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MK3 2012 Focus - Oil Change 101

446K views 1K replies 216 participants last post by  RedFocusSEGuy 
#1 · (Edited)
Just did my first oil change on the 2012 Focus. Thought I'd help those who haven't done it yet.

What you'll need: 15mm wrench, T30 torx, 1.25 gallons of 5W-20 Oil, Oil Filter ( FL-910S )




Raise the car. I used a floor jack at the front driver jack point (see manual), then braced with a jack stand to prevent getting killed. I think ramps would be easier.


Remove the felt panel by removing the 8 torx bolts. If you remove the bolt shown at the red arrow last (front center of car), the panel will stay up nicely. Supported by the notches shown with the yellow arrows.
Don't bother considering cutting a hole in the felt panel to get access to the oil filter. You'll need to remove the panel to get to the drain plug anyway. It comes off easy enough.




Change the oil filter and drain the oil. I didn't need an oil filter wrench because the oil filter is VERY accessible and could grab it with two hands. When replacing the filter, wet the rubber gasket on the new filter with oil, wipe away any dirt on the gasket surface of the engine and screw the new filter in until it touches the gasket surface. THEN screw by hand 3/4 of a turn more. Don't forget to put the drain plug back in (20 ft/lbs per Ford shop manual - Oil pan drain plug/Part# 6730/ Torque 27 Nm (20 lb-ft)).




Put 4 quarts of oil in, start the engine and check for leaks. Do this before lowering the car. 4 quarts will fill it enough to measure halfway between the two holes on the dipstick. If you want to avoid some of the start-up clatter, crank the engine for a few seconds with the accelerator floored. Gas is shut off when you do this but the oil pump should fill the filter. After making sure you have no leaks, replace the felt panel, lower the car and top off the oil. Mine took exactly 4.5 quarts to reach the top of the hash marks on the dipstick.



Resetting the oil life monitoring system
1. Turn the ignition key to the on position. Do not start the engine.
For vehicles with push-button start, press and hold the START/STOP
button for two seconds without pressing the brake pedal. Do not attempt
to start the engine.
2. Press both the accelerator and brake pedals at the same time.
3. Keep both pedals fully pressed.
4. After three seconds, the Service: Oil reset in prog. message will be
displayed.
5. After 25 seconds, the Service: Oil reset complete message will be
displayed.
6. Release both the accelerator and brake pedals.
7. The Service: Oil reset complete message will no longer be
displayed.
8. Rotate the key to the off position.
For vehicles with push-button start, press the START/STOP button to
turn the vehicle off completely.

As of 2/20/2012...
5qts. Motorcraft 5w-20 Synthetic Blend - 21.99
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_5W-20-Synthetic-Blend-Motor-Oil-Motorcraft_8030012-P_N3291M_T|GRP2046_____
18.33 at Walmart
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Motorcraft-Synthetic-Blend-Motor-Oil-5W20-5qt/16940217

5qts. Mobil1 5W-20 Synthetic - 36.99
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_5W-20-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-%285-Plus-Quarts-Jug%29-Mobil1_10069913-P_N4019G_T|GRP2046_____

FL-910S oil filter - 3.97 at Walmart
 
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#146 ·
I live in moderate temperatures, so no extremes. I guess my real question would be is it OK if I'm going to use conventional oil and not the Motocraft Synthetic Blend or full synthetic. My odometer is still reading 755 kms. Should I just bring it to the dealership and do a full synthetic?
 
#147 ·
I wouldn't recommend using conventional oil in this engine unless you're planning on changing it every 3000 miles or less, even the motorcraft semi-synthetic 5w20 is generally considered better than this, but if you want to use conventional oil make sure it meets the requirements listed by Ford, or any issues you have with the engine due to oiling won't be covered by the warranty.
 
#150 ·
I think the only time I would ever drop to Dino oil was if the car was a dedicated racer and I was changing it between every event and was running a single weight.
 
#155 ·
I wouldn't even use it then.

Petroleum based lubricants have a higher frictional coefficient. Translation, higher fiction means less power, less efficiency, and higher engine temperatures. Racers have seen engine coolant temps decrease as much as 15*F from stepping up to true synthetic racing lubricants. They also see far less wear on the mains and rod bearings on engine tear downs.
 
#163 ·
I just had my oil done at Blackstone and after 6,000 miles on regular Castrol 5-20 (semi-synth) they said it would have gone more. They said I would be good to follow the OLM. I used Mobile 1 at the change and I'm going to run it till it tells me to change. At 6k I was down a little between the hash marks but not enough to add some. I'm old school on oil changes so it might be a challenge waiting for the monitor to come on.
 
#164 ·
guys, quick question, anyone here having problems closing their hood? Mine opens up fine, but when I lower the hood so that it touches the latch and try to push it down it doesn't close, or when I try to slam it down. I go inside the card, move the lever as if I am opening the hood and I slam in again in one single motion and the hood closes. Any feedback?
 
#165 ·
I have to slam mine. Being gentle with it, allowing it to lay in the latch, then pushing it down.....that never works. I have to drop it hard.
 
#172 ·
In high performance Ford modular engines, where modification is common to increase horsepower, I always encourage owners to increase to true synthetic 30 grade lubricant.

