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MK3 2012 Focus - Oil Change 101

446K views 1K replies 216 participants last post by  RedFocusSEGuy 
#1 · (Edited)
Just did my first oil change on the 2012 Focus. Thought I'd help those who haven't done it yet.

What you'll need: 15mm wrench, T30 torx, 1.25 gallons of 5W-20 Oil, Oil Filter ( FL-910S )




Raise the car. I used a floor jack at the front driver jack point (see manual), then braced with a jack stand to prevent getting killed. I think ramps would be easier.


Remove the felt panel by removing the 8 torx bolts. If you remove the bolt shown at the red arrow last (front center of car), the panel will stay up nicely. Supported by the notches shown with the yellow arrows.
Don't bother considering cutting a hole in the felt panel to get access to the oil filter. You'll need to remove the panel to get to the drain plug anyway. It comes off easy enough.




Change the oil filter and drain the oil. I didn't need an oil filter wrench because the oil filter is VERY accessible and could grab it with two hands. When replacing the filter, wet the rubber gasket on the new filter with oil, wipe away any dirt on the gasket surface of the engine and screw the new filter in until it touches the gasket surface. THEN screw by hand 3/4 of a turn more. Don't forget to put the drain plug back in (20 ft/lbs per Ford shop manual - Oil pan drain plug/Part# 6730/ Torque 27 Nm (20 lb-ft)).




Put 4 quarts of oil in, start the engine and check for leaks. Do this before lowering the car. 4 quarts will fill it enough to measure halfway between the two holes on the dipstick. If you want to avoid some of the start-up clatter, crank the engine for a few seconds with the accelerator floored. Gas is shut off when you do this but the oil pump should fill the filter. After making sure you have no leaks, replace the felt panel, lower the car and top off the oil. Mine took exactly 4.5 quarts to reach the top of the hash marks on the dipstick.



Resetting the oil life monitoring system
1. Turn the ignition key to the on position. Do not start the engine.
For vehicles with push-button start, press and hold the START/STOP
button for two seconds without pressing the brake pedal. Do not attempt
to start the engine.
2. Press both the accelerator and brake pedals at the same time.
3. Keep both pedals fully pressed.
4. After three seconds, the Service: Oil reset in prog. message will be
displayed.
5. After 25 seconds, the Service: Oil reset complete message will be
displayed.
6. Release both the accelerator and brake pedals.
7. The Service: Oil reset complete message will no longer be
displayed.
8. Rotate the key to the off position.
For vehicles with push-button start, press the START/STOP button to
turn the vehicle off completely.

As of 2/20/2012...
5qts. Motorcraft 5w-20 Synthetic Blend - 21.99
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_5W-20-Synthetic-Blend-Motor-Oil-Motorcraft_8030012-P_N3291M_T|GRP2046_____
18.33 at Walmart
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Motorcraft-Synthetic-Blend-Motor-Oil-5W20-5qt/16940217

5qts. Mobil1 5W-20 Synthetic - 36.99
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_5W-20-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-%285-Plus-Quarts-Jug%29-Mobil1_10069913-P_N4019G_T|GRP2046_____

FL-910S oil filter - 3.97 at Walmart
 
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#305 ·
The engine oil that is first put in your car from the factory is called break in oil. It contains additives and micro particles to help smooth off rough edges in your engine.
FOR THIS REASON YOU SHOULD KEEP THE OIL IN YOUR CAR FOR 5,000 MILES, and only 5,000 miles.
The next changes you can use synthetic, and spread out the oil changes to every 8,000 miles.
Smaller engines like compressors require oil changes after 5 hrs, for the same reason
 
#311 ·
Had the oil changed today at 461, I was at the dealership for a mud guard install, it was $19.95 extra and I got my first good look under the car, that alone was worth it to me. No leaks and no large particles in the oil that I could see. I listened closely to the initial start up and couldn't hear anything strange but I was in the garage so I may have missed it. My Olds Acheiva used to make a hell of a racket after an oil change.

I plan on doing the Amsoil By-Pass install as soon as funds allow, hopefully around 1000 miles.
 
