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Old 12-28-2016, 02:41 AM   #1
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PS3 in my car?

Hey all, looking to upgrade my stereo. Here's my plan with a ~$200 budget, I'd like some of your thoughts on this. This is the headunit:

Soundstream AptiX VR-65XB DVD receiver at Crutchfield.com

and the power inverter:

https://www.amazon.com/Uinstone-Powe...2%3A2661618011

Get the stereo in the car, hardwire the power inverter to the battery, run AV cables from an extra PS3 Slim I have laying around to the back of the headunit. PS3 under the passenger seat probably, and hopefully Murphys Law doesnt hate me. Thoughts?


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Old 12-28-2016, 04:03 PM   #2
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Sounds Like a plan.
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Old 12-28-2016, 04:22 PM   #3
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Pretty good. I'd run the power inverter through a switch, so you don't drain your battery when it is off.
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Old 12-29-2016, 10:10 AM   #4
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Going to want to go with a larger power inverter at least, as even the PS3 super-slim model uses up to 190 watts of power with all of the larger models rated from 200 to 380 watts. The inverter you linked to is rated at 150 watts continuous.
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Old 12-29-2016, 12:01 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcordes1979 View Post
Going to want to go with a larger power inverter at least, as even the PS3 super-slim model uses up to 190 watts of power with all of the larger models rated from 200 to 380 watts. The inverter you linked to is rated at 150 watts continuous.
where'd you get your info? I saw it only uses up to ~90 watts. Though I did a very short google search for it. Seems like the larger model uses up to 190 watts but reports show that the slim uses half that. Putting his inverter in the sweet spot IMO.
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Old 12-29-2016, 12:15 PM   #6
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https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Play...specifications going off of the power supply rating, hence why I used "up to".

Why push the edge of the inverters ratings when a slightly larger inverter is not that much more expensive?
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Old 12-29-2016, 12:25 PM   #7
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I think that is peak power rating which is still less than the peak of that inverter. Not that it really matters. 95 watts (CLICKY which coincides pretty well with the peak numbers given in the wiki) is less <66% of nominal power usage so not really pushing it at all. No need to spend more when not necessary.
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Old 01-16-2017, 11:16 PM   #8
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Wow I appreciate the responses! Figures though, the day I get it in the mail my cig lighter outlet quit working. Not sure what to do there yet. I'm going to be wiring it directly to the battery, but not quite sure about that either. One of my issues is that for some reason when I'm driving my headlights will randomly dim slightly, then come back up. It happens more when I'm playing music, but will still do it with the radio off. I am running a 650w amp driving 2 10" subs. I tried HID's and the dimming problem increased exponentially. I was worried about the power draw of the inverter since my lights are already dimming. Just headlights though, dash lights and everything else stay perfect.
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Old 01-17-2017, 05:09 PM   #9
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You need a beefier alternator methinks.
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Old 01-17-2017, 06:02 PM   #10
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Quote:
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You need a beefier alternator methinks.
No, he needs to do the big 3 upgrade (power wire from bat->alt, ground wire from bat->chassis and engine->chassis.) in at least 2 gauge probably 0/1 gauge if he adds the inverter.

I was running north of 700Watt rms system w/ factory HIDs and never had a problem with dimming. If you go HIDs again you need to get a quality ballast, the cheap 30$ kits wont cut it.

after that he should be fine unless he starts to go over 900-1k watt rms. I'd be looking into alt upgrades then depending on how bad the voltage drop is.

Last edited by Tundrafoci; 01-17-2017 at 06:30 PM.
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