Etis shows a new outstanding field service action for my 2/12 build SEL and my wife's 9/11 build SE:
"12B37 - , AND THE ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM (ABS) MODULE"
A search of FF turned up nothing for 12B37 and neither did a search of the web. I assume this is a new one as it wasn't showing on either vehicle the other day. It also doesn't show as a recall on the Ford Owners site.
Service called today and stated they had applied a later calibration than the one that was applied when 12B37 was done. Believe this is just an update to 12b37 instead of a completely new flash. The surprise was that the rattle I asked then to check out seems to be the struts or front coil springs. Said they were ordering parts and hopefully this will take care of front end noise. I believe the service department is really trying to resolve my complaints with our Focus as they have with other vehicles I have purchased from them for over 25 years, so a tip of the hat to my dealer for the extra effort they are giving. Hopefully by Friday the parts will be in and installed and then we can give the transmission a try and see if this gets us back to the way the car behaved before the 12B37 update which my wife and i were happy with.
I've got about 800 miles on mine since the last DCT flash. I really like the throttle response, but I'm still getting the occasional hard shift and if the AC is on, the clutches slip or something when you start from stop.
Anyone know how many miles the adaptive drive cycle procedure is supposed to take? There were only 2 miles added to my odometer after I picked it up.
I'm about ready to say my transmission has once again, reverted (which I don't think is even technically possible), back to pre-update behavior. I swear to god, it's almost like these software flashes has timers on them, and then it's like
'oh, times up, lets use the old software again and give really crappy tranny performance".
I still see my clutch slipping too....or where the car floats in neutral for too long before deciding to engage the gear and actually propel me while my foot is on the gas.
Well, I've never really had problems with my transmission until a recent road trip. On the way down I had a situation where the car next to me wanted to let me pass, then didn't, then did, so I was a little on the brakes, then gas, then brakes, then punched it from a roll at ~15MPH (got sick of the guy changing his mind) and I revved up to about 5k RPMs and the car never grabbed...It just spun up and slipped the clutch a lot through a painfully slow acceleration. Fine, whatever...Went on about my day.
On the way back I was stuck in HORRIBLE traffic. The traffic wanted to go 8MPH, but the car wanted to go 3MPH or 15MPH. Oh, how I learned to hate slow speeds... There were a few times where I would gently press on the gas and the RPMs would just float right on up to 2-2.5k and the car wouldn't do anything. After I let the RPMs return to idle the clutch would grab, but damn.
I really wish if the car were in sport mode it would just grab hard and go when you put your foot on the gas, no matter the speed. [strongman]
I should probably mention that my last car I modified the transmission for hard shifts. I got used to it, so every time my Focus does it I just grin and get a little giddy. It will usually shift nice and hard if the RPMs are 3.5k+ and I am in Sport mode.
I just posted in the other thread, but I might as well post here as well.
Today my car all of a sudden started having shift problems from 1st to 2nd gear and it didn't matter if it was in sport or drive mode. This was after getting my car flashed a few weeks ago. After the flash, it drove like a champ. It was only today that the problems started again and i think it was worse off than before. I noticed that it would shudder in first gear at around 1500-2000 rpm as if it wanted to shift, but the engine was revving too high (like a slipping clutch)
I would bring it in, but the problem is my schedule is full for the whole of next week. Should I even chance a long drive?
I tried disconnecting and them reconnecting the battery and try the adaptive learning process again following the instructions in the other thread. The shudder isn't so bad now, but it's still there.
From my experience, disconnecting the battery is not a good option and should be used as the last resort. If you experience shudder, I would recommend to:
- try to drive the car a bit "harder" and see what happens (maybe your clutch system isn't "broke in" evenly and what you get is because of this)
- if the shudder is not gone in some 500 km of driving, get it to the dealer
In your situation, I would suggest you to drive your car a bit harder, don't stay on the same rpms more than 5 minutes, play with D and S modes to let it "learn" all the rpms specter and do this for at least 1000 km.
I had the recall done at 1600 miles, and I'm now at 5900 miles, and I had a big problem this weekend.
It was generally pretty downpoury and I was stuck in traffic for an hour and a half trying to get from my workplace into the city. I didn't cross any puddles more than a few inches deep, but the rain may or may not be an important factor.
