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Old 04-16-2012, 05:59 AM   #79011
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I thought ed just talked like that normally?
F uuuuuuuuuuuuuuu

To lazy to find meme
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:07 AM   #79012
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Yonkers.... New project......

http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/cto/2939983048.html
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:10 AM   #79013
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Morning, good weekend was good. Now to start hell week at work. Here at 645, leave at unknown time.

Brad, ill try to make these welds prettier. Just do as much clean up and gutting of the car in that corner. Also email me a link to a how to if you can find one so I has an idea of wtf im doing.
The top post is what I'll have done before you get here
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1283649
the second post is what we'll be doing but properly with welds. also pending how well timmy's welder does with not crapping out on us possibly just seam weld around the piece?

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hmmm will research if I can put m3 motor into that.
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:14 AM   #79014
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Yes do it. That's what I was thinking. Gotta still be available
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:15 AM   #79015
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Why don't we rivet it like that guy did? I has pneumatic rivet gun. Then to be safe we can put some welfare as well. If that's all that's wrong with car, why swap it. M3 overall looks best
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:19 AM   #79016
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Why don't we rivet it like that guy did? I has pneumatic rivet gun. Then to be safe we can put some welfare as well. If that's all that's wrong with car, why swap it. M3 overall looks best
we could. and then weld around the outside of it your thinkin? that'd work.

there was some chat in the bimmer thread about how drilling through both pieces weakened it or something and given that I drive like a jackass I want to make sure its not going to rip out on me.
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:22 AM   #79017
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Yeah rivet then weld.

Even the weld only could break too though. I think both would be pleantu strong. My air rivet should be able to do most of them, others due to space would need a hand rivet.

Don't see how it would weaken that way. It would be equally weakened either way, if true.

Timmah welder might not be strong enough for that alone, since gas free. A gas mig would be fine.

But both together would be strong
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:40 AM   #79018
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I would try to not drill through, except in 2 spots. That way I can puddle weld in those 2 holes to hold it, then yes, seam weld it from inside, and then tack from underside.

Are you getting the z3 top plates?

I would not rivet it, just not a fan of them.

This looks pretty easy, just want to not burn your car down, so gut the rear seat and trunk pieces.

Edit, I will also look into wire size and settings on his welder to get it better. His welder will do it no problem, just gotta dial it in.
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:49 AM   #79019
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Originally Posted by beat3rfocus View Post
I would try to not drill through, except in 2 spots. That way I can puddle weld in those 2 holes to hold it, then yes, seam weld it from inside, and then tack from underside.

Are you getting the z3 top plates?

I would not rivet it, just not a fan of them.

This looks pretty easy, just want to not burn your car down, so gut the rear seat and trunk pieces.
Yup will do.
all trunk stuff will be out and seats/carpet as well since someone wants to buy + swap for stock parts later on saturday.

so try to only drill through the first plate piece that we are replacing and have no holes through the rest of the fender if possible?

the car already has z3 top plates so yes to those.
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:54 AM   #79020
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Yes, I would perfer to not have to fill in 16 holes.

try not to drill through at all. We can make that decision when trying to fit everything.

Buy some undercoating and spray paint, as ish will rust in a few Weeks if not treated.
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