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Rocking seat?

15K views 20 replies 10 participants last post by  theskyisoutthere 
#1 ·
I weas wondering if anyone has had an issue with their seat rocking? Kind of like it feels loose. Problem is, it isn't the base of the seat, it is the rail. I am thinking something came loose and just needs to be retightened. That and my seat back seems to not lock as tight as it used to. I know I am not that fat. lol
 
#2 ·
my seats are nice and tight. most of the parts on the seat are riveted or welded. there are not many fasteners to come loose. the rail is removable from the seat bottom and probably needs to be replaced. i would not trust it and would replace it immediately
 
#5 ·
I have noticed this on my drivers seat also... thought it was my enormous mass that had caused it...
 
#7 ·
Duh duh dah DAAH! Done (diagnosing anyways...).
First, disconnect the battery.

Second, use tools (I prefer a ratcheting type) to remove three bolts and a nut metric sized 15. In the picture, they correspond to where they came from. And to better access the front ones, slide the seat back. And the cover on the front left one, it just pops off. You can just pull towards the front. For the back, slide the seat forward. They are a bit cramped and the right rear is a little bit of a pain to get to. I sat in the back seat for it.

Then disconnect the weight and seatbelt sensors and airbag. Just flip the gray tab and pull.

Tilt the seat to the left, grab the right rail, and lift out of the car. You will be left with a gaping hole. And in my case, my passengers will be grateful. They have room to get in the back now! [wiggle]


I brought my seat inside under optimal lighting and flipped it over to get a better look at what is causing this infernal clicking and movement. This is what I saw.

And after jiggling and moving of various parts, the only thing that was moving was this bar on this bolt. Problem for me is that I don't have the tools to tighten this, so I am going to have to go shopping for some Torx bits. But for me, this is on both sides and they are causing the problem.


I don't know if they are damaged, just need a new grommet, or tightening... I just don't know. But I hope this helps.
 
#8 ·
Thanks for posting these photos. The seat in my Focus literally just started jiggling yesterday and I was going to tackle it today. I wake up and see this thread. Perfect timing.

It's the smallest movement, but it's driving me crazy every time I come to a stop because the seat blips forward. Then I accelerate from the stop and it blips backwards.
 
#9 ·
I got under there and, sure enough, my seat wiggle is coming from the same spot. Only the driver side bar is loose on mine. I cranked the already tight bolt (T-40 Torx and ~1/2 inch nut, can be accessed without removing the seat from the car), but it didn't help. It looks like the problem with my seat is because of play between the yellow grommet hole and the bolt. I didn't remove the bolt to confirm.
 
#10 ·
On mine it is loose on both sides. It is making me think that the hole has been bent so it is now bigger. So I am thinking that a tear down needs to occur to see the root of that problem. If I can get the Torx bit, I will undo it and post again.
 
#12 ·
My seats are doing it as well. I can't really pinpoint where the movement is coming from but it is definitely disconcerting when driving around feeling like you're not attached to anything.
 
#16 ·
I started to take a crack at it yesterday, but I had tightened the bolt so much during my first attempt to get rid of the jiggle that it isn't coming off now without some serious coaxing.

The bolt is soft enough and a T-40 Torx is loose enough that I'm going to have to be real careful with my approach. My next larger bit is a T-45, and that is entirely too big. It needs something around a T-42. I even tried going at it from the nut, but light hammering on the wrench wasn't getting it to move either. I'm going to put an extension over the wrench (hammering with a mallet if I need to). Just needs some leverage; I'll get it off, but what a pain.

So I guess the lesson is to not crank down on this bolt like a madman because it won't stop the wiggle and you'll create more work for yourself.
 
#17 ·
I was able to stop the wiggle without any real work. I used the seat height lever and raised my seat up and lowered it back down. Now the seat does not wiggle even if I try to force it.
 
#21 ·
So This is an older thread but the problem was well reported around. I too have a wobble seat in my 2010.

After 2 removals I found that the source of my wobble was mainly the front 2 plastic bushings behind the bolts pictured earlier in this thread. one on each side. However I had no luck in finding the part. Even the ford dealer could not locate the part. I figured there had to be something i could use to replace the plastic bushings with something new and tighter.

This fix that has held up for now over 7k miles and the seat being adjusted many times (as my wife is shorter than me by alot and we both use it.)

Let me start off by saying this sounds like a crappy fix but if you think about it it will out live the plastic originals.

Remove one of the bolts with the torx bit and take out the plastic bushing. go to a hardware store and find 3/4 inch soft copper tubing (sold by the foot) you need less than 1 foot. while your are there locate a PLASTIC OR NYLON washer with a center bore bigger than the bolt shoulder per bushing replaced, this will be used to remove the excess space of the old shoulder of the bushing removed.

You need a tubing cutter (do not use a saw) using a tubing cutter will slightly compress the soft copper while you run it around the outside as it cuts. You need about 1/4 inch length ring from the tubing per each bushing.

Now you will need to slightly debur the inside of the soft copper ring just so it is able to start on the bolt sholder but not slide free. apply good grease lightly on the bolt shoulder and use an uncut portion of the tube (or a socket) and lightly tap the copper ring on the bolt till its all the way up on the bolt.

Next start to assemble the seat back together, grease the hole where the old plastic busing was. Now you will NOT be able to push the copper ring back in the old hole. using the nut and holding the bolt with the torx bit and aligned with the hex part on the end to the seat part. Tighten the bolt to slowly compress the soft copper into the seat frame hole and make it a press fit. The soft copper is alot softer than the steel frame and will deform into the hole. Once you have it all the way in take the nut off and add the plastic or nylon washer then replace the nut. Tighten the nut.

Continue the rest of the wiggly bolts the same way.

The theory was that the soft copper will not bind to the steel shoulder on the bolt as the steel is harder than the copper. any wear will be in the copper side just like the plastic bushing.

Again I would have rather replaced the worn part with a new part but I could not locate the part. Now the raise and lower is now smoother than it has ever been yet firm and snug.
 
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