After a ~10m stop, I began to drive again, and my car would not shift out of first gear if I tried to accelerate quickly. It would red-line but refuse to go. If I accelerated slowly (egg-shell throttle), it would figure out when to shift sometimes.
Because I was travelling with a group at the time, we were able to combine resources and leave my car close to where it died for a few days. When I got back to limp it to the dealership (four days later), everything was acting fine!
I have an appointment with the dealership tomorrow, so hopefully they'll be able to find *something*, but I'm kind of doubting it at this point. I really don't want to try to deal with a car, knowing that my transmission may refuse to work at any random point in time. One of the reasons why I bought a new car (as opposed to used) was so I *wouldn't* have to worry about stuff like this!
Anybody have any ideas? If the dealership can't find anything I'd like to steer them in the right direction, at least.
Well, they couldn't find anything. They can't reproduce the problem, but it seems to me like all they've done is drive it 10 miles and check the codes, as well as apply a new calibration to the software.
I'm paying a lot of money for this car and one reason why I sprung for a new car is that I do not want to have to worry about random extreme failures. The fact that I do is very disappointing.
Update:
Had the transmission re-flashed to the newest calibration. Must say a big improvement from where it was when I took it in. Idle seems to be smoother, shifts from 5-6 seems to be a little higher maybe 40-42 instead of around 38. Now when I let off throttle when slowing for traffic light I can actually feel it down shifting, before could not feel that. Not even sure i was dropping back to 1st when stopped the way it was chugging and trying to stall. If it will just stay this way without reverting back to bad habits I will be a happy camper! Also had the rattle in front end checked and the current TSB was applied with new springs, strut bearings, and mounting bolts and nuts replaced. So far no clunks or rattles. Wish me luck. Right now,I have the Focus back that I enjoyed before the 12B37 update. If I can just convince it to stay at it's current behavior then my wife and I will be happy.
Sometimes it does, even going up a small incline, which is quite fine with me as it emulates a traditionnal auto tranny. Sometimes it does not...I let go of the accelerator when the car sit still and nothing. Then you press the gaz pedal, and press, and press, hoping to get some kind of reaction from the car and nada...until it jumps forward like real quick and loudly. Not fun at all.
I will also say that since FSA 12B37, the hill holding feature works perfectly. It does what it's meant to do and I have nothing to say about it.
I swear to God, I feel it's like some kind of bad communication between the action of pressing the gaz pedal and the engine reacting accordingly. Can't wait for the Ford Techs to put their collective fingers on that bad line of coding and correct this ackward car behavior.
I ask because the throttle lag on the stock filter is horrendous. I have inatalled my drop-in in other friends' cars to show them, along with letting them drive mine for comparisons. Maybe it would be something to look into.
Nope, I have a stock SEL W/O any kind of modification made to the car. Call me chicken, but with all the issues I have, I'm not too crazy about modding the car. I tend to think that the more bends you add to the plumbing line, the easier it is to clog it
Do you think a K&N drop in filter will help ? With the cover back on ? Just changing the filter ?
It will not fix the 90° turn problem (my car is the same, I use S+ instead), but it will definitely help in the stop and go. The 90° issue is a transmission issue, and some have claimed that their car eventually ' learned' it. Mine is not one of them, but maybe because I S+ it. Idk.
I understand your perspective on mods and I don't blame you. All I'm talking about is the filter swap, lid on, nothing else. You won't see power gains, but the throttle tip-in will be normal. You may even get a fractional mpg bonus, but don't overly bank on it.
A forum member, who happens to be a neighbor, also told me to drop a K&N filter in. I may do it but I'll have to first sacrifice a goat to the Focus God to make sure I wont get banned from driving heaven and fight for the next 6 years in dealership hell.
K&N has a solid waranty, and if your dealership ever tries to give you grief there is a card supplied by K&N that has a phone number to their reps. All you do is call the number, give the rep a brief description, then hand the phone to the service rep.
I think it's described on their website...check it out.
I must say you got my attention now on the K&N Drop in filter. I have the exact same complaints as most of you as of Day one of getting my 12b37 update. The prior update I thought was spot on except for the 90 degree turn fall on FACE scenario. I was hoping the 12b37 update would retain the shifting characteristics I already had but improve the 90 degree turn but WOW its like I went back to having NO updates now. Freaking blows!. Feels like the car just shifts way to soon and never hits that sweet torque spot anymore unless you floor it everywhere. Countless times I've had the issue where the RPM's just seem to climb to a spot and just float there briefly and stop accelerating and then suddenly start pulling again.
