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What to buy? Looking for dogbone mount...

3K views 22 replies 5 participants last post by  Ryokuro 
#1 ·
#2 ·
I've personally decided on the CFM unit solely because it's $20 cheaper. CFM has both street and race options (different durometer bushings) whereas VF is only a single bushing type though if that influences your decision at all.
 
#3 ·
Is this the right mount to help reduce wheel hop on hard take offs? And I take it that the street bushings from CFM are sufficient enough for what I want?
 
#6 ·
Sure post them up. Which bushings? And are either of these rebuildable? If I wanted to order new bushings (or the race ones) could I push the old out and the new in?
 
#7 ·
The dogbone is the one you want for reducing wheel hop although you'll definitely see even better behavior with all three replaced. I had racing mounts (maybe 1/3" of polyuerethane 90A durometer material) on my '07 Civic Si and it vibrated like crazy but I could break my tires loose all day long without a single hint of wheel hop.
 
#8 ·
I know that would make the vibrations too much at idle without a tune to bump up the idle speed.
 
#11 ·
There's a very heated thread that goes over what causes wheel hop and how you can get rid of it. A stiffer mount will... help-but should by no means be used in an effort to "eliminate" wheel hop. The mount has little to no effect on the forces that cause the problem.

I have the VF mount. It's wonderful and I definitely recommend it. I hardly notice vibrations and shifts are much easier and more precise. I do still get wheel hop on hard launches, though it is not as pronounced as it is with the factory motor mount.

There is a noticeably sharper reaction to throttle input with a stiffer mount, however I can not recommend modifying the driver and passenger side mounts on a daily driven vehicle. The vibration would be ridiculous and you would likely never notice a difference in performance vs the stock mounts.
 
#20 ·
I beg to differ. I ran the rear mount for awhile, then upgraded the top driver/pass mount. The vibrations are not that bad once they break in. I also bumped my idle up to 1K, which helps alot also. There is a difference running all three mounts.
 
#12 ·
Thanks Mac. I was already certain nothing would be gained from changing the upper mounts, but the confirmation is good. Visually, the VF and CFM look quite similar. Is there something different on the implementation or engineering side I'm not seeing?
 
#13 ·
CFM mount. Direct bolt on. You can see that the bushings are broke in. However, the mount doesn't cause any noises, clunking, etc. The only reason why I took it off is because I bought the Massive Speed one that has a stiffer mount (95A bushings). Not sure how many miles, but there won't be much vibration compared to buying a new one. $40 shipped. I see your in Bmore. I'm in Elkridge so I'm sure we can meet up if you like.





 
#15 ·
Tom I'll take it. Best case: it does exactly what I want. Worst case: I get the stiffer bushings from CFM. Worst worst case: I buy the Massive or VF mount down the road.

When & where would you be interested in meeting? Would Catonsville be good? Like at the CCBC Campus? Or near there?

And thanks for the pics Mac (and Tom). This will be helpful to others down the road, I'm sure.
 
#16 ·
Ok, I've been following these few motor/tranny mount threads and I need suggestions.

I have 102,000 on my 2011 SES, all highway miles. Its lowered on Eibach Sportlines, stock aside from that and I know my mounts are bad as I am getting vibration at idle and a slight thunk when I put it in gear from park. I drive 140 miles a day round trip to work.

I am leaning towards factory uppers and an aftermarket lower, possibly the Massive mount.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

 
#17 ·
Since it's your DD, I'd follow macs advice, go factory uppers and anything you put in the bottom will be an improvement over your worn out one. It's just a matter of how much money you want to shell for a mount
 
#22 ·
Like I said, this has been discussed at length.
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=305052&highlight=wheel+hop

Motor mounts will not get rid of wheel hop. Many things contribute to cause wheel-hop and the engine mounts are just 1% of the equation. Weak suspension is the majority cause of wheel hop. Stiffen the bushings, correct the damping, and use good tires to eliminate wheel hop.

I already said I have a VF mount and still experience wheel hop. It isn't because the VF mount is too soft or badly designed. Even if I went solid mounts all around I would still get the same amount of wheel hop.
 
#23 ·
I'm sure it's not going to end my wheel hop, but if it helps any, I'll be happy. I picked it up yesterday from Tom and I'll throw it on later in the week when my roof spoiler comes in.
 
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