In the Focus, I'm not as concerned since this is a grocery getter daily driver that rarely ever sees wide open throttle. Currently, I am using Amsoil Signature Series 5W-20. Next time I plan to try Amsoil AZO 0W-30, just for comparison sake. Since I track all mpg on www.fuelly.com, there should be a lot of comparisons to be made between performance, efficiency, lubricant status by UOA at the end of the sessions, and overall sound/feel/experience.

There is only a 1.5 cSt difference between both lubricants. In lubricant world, that isn't much.

If I were using a small engine like this on a road course, it would have Amsoil ATM 10W-30 in it.
 
#179 ·
I agree with dan50....would definitely recommend a UOA test to confirm conventional ability to survive a 10,000 mile oil change interval.

I would love to see that test, however....the test would cost about the same as a full conventional oil change. Other than for scientific purposes, it's not really worth it.
 
#194 ·
Same for me - went to a place back in '92 that changed the oil in my F-150 in a "jiffy". Friend drove it to the mall to pick up a couch and called saying it was making weird noises - she drove it back to my house.

The weird noises was a rod that spun a bearing, most likely due to no oil in engine. Turns out the filter was not tighten - and with only gauges and no idiot lights for oil pressure, she never looked at the gauges.

They offered me $200 towards the repair - "Prorated" as the truck was a '78 with 150K on it. Never a problem with it until THAT oil change.[bigcry]
 
#190 ·
Depending on which side the oil pressure sensor is on. A restrictive oil filter can cause different results.

Sensor before the filter - pressure will rise due to restriction

Sensor after the filter - pressure will fall due to restriction

This is why I love nano fiber synthetic media. It's able to filter the best, yet still flow the best. It's rare when a single product can give you the best of both worlds.
 
#196 ·
Yes; turn the key on but not engine. Close all doors so no warning box on instrument dash. Press both brake and gas pedal for a really long time. Even if you think something is wrong keep holding the pedals. Eventually it will say it is reset. Forget the exact dialogue, but do remember it taking a long time to reset.
 
#200 ·
Hey guys,

I have been changing my oil on every car I have ever owned, as well as many friends cars... but apparently tonight is not my night.

I changed the oil in my focus for the first time tonight and the original instructions really helped. I got everything put back together and the car back on the ground. I put about 4 Qt into the car and ran it for a few minutes. I checked the dipstick and the oil was just at the bottom of the stick.

This is where i get confused. I added some more oil to top it up (probably half a Qt) and, after letting it sit for a minute, checked the dipstick. The oil was about half way up the length of the dipstick... [facepalm]

After walking around for a few minutes walking around in frustration, I jacked the car back up, took off the shield, drained about half a Qt of oil, and put it back together again. checked the oil when it was back on the ground, and it was back to what it was the first time, just at the bottom of the stick, not even into the hash marks.

I had learned my lesson the first time, and added almost no oil, and checked the stick... it was back up almost halfway on the stick (almost a foot over the max fill... [bigcry]

So, I ran the car for a few minutes, and am going to let it sit for some time to see if it goes down.

TL;DR
Is it VERY easy to overfill the oil in the focus, or am I missing something?
Thanks in advance guys, its been a long day.[?|]
 
#201 ·
The specification sheet calls for a fill of 4.5 quarts.

I have found that 5 quarts will go in if you use the longer filters.
 
#202 ·
Put 4.5 quarts in it and be done with it. Dip sticks arent always totally accurate. My Mach 1 is off with the correct amount of oil as well. Ive always used ford filters and have never had a problem either. Ill be using ford oil in the focus as well. My mustang gets mobil 1 and a ford filter, but it only has the oil changed once a year in spring when it comes out of storage.
 
#204 ·
but it only has the oil changed once a year in spring when it comes out of storage.
You should change your oil the day you put it into storage, not the day you take it out. Fresh oil during storage is better. When you bring it out in the spring, all you have to do is take the car for an extended drive. 30 minutes should do. This will condition the oil for all year use.
 
#203 ·
Thanks for the reply's, I think I was just not waiting long enough to check the stick... apparently you need to let it sit for 5 min's before the hole where the stick goes clears of oil.

In the future though I think i will just dump 4.5 Quarts in and leave it. Easier that way[headbang]
 
#205 ·
Oil had around 800 miles on it this year. I dont think its contaminated by any means. Plus being mobil 1 full synthetic it looks as clean as the oil Im replacing it with. I like to change it for the fresh filter in spring. I just make sure before i start it to hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank the engine a few times to get oil back up top. Then I start as normal.
 
#206 ·
Please add to the OP:

Mobil1 5 quart jugs at Wal-Mart are $24.97.

It appears that the correct oil for the Focus is only available in stores, however. Best deal around for quality full synthetic!


Also to be added to the OP: Someone mentioned that there is a longer filter available for more element surface area, but I can't find the part number after scanning the pages of this thread. Anyone have this? Can it be added to the part #'s and prices list too? Thanks!!
 
#207 ·
Please add to the OP:

Mobil1 5 quart jugs at Wal-Mart are $24.97.

It appears that the correct oil for the Focus is only available in stores, however. Best deal around for quality full synthetic!
Mobil 1 is not a full synthetic and has not been since 2006. It's a sham and should be illegal to market a product as "fully synthetic" when it's not. No other country in the world tolerates this except for the U.S.

Visom - BITOG
 
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