If the K&N helps with some of the sluggishness of the throttle I'm all for it. Is there a place you can purchase these? I suspect online only right? Doubt local automotive stores would stock them.
P.S. I took my car in for service and complained about the above and the Tech drove it and reported that it drove just like any other typical Focus with DCT and that I need to give the adaptive learning time.
The K&N definitely helps with the sluggishness. If you were closer I would let you try it out as I have for a few of the local people that I know. As for buying it, it can be purchased at Autozone and maybe others (Filter E-2993) but can be found for less if you purchase it online. I want to say that I saw it under $40 on Amazon back in the day, though is it listing at $42.60 currently.
Like I said earlier, my car still tends to have confusion on some 90 degree turns. While some others have said that their car 'learned' it, some say theirs hasn't, and I just got used to using the rocker.[thumb]
That's excellent reading BTW. I saw this some time ago in another thread. The real question I have is: As a Canadian resident, am I protected by a similar Canadian act of some sort ? As I understand Mr Roger's position, it only reffers to US residents.
As stated here, K&N should backup ANY customers, whether they are in US or abroad. If I read wrong, then Mr Rogers should change the pledge to refer only to US citizens/customers.
The 2012 ford focus in my opinion is a junker.I am so sorry Ive bought this car. I just got my letter to the effect of the rest of you. I told them this when I had the car for two days." you will get used to it , I was told. bullhookey. Last ford I will ever drive. you Lost another customer ford. Its a sad day when hyundai and kia blow away a ford car. Finally ford has psuedo addressed these problems. But its too little and way too late for me. I hate this car. Its too unpredictable and is a nuisance to drive. I wished it was "poof" gone. I will trade it in when I can afford it. And this time im going foriegn! Thank you ford motor company , You have destroyed any faith a whole lot of people had in you. You coulD always do what you do best.
BURY YOUR HEADS IN THE SAND!
And I think the Focus has a wee bit better safety rating...
After 12B37, mine has been a total joy to drive. I'm sorry your experience hasn't been as great... I like my 2012 Focus more than my 2009 one and I really liked my 2009 one, but if I hadn't bought ABS and traction control at that time then I wouldn't have gotten the 2012 model. Pros and cons in both actions or inactions... it's better to regret doing something than not. Or that's what the song claims, but even Shakespeare said it's better to love and lose... but who said he wrote that...
I am sorry for your experience, but I would like to say that frustration is not doing any good to anyone, so you better bring the "fight" to your dealer shop than here. Go over there, state your problems and make them fix your car. If they can't, get it to another Ford shop (I speak from personal experience) and escalate to Ford. If you don't like something because it is not working as you expect it to work, well, you have two options:
1. - Get it to the garbage dump.
2. - Fight to get it work as it's expected. Sometimes it is not as you expect, but this is why you should test-drive a car BEFORE buying it.
For what it's worth!. My past few vehicles have been Imports. Just for the sake of perspective those vehicles even though they're imports still had issues and I can't tell you how many times a TSB would come out to address a problem I was specifically having with my vehicle and I'd have to fight the damn dealership tooth and nail to get them to acknowledge it and perform the work. They'd always say. Sorry we can't duplicate the issue or We don't feel this FIX addresses your vehicle and that I can call Corp to dispute it.
I have not had that AT ALL with my Local Ford Dealerhship. If I find a TSB pending for my vehicle they never question it and setup the appointment right away. I have been very satisfied with the Customer service I've gotten.
Also you won't see the Toyota or Nissan Customer Service reps surfing User forums trying to help customers either.
Ford scores HUGE brownie points for surfing forums as such. That is an AWESOME form of customer care; paying attention and extending a hand to do what they can.
The Ford dealer I go to has ALWAYS been helpful, and their mechanics know the equipment they work on. And are honest upfront. If I had the money I'd trade up every year, but then I'd be missing the previous car as well... I love my 2012 model, but miss the 2009 in some ways. Mostly nostalgia; the 2012 drives so much nicer, has better handling, and is far less likely to spin out on me come winter with the obligatory icy roads...