#313 ·
I'm considering getting one of these Accusump accumulators/primers as well as doing a catch-can, and mechanical oil pressure+temp gauge install. Someone from an Audi forum turned me onto the Accusump, as a means to prevent as much start-up wear as possible.

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=2410

I'd have to figure out what bits are needed exactly to patch it into the Focus' system.
 
#315 ·
Build with what? It's not like we have cams, throttle bodies, inlet, injectors, pumps, or any of that stuff for the Mk. III. I throw on a header and flex pipe with what I have now, and I'll be maxed. :( $280+ some odds and ends for an accumulator doesn't sound like a bad investment to me.
 
#326 ·
We had our first Oil change at the Dealer at 3000 , next change due at 8000

it has 7100 on it and the change oil monitor came on today, ?

is it possible they did not reset it at first change ?
 
#327 ·
They must not have reset it. I change at 7500 (DIY) and I've never had the light come on. What kind of driving do you do? I think a lot of stop start and cold running will influence the monitor, but still.

BTW, it's a easy reset. Just turn the key on and press the brake and accelerator to the floor and hold them down until the reset indicator shows up on the screen by the speedo.
 
#329 ·
Amsoil 'Dual Remote Oil Bypass' Install

Mod Note: Looked over the Forum for too long, did not find a more suitable thread for this. Please move wherever you think it may belong as long as I can find/access it again - This was not intended as Mod. bait. I honestly want the best place for it.

A sense of humor is required to read the rest, if you find your nasty, snide remarks being responded to in this Forum with 'sorry' or 'no offence intended' on the leading lines then please exit now.

Amsoil 'Dual Remote Oil Bypass' Install -
Got home from work, second shift, Kit has arrived[clap]
Opened all boxes and looked at all parts (Cool)
I got the kit, filters, oil (2 Gal. SS 5W-20) and sampling pump
Damn, the sampling pump bottle is "Sold Separately" !&$@, the thing can't be used without one, why wasn't at least ONE included, sigh, add to list. Use tubing only once, sigh, add to list, Smile-some included!
OK, got parts, now the install:

Mounting Bracket - beats me, got a PM sent to UnleashedBeast... When he gets done with those worthless time wasters like family, job, porn and having time for his own ride he may just condescend to answer a poor newbies question, sigh, other peoples priorities just leave me waiting, waiting...

Whining complete for the moment. Next, the really interesting 'questions':
!!!OPINIONS WELCOME!!!

Some like it 0W-20 in cold weather, why? (I did read the corvette post about viscosity and temperature, just so know - do you live in Canada?)

Seems like 5W-20 is the G spot for rated Viscosity on our engines. All opinions welcome, I like a good rant now and then.

Some like it 10W-30 is it just because you want it that way?

Some like it 20W-50 Vroom vroom, racing anyone?

Filtration Standards: This is intended to be more techy but crack pots are welcome also:
I haven't seen it raised recently (I have at least 40 hours in this Forum now and the search feature is a bummer to use, it returns thousands of threads and posts which I am sure the old farts remember when clued in but those of us who have NEW vehicles just want to find)
I want OPINIONS. And Facts, if available:

Standard filters are about 25 Microns 'relative'. Note, Relative is in quotes.

Is there any benefit in filtering engine oil to below this level?
Disclosure: I have the above mentioned By-Pass kit, my views are known so please don't accuse me of being biased, that point is already proven

Does anyone have any thorns concerning levels (of whatever) that are acceptable/not acceptable?

Who is your favorite oil analysis firm? This I really want/need to know soon

More questions forthcoming when my eyes can Focus...

Think up your own questions, post here as far as I know
 
#334 ·
... the search feature is a bummer to use, it returns thousands of threads and posts which I am sure the old farts remember when clued in but those of us who have NEW vehicles just want to find ...
Try this in the Google search window:

"PandT" "MK3 Focus" site:focusfanatics.com

Replace "PandT" with whatever term you want to search for, like "AMSoil", or "oil filtration", etc.

