First off let me thank an FF member for putting a concise collection of Euro-Conversion info in one place...
Thank You, 02ZX3NJ! Your friggin' awesome, I don't care what they say about ya!!!
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?&p=2340980#post2340980
A hearty thank you also goes out to Pyroinsa for his thread which led me to the aforementioned how-to:
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=284755&page=3
I wanted to throw my hat in the ring and add a few pieces of info to an already fantastic thread/how-to.
I found the Ford pin-out charts at school, and with factory info in hand went about tearing trim, running & cutting wire, and soldering all the connections back together (NO scotch locks here, my friends; I paid too much to learn how to do it!).
Mine is an '03, and the gray, blue, and green connectors at the junction box had nothing to do with my conversion. A few wiring diagrams helped me find a way to make a late model-year '03 separate input signals.
Location of the GEM Module
... and in-car behind the glove box
Pin-Out Chart for C201d
Lighting System Overview
Rear Lights Circuits
The chart showed the input signals for the rear tail lights coming from the yellow connector at the GEM. Following the info, the blue w/ yellow wire was the right hand (RH) brake wire, and the blue w/ black the left side (LH). These were first back-probed to find B+ (batt. voltage) when the signal was turned on. after finding that these were indeed the correct wires I had a place to get my turn signals from.
The interior was removed and I set about route the wires under the carpet and out harm's way. The constant brake signal needed for the brake lights to operate uninterrupted was found at the high-mounted center brake light (which I found has melted inside it's housing a good bit over the years). I found out the correct colors of these wires by removing the center brake light and checking the harness going to it.
I then had to cut everything, and prepare the solder and the shrink tubing. I saw a number of pics utilizing the scotch locks as a means of piggy-backing the wires; but have you ever thought about how many strands inside the wires end up cut due to those?! The scotch locks are supposed to cut the insulating materiel and touch the wires on the outside, like a hug (albeit a crappy, friend-zone, butt-out, limp hug)... I wanted to ensure maximum contact with the electrical connections, as those inadvertently cut strands add resistance and heat to the connection. My solid motor mounts would also rattle those bastards loose after a certain period of time anyway, and the shrink tubing not only protects better against weather/corrosion; but looks more professional as well. I also left extra tubing in the corresponding colors to make later work less confusing. So cutting the signal wires at C201d for the turns and soldering the wires in that I'd run already you got this
Before:
And After:
Next up was the removal of the center light to check colors, and tracing them down to the rear distribution block. Positive and negative are indicated with the arrows; but check yours first before relying on my circumstances... Ford changed the color of the wires every few years, so my colors differ from yours!
After: Cut/Soldered/shrink tubed
Another check was performed to ensure the right cuts and connections had been made and crimping little clips on the ends of the new wires began (not pictured).
The bulb holders and bulbs were fitted, and checked again... good thing too, as the clips had been installed backwards on one side causing a dimming of the right brake light when the pedal was pressed. Here they are after that:
With everything working I buttoned it all up, and hit the streets! OH... a light bulb DID get dropped and I headed to Advance to get a new stl here's what you'll need to fit the EU bulb holders:
1157 LLs
And there you have it! Any questions, lemme know, and again; refer to the posts I used to do this as well to get a better idea of operation before you get into the whole thing...
Finished!
And don't use these anymore; be better than that!
Thank You, 02ZX3NJ! Your friggin' awesome, I don't care what they say about ya!!!
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?&p=2340980#post2340980
A hearty thank you also goes out to Pyroinsa for his thread which led me to the aforementioned how-to:
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=284755&page=3
I wanted to throw my hat in the ring and add a few pieces of info to an already fantastic thread/how-to.
I found the Ford pin-out charts at school, and with factory info in hand went about tearing trim, running & cutting wire, and soldering all the connections back together (NO scotch locks here, my friends; I paid too much to learn how to do it!).
Mine is an '03, and the gray, blue, and green connectors at the junction box had nothing to do with my conversion. A few wiring diagrams helped me find a way to make a late model-year '03 separate input signals.
Location of the GEM Module
... and in-car behind the glove box
Pin-Out Chart for C201d
Lighting System Overview
Rear Lights Circuits
The chart showed the input signals for the rear tail lights coming from the yellow connector at the GEM. Following the info, the blue w/ yellow wire was the right hand (RH) brake wire, and the blue w/ black the left side (LH). These were first back-probed to find B+ (batt. voltage) when the signal was turned on. after finding that these were indeed the correct wires I had a place to get my turn signals from.
The interior was removed and I set about route the wires under the carpet and out harm's way. The constant brake signal needed for the brake lights to operate uninterrupted was found at the high-mounted center brake light (which I found has melted inside it's housing a good bit over the years). I found out the correct colors of these wires by removing the center brake light and checking the harness going to it.
I then had to cut everything, and prepare the solder and the shrink tubing. I saw a number of pics utilizing the scotch locks as a means of piggy-backing the wires; but have you ever thought about how many strands inside the wires end up cut due to those?! The scotch locks are supposed to cut the insulating materiel and touch the wires on the outside, like a hug (albeit a crappy, friend-zone, butt-out, limp hug)... I wanted to ensure maximum contact with the electrical connections, as those inadvertently cut strands add resistance and heat to the connection. My solid motor mounts would also rattle those bastards loose after a certain period of time anyway, and the shrink tubing not only protects better against weather/corrosion; but looks more professional as well. I also left extra tubing in the corresponding colors to make later work less confusing. So cutting the signal wires at C201d for the turns and soldering the wires in that I'd run already you got this
Before:
And After:
Next up was the removal of the center light to check colors, and tracing them down to the rear distribution block. Positive and negative are indicated with the arrows; but check yours first before relying on my circumstances... Ford changed the color of the wires every few years, so my colors differ from yours!
After: Cut/Soldered/shrink tubed
Another check was performed to ensure the right cuts and connections had been made and crimping little clips on the ends of the new wires began (not pictured).
The bulb holders and bulbs were fitted, and checked again... good thing too, as the clips had been installed backwards on one side causing a dimming of the right brake light when the pedal was pressed. Here they are after that:
With everything working I buttoned it all up, and hit the streets! OH... a light bulb DID get dropped and I headed to Advance to get a new stl here's what you'll need to fit the EU bulb holders:
1157 LLs
And there you have it! Any questions, lemme know, and again; refer to the posts I used to do this as well to get a better idea of operation before you get into the whole thing...
Finished!
And don't use these anymore; be better than that!