And, as a former Toyota owner, I was less than impressed with their local dealer as well. Left with more problems than I came in with, and with the bonus of a broken windshield fluid reservoir and those things don't break on their own or on accident, and I've driven enough cars in life to know that... and just how junky the Corolla was (oil dripped by 75k, transmission starting to drip by 85k). With their recent brake issues, Prius batteries, etc, I'd be less inclined to go back...
I am sorry for your experience, but I would like to say that frustration is not doing any good to anyone, so you better bring the "fight" to your dealer shop than here. Go over there, state your problems and make them fix your car. If they can't, get it to another Ford shop (I speak from personal experience) and escalate to Ford. If you don't like something because it is not working as you expect it to work, well, you have two options:
1. - Get it to the garbage dump.
2. - Fight to get it work as it's expected. Sometimes it is not as you expect, but this is why you should test-drive a car BEFORE buying it.
I am sorry for your experience, but I would like to say that frustration is not doing any good to anyone, so you better bring the "fight" to your dealer shop than here. Go over there, state your problems and make them fix your car. If they can't, get it to another Ford shop (I speak from personal experience) and escalate to Ford. If you don't like something because it is not working as you expect it to work, well, you have two options:
1. - Get it to the garbage hole.
2. - Fight to get it work as it's expected. Sometimes it is not as you expect, but this is why you should test-drive a car BEFORE buying it.
Took the fight to the dealer and to Ford corporate, submitted for service 10 times so far to 2 different dealerships, not fixed yet. As for the test drive, test drove the crap out of it, and the DCT issues didn't crop up until 900 miles on the clock, 400 miles after the "return it if you don't like it" from my dealership. So now what? Not sure I can make a lemon law claim stick, still paying for it every month, still drives like crap. And they haven't replaced a single part to boot! Reprogram after reprogram that isn't working to fix the issue.
In short, those ways you options you gave to escape this issue don't always work, and may even not work >50% of the time.
For what it's worth!. My past few vehicles have been Imports. Just for the sake of perspective those vehicles even though they're imports still had issues and I can't tell you how many times a TSB would come out to address a problem I was specifically having with my vehicle and I'd have to fight the damn dealership tooth and nail to get them to acknowledge it and perform the work. They'd always say. Sorry we can't duplicate the issue or We don't feel this FIX addresses your vehicle and that I can call Corp to dispute it.
I have not had that AT ALL with my Local Ford Dealerhship. If I find a TSB pending for my vehicle they never question it and setup the appointment right away. I have been very satisfied with the Customer service I've gotten.
Also you won't see the Toyota or Nissan Customer Service reps surfing User forums trying to help customers either.
I think there is enough data to suggest that the latest update, which improved drivability for most, came at the expense of city driving mpg. That is, the update, which appears to have made the car "feel" more like at traditional automatic, made that change at the expense of city mpg -- highway mpg appears to be unaffected, or nearly so, but city mileage has declined.
What I would love for Ford to do but highly doubt they will do it is provide a menu option to select for either a smoother, more slush box feel or improved city mileage. That way, the user can chose how they want the car to feel and perform.
Even better would be a three position menu with: economy, smooth/normal, and performance. Then, depending on which option you chose, the shift points and other parameters would be adjusted for the selected driving style. They could default to smooth/normal and then leave it to the driver to change it so that for the 65% of drivers that will never change it the car will be in the default smooth/normal mode...
What you said might also explain my drop in MPG (about 2MPG lower), but the last couple of months have had me doing far more city driving than freeway as well... still, the more responsive feel of 12B37 compared to higher MPG with the tradeoff of a rougher feel, I'd be inclined to live with the lower MPG, I hate to admit it...
I can tell you're not very happy with the car. But what exactly is the problem? If it's general "buyer's remorse", there's not much to be done. If it's a problem that can be described though, who knows?
It's not gonna get better by wishing it away. As others have said, the rational thing to do is work with Ford to solve the problem. If you can describe an actual problem, that is.
I can do that.
1. jerky shifts
2. unpredictable acceleration.
3. roll back on slight inclines. but I can live with that!
4. check engine light is on.
5. mash the go pedal and its in a coma.
6. coming up the hill to my house it shifts to a high gear lugging the motor.
7.then its a stallion out of control. It drives me I dont drive it. Could it be alive? with its own mind/?, Fix it and Ill be good.
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