The more specific your search phrase is, the fewer hits -- sometimes as low as zero, since variations of the text that is contained in quotes don't match. You can replace "MK3 Focus" with anything that will limit the search to some area of this site you are interested in. (See the path for this thread at the top of this page: "Focus Fanatics > Model Specific Discussions > MK3 Focus [cr][lf] MK3 2012 Focus - Oil Change 101"), or add other phrases to narrow the search. Works fine for any other sites, too. Probably my second favorite feature of Google, after Maps.
 
#342 ·
Not to knock DIY'rs. But for another $10 you could get The Works package and get a tire rotation and multipoint inspection. They are usually 39.99, but have coupons out all the time for a discount, like $10 off this month. And they use synthetic blend oil, which will get you up to another 10k miles. Plus all you gotta do is sit and wait for about an hour tops.
 
#343 ·
My counter argument to this is DIY gives you a chance to get under the car every so often and check for leaks, check suspension, tears in any boots, etc. Then you can take care of things before they become serious problems.
 
#352 ·
There is no best answer. The owners guide says up to 10,000 miles or 1 year if the intelligent oil life monitor doesn't indicate sooner. Most people here are either early changers (before 2000 miles the first time), or the rest are a mix of 5-7500-10,000 miles on the semi synthetic factory fill. Others use full synthetic for longer drain intervals afterwards.
 
#354 ·
My wife's hatch at over 6,000 miles oil looks clear, feels fine, smells fine. I'm going with the factory 10,000 or smart oil monitor.
 
#361 ·
Do you have an abnormally taxing commute or use Dino oil???

5000 is more than adequate unless you're racing or stuck in traffic 90% of the time.
 
#363 ·
My change oil indicator finally came on at 10,250 miles. With only 4.5 quarts in the sump and the assumption that we are using Motorcraft 5W-20, that's a major feat.

New UOA is on the horizon with Amsoil 5W-20. Only ~500 more miles to go for a true 10,000 mile UOA.
 
#365 ·
I Plan on just following the book...7,500 to 10,000K when the minder says do it. I plan on just using Ford oil and filters. I have free changes and rotations at the dealer for 7 years which is fine by me....just have to say "no" to all the crap they try to sell you that you don't need while you are there. I used to like to do it myself but my time has gotten more valuable lately. My Jetta has 215k with those kind of intervals using mostly Mobil 1 and still runs strong. Your car will fall apart before the motor due to these small bickerings about oil change interval or oil type.
 
#366 ·
Plan on just following the book...7,500 to 10,000 when the minder says do it. Plan on just using Ford oil and filters. I have free changes and rotation at the dealer for 7 years which is fine by me....just have to say "no" to all the crap they try to sell you that you don't need while you are there. I used to like to do it myself but my time has gotten more valuable lately. My Jetta has 215k with those kind of intervals using mostly Mobil 1 and still runs strong. Your car will fall apart before the motor due to these small bickerings about oil change interval or oil type.
Some of the best oil change advice I've seen around here.
 
#368 ·
Anyone can buy it at dealer cost by signing up as a preferred customer. No need to hassle with a dealer and paying their markup on the product.

Preferred Customer

Add that link to your cart (with the products you want to buy), on the last check out screen, all prices will reduce 25%. Then you can log into their site and buy anything you want up to 1 year at cost. What a deal.
 
#370 ·
Oil fanatics (hmm, wouldn't be cool if we actually -had- an oil fanatics subforum?) Have any of you done the catch-can or sample test valve install and have an install thread for it with pics, part #s, etc?
 
#371 ·
I have all the parts for the bypass but fabing a bracket is driving me crazy, just can't seem to find the time and make a decision on how to support it. It's actually installed but not plumbed, I still have a Motorcraft fill in it and 4.5 gals of Amsoil 5w-20 sitting in the basement. Wifes Saturn Vue has Amsoil oil and filter installed. Payed dealership $6.xx to change it.

Looked at the catch can but haven't decided if it's worth the trouble to install it, I'm thinking not but I'll await the high mileage crowd to take pictures of their intake valves. It's a lot of work accessing the PCV system on this buggy.

