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MK3 2012 Focus - Oil Change 101

446K views 1K replies 216 participants last post by  RedFocusSEGuy 
#1 · (Edited)
Just did my first oil change on the 2012 Focus. Thought I'd help those who haven't done it yet.

What you'll need: 15mm wrench, T30 torx, 1.25 gallons of 5W-20 Oil, Oil Filter ( FL-910S )




Raise the car. I used a floor jack at the front driver jack point (see manual), then braced with a jack stand to prevent getting killed. I think ramps would be easier.


Remove the felt panel by removing the 8 torx bolts. If you remove the bolt shown at the red arrow last (front center of car), the panel will stay up nicely. Supported by the notches shown with the yellow arrows.
Don't bother considering cutting a hole in the felt panel to get access to the oil filter. You'll need to remove the panel to get to the drain plug anyway. It comes off easy enough.




Change the oil filter and drain the oil. I didn't need an oil filter wrench because the oil filter is VERY accessible and could grab it with two hands. When replacing the filter, wet the rubber gasket on the new filter with oil, wipe away any dirt on the gasket surface of the engine and screw the new filter in until it touches the gasket surface. THEN screw by hand 3/4 of a turn more. Don't forget to put the drain plug back in (20 ft/lbs per Ford shop manual - Oil pan drain plug/Part# 6730/ Torque 27 Nm (20 lb-ft)).




Put 4 quarts of oil in, start the engine and check for leaks. Do this before lowering the car. 4 quarts will fill it enough to measure halfway between the two holes on the dipstick. If you want to avoid some of the start-up clatter, crank the engine for a few seconds with the accelerator floored. Gas is shut off when you do this but the oil pump should fill the filter. After making sure you have no leaks, replace the felt panel, lower the car and top off the oil. Mine took exactly 4.5 quarts to reach the top of the hash marks on the dipstick.



Resetting the oil life monitoring system
1. Turn the ignition key to the on position. Do not start the engine.
For vehicles with push-button start, press and hold the START/STOP
button for two seconds without pressing the brake pedal. Do not attempt
to start the engine.
2. Press both the accelerator and brake pedals at the same time.
3. Keep both pedals fully pressed.
4. After three seconds, the Service: Oil reset in prog. message will be
displayed.
5. After 25 seconds, the Service: Oil reset complete message will be
displayed.
6. Release both the accelerator and brake pedals.
7. The Service: Oil reset complete message will no longer be
displayed.
8. Rotate the key to the off position.
For vehicles with push-button start, press the START/STOP button to
turn the vehicle off completely.

As of 2/20/2012...
5qts. Motorcraft 5w-20 Synthetic Blend - 21.99
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_5W-20-Synthetic-Blend-Motor-Oil-Motorcraft_8030012-P_N3291M_T|GRP2046_____
18.33 at Walmart
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Motorcraft-Synthetic-Blend-Motor-Oil-5W20-5qt/16940217

5qts. Mobil1 5W-20 Synthetic - 36.99
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_5W-20-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-%285-Plus-Quarts-Jug%29-Mobil1_10069913-P_N4019G_T|GRP2046_____

FL-910S oil filter - 3.97 at Walmart
 
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#664 ·
Just did my own oil change and E-RMM this weekend and the whole process took maybe 1 hour. Very easy to change oil on this car. (and the RMM as well!)
 
#666 ·
I went today and got mobil 1 synthetic w/ filter 32.99 at discount. Change they conventional out and out in synthetic. I have to say if nothing else the engine seems to run quieter now.

Nearing 15k I am changing the air filter (both air and cabin) with wix filters. Has anyone had any great results with the Lucas noise reducers or fuel treatments. I find these tend to be placebo effect. Any ideas?
 
#668 ·
I work on P&W 123 series turbine engines and we never pre fill the filters during change. The time it takes to build pressure is almost the same. Also there is a spring loaded valve that prevents oil pressure from building until the engine spinning fast enough to create sealing air pressure. The air pressure is integral part of the oil seal system. What I am getting at is that brief moment of oil refilling the filter during start should not cause any harm. Running with no oil like that DYI post different story and dumb.
 
#674 ·
I work on P&W 123 series turbine engines and we never pre fill the filters during change. The time it takes to build pressure is almost the same.
40+ years experience and in regard to internal combustion gasoline engines, my own experience is that preloading the oil filter does result in the motor building pressure faster on first start. This is not anecdotal as I have timed it both ways. Even if you don't have an oil pressure gauge, you can hear the clatter die down quicker when you preload.
 
#673 ·
Yeah, after all, a turbine engine has so much in common with a reciprocal engine. If I have a question on transmission gear change operation, I'll look up how a bicycle's rear derailleur works. Smart ass response, but you get the idea.
 
#681 ·
Anyone know if the slope/height of these would be OK on a stock height HB?

I think those are the ones I have... it's still a pain for me to pull up on them fully with the DCT. I either don't make it up or overshoot every time. But the last 2 times I used them (I overshot) and the ramps pitched forward and the rear end of the ramp hit the pinch weld / plastic molding under the car (nothing broke). Then I just slowly reversed until I heard them click back onto the ground. lol

Or, you know, don't overshoot. Scared the crap out of me - I almost want to make my own less steep ramps or a longer flat area on top. 17 degrees isn't that much...
 