I love the oil rants, a sub-forum would be my second home. [poke]
 
#372 ·
You have to drill a hole through the upper black plastic. Remove one of those "air vents" that allows access to the internal area. On the top left of this picture, you see what looks like an air vent. Remove the vent, hand bend a bracket to contour and work, drill the hole in the right place. etc...

 
#373 ·
You have to drill a hole through the upper black plastic. Remove one of those "air vents" that allows access to the internal area. On the top left of this picture, you see what looks like an air vent. Remove the vent, hand bend a bracket to contour and work, drill the hole in the right place. etc...
Snip picture, I hate it when people quote pictures in replies, pet peeve...

So... You are supporting it from the plastic cover? I assume you removed the felt pad like thing (Sound dampener?) to do this?

(EDIT - I tried to remove the line breaks, even using notepad to strip it of crud but no joy, sorry)
I did look in the air vent (cover removed) but from what I remember, it was right over the front strut tower bracing bar and I was actually considering drilling into that but I hope to have some time this weekend (Three days off [cheers] ) to really make a decision as to how I should brace it and finish the install. The hoses have one end already assembled and I have drilled and installed a steel (all I could find at work) AN fitting in the adapter to drain the oil from the filter assembly since it sits so high up (engine and hoses really).

One downside, upon tapping the adapter (1/8" Pipe), I hit a void/contamination spot, part of the thread is ruined (Missing) but luckily it is not in a sealing part of the thread, I checked. I also went over the entire unit looking for more of the same and I found nothing visible. It kind of scared me at first, cheap recycled aluminum has much more voids and contamination than virgin stock but virgin is SO much more expensive to get that almost all suppliers use some percentage of recycled material in their supply chain. Still, when I began, I used a smaller size than I wanted with the intention of upgrading later and drilling a bigger hole. I hate pipe threads even when sealed.

I ordered some Loctite 545 before I even got the kit and I was really surprised that it came with some (.5 ml) but not enough (need 1 ml), of the same stuff ($$$). I was impressed with the quality of the kit, the fittings appear to be 3K PSI rated AN fittings but of course the hoses (Parker, Name Brand) would never take that; still, quality stuff (Love the SAE O-Ring face seals, the best that are currently available for this type of application).

I was even more surprised to find that the filters are in parallel so that the only pressure the bypass will ever see is the back pressure from the full flow filter and the bypass has a brass restrictor insert to further limit flow. I guess I was expecting a pressure reducing regulator spring setup but simpler is always better and I expect it to work just fine this way and there is no spring to fade or break. The down side is that the bypass will clog up sooner since it's supply is not being pre-filtered by the full flow (EaO 34) filter which I don't expect to be an issue, the thing is huge for a modern two liter gas engine. The upside is that it will (to some small degree) further reduce total filter back pressure (February cold starts in MA).

Can you tell that I REALLY Love oil threads [wiggle]
 
#375 ·
Here are better pictures of how I did it.

I removed the vent cover to drill a hole.


Hand bent this metal material for front support of the bypass filter mount.


another angle


In this picture, you can see that the primary "gold" mount on the rear was attached to a flat area in the back of the engine bay.


It's a very solid mounting point. These pictures were taken today, 11,000 miles after installation with the same oil and filters. I am shooting for 20,000 miles before having to change it.
 
#377 ·
I just wanted to say thank you for this post. I just purchased a 2013 Focus Hatchback last week and just changed my break in oil at 1160 mi. It saved me a lot of time since I did not know there was a belly pan and armed with this info I was able to acquire the proper tools ahead of time. This forum also enlightened me to the practice of changing the break-in oil, I was very surprised at how dirty the oil was at this mileage. BTW I am loving this site and loving my car!
 
#380 ·
Being a past Redline oil dealer using 700 plus hp 4.6 mustang engines......Most people don't realize that with synthetic oil you can get up to the 18k to 22k miles on the oil before you have to replace it.......You just have to change the filter every 3 to 5 k ..........I hate to see people waste money when they don't have to..........
 
#393 ·
How is the Motorcraft full syn vs. their syn-blend? Is it decent oil?
 
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