#683 ·
I made my own out of pine 10" wide several layers, cut the 'v'one end. I actually have them so the first level has a flat long enough for the tire to rest. Then another jump up to the top. My ramps are only four inches tall. But that is enough to get under and change the oil.
I added a 3/4" this last time as the job with the about 3" tall ramp was tough for my 64 year old carcass.
I originally made them 15 years ago.. A few buck of wood. a few screws. A little effort to cut the v end.
 
#692 ·
Does anyone think its a good idea to change the break in oil? My car is at around 700 miles, it was recommended by a friend that i do an oil change around 1000 miles to get rid of any junk from while the engine was breaking in. The dealer says i don't need one till 5000 miles. Thoughts/Opinions?
 
#694 ·
I did my first at about 1200 miles, then at 5000, then at exactly 10000 (it was fun driving around the dealership until I hit the magic numbers) and have tried to keep it as close to 5000 intervals ever since.
 
#695 ·
I changed my first oil at 1,000 miles also.
Problem was i could not get the filter off. So i skipped that, and at 2,000 miles i changed the oil again AND the filter.
Then at 7,000 miles I did an oil change, but I felt the oil was a little dirty,
So I lowered the miles to 4K next time, and did the oil change after 4,000 miles at 11,000 miles.

you can look at your oil right off the dipstick (on a piece of paper towel) and get a feel for how dirty it is.
 
#697 ·
Thanks arco but the link just took me to this thread a few pages back, there's a similar conversation and someone else posted a link that has since been removed. I think I'll go
ahead and change it cause the oil change place I usually go gives free car washes with inspections and oil changes
 
#698 ·
Thanks arco but the link just took me to this thread a few pages back, there's a similar conversation and someone else posted a link that has since been removed. I think I'll go ahead and change it cause the oil change place I usually go gives free car washes with inspections and oil changes
That's what I meant by "Deja vu". The question is a recurring one, and the answers come with equal enthusiasm from both sides with no clear conclusion, so we're left on our own to decide. I'm with you that I'll probably do mine at 1,000 miles, whether it needs it or not. If not, I'll be wasting a little time and money, but at least not doing my car any harm. If so, all's good. Where I'm not with you is in trusting an "oil change place" to either change my oil or wash my car.

(My plan when I came to this site a few years ago was to learn what to look out for to buy a used, less than perfect Focus that I could then be more relaxed about caring for. I mean, it's just a car, right? So much for that plan. Here I am again, back to my old fanatacism about my cars that I thought I would be over by my age. Oh well.)
 
#700 ·
Heading out for my first oil change...unfortunately at 2100 miles instead of the 500 miles I did my 99 Contour at. Thanks for posting the link to the thread showing metal in the oil - now you got me a bit worried! :)

I drain into a black plastic "pan", so metal won't be visible...trying to think of how I can see if there is anything in the oil. I could drain it slowly from the pan into the oil container (I keep dirty oil in the same container it comes in) so any metal stays on the bottom. And then feel the bottom of the empty plastic pan for metal shavings.

I'm surprised with all the talk about manufacturing being so perfect that any metal would be visible to the human eye....but talk is cheap they say.
 
#701 ·

If you want to avoid some of the start-up clatter, crank the engine for a few seconds with the accelerator floored. Gas is shut off when you do this but the oil pump should fill the filter


start-up clatter is it the oil you just fill they haven't reach the whole engine yet, so there will be some clatter? does it damage the engine?

and to crank the engine you mean with the car turned off just floor the gas for a few seconds? should I pump it or just floor it for a few sec?

sure way to check for leaks after oil change? leave it idle for a few min then look at the ground? thanks a lot for the great tutorial


(I have a focus ST)
 
#703 ·
Had some metal slivers in my oil. A friend who never buys new cars (100k miles is new to him!) said his cars had metal in the oil every time.

The oil filter is 100% vertical so it's perfect for pre-filling (I did).

Noticed the car is rusting where the felt "tabs" (of the engine cover) touch the car. I bought it around Black Friday 2013 and didn't drive it over the winter. We had almost no snow before then, so it has seen very little salt.
 
#704 ·
I have seen rust spots on the aeroshield (felt engine bottom cover) on brand new cars. This can simply be condensation dripping off of the unpainted (and often rusty) cast iron suspension components. It is nothing to worry about.

If the sheet metal is rusting, then I would suspect salt.
 
#705 ·
The car is rusting..I live in Syracuse (most years is the snowiest city with 100k+ population), I know what rust is believe me...unfortunately. I saw another guy from Syracuse in the old "metal in my oil" thread from 2012 trying to convince someone of the same thing (he said his car will rust away before the engine will wear out; I'm in the same position).

I didn't see any rust on the felt, it was the metal "frame" (thin metal, I'd call it sheetmetal) that the felt tabs lay on top of which is rusty. There is some rust bubbling under the black paint here and there in that general area too. The metal is thin, it won't last 10 years at this rate.

The axles that run to the CV joint are covered in rust, and a big chunk of iron (a subframe?) next to the wheels is very rusty (everything else looks to be aluminum). Both are thick so Ford figures they will be strong enough even after years of rusting I surmise. Having rust stains on the cement garage floor sucks though...My Contour did that after only 5-7 years.
 
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