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Old 06-18-2017, 01:12 PM   #1
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What the hell!?

My car runs like a saint when it's cold but when it's at optimal temperature, it runs like hell.
What I'm going through:
Loss of power when I apply gas. The more I apply the worse it gets. 10x worse uphill.
It bogs out and die at WOT until I let it go.
Bucks when driving
hissing while accelerating (sounds cool to me so, not really worried about that)
Rattling/rumbling/knocking at 2200 RPM (only there, maybe exhaust)

What I did after researching possible problems and suggestions from other posters:
Seafoamed the car
Changed coil pack (wires exposed at the connector but no broken or fried strands though)
Changed spark plugs (Currently gapped at .04 due to the slight modifications I've done)
Changed spark wires
Cleaned IAC
Cleaned entire intake system (air box, snorkel, tube, and MAF sensor)
Replaced air filter
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced fuel pump
Replaced motor mounts
Hoses are solid under temperature

I'm not throwing any codes, so what else can it might be?
Also, if any members live in the Cleveland/Akron area, PM me and I'll just bring it to you.
Many thanks


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Old 06-18-2017, 01:35 PM   #2
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Throttle position sensor?

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Old 06-18-2017, 02:49 PM   #3
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Possibly after 17 years. But will it cause problems if I unplugged it though?
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Old 06-18-2017, 04:56 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AtodaZ View Post
Loss of power when I apply gas. The more I apply the worse it gets. 10x worse uphill.
It bogs out and die at WOT until I let it go.
This says fuel delivery problem. How'd the pump replacement go? FRPS been checked for leaks?
Quote:
Originally Posted by AtodaZ View Post
Bucks when driving
hissing while accelerating (sounds cool to me so, not really worried about that)
Intake air, vacuum or exhaust leaks. All your emission control equipment (EGR, EVAP) is a source of potential intake manifold leaks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AtodaZ View Post
Changed coil pack (wires exposed at the connector but no broken or fried strands though)
Replace the coil connector. Exposed wires may be indicative of more breaks/corrosion problems within the connector itself.
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Old 06-18-2017, 05:23 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BC_ZX3 View Post
This says fuel delivery problem. How'd the pump replacement go? FRPS been checked for leaks?

Intake air, vacuum or exhaust leaks. All your emission control equipment (EGR, EVAP) is a source of potential intake manifold leaks.

Replace the coil connector. Exposed wires may be indicative of more breaks/corrosion problems within the connector itself.
What's FRPS. I'm not sure what you mean with how the pump replacement go? I'm guessing you're referring to installation or the model. It was a pain to access but was easy when I got to it. I can double check for leaks up top but I'm sure there isn't any

Maybe exhaust and possibly vacuum. All of the hoses are solid but might open up pinholes when hot.

Gotcha. Surgery time
Will update as soon as possible. Anymore crackdowns while I'm under there will be appreciated

Last edited by AtodaZ; 06-18-2017 at 05:30 PM. Reason: Post didn't show correctly
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Old 06-18-2017, 07:08 PM   #6
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FRPS = Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor. They sometimes fail and leak fuel into the intake manifold resulting in low fuel pressure and rough running.
I meant: When you replaced the pump did you replace the whole unit with the newer "spring" style and remove the retaining tabs from the the fuel tank floor?
Easiest way to determine if it's a fuel problem would be to datalog/measure fuel pressure when it bogs. Eliminate that possibility and then move forward.
Wiring intermittents/breaks tend to get worse with heat.
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Old 06-18-2017, 09:46 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AtodaZ View Post
Possibly after 17 years. But will it cause problems if I unplugged it though?
If unplugged, you'll get poor throttle response as the system doesn't know to add fuel for acceleration. Needs to know throttle plate position.
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Old 06-19-2017, 01:12 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BC_ZX3 View Post
FRPS = Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor. They sometimes fail and leak fuel into the intake manifold resulting in low fuel pressure and rough running.
I meant: When you replaced the pump did you replace the whole unit with the newer "spring" style and remove the retaining tabs from the the fuel tank floor?
Easiest way to determine if it's a fuel problem would be to datalog/measure fuel pressure when it bogs. Eliminate that possibility and then move forward.
Wiring intermittents/breaks tend to get worse with heat.
Im not sure if the tabs are still in there. And when I perform the datalog, do I look at FP Duty cycle or FI Pressure?
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Old 06-19-2017, 01:21 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
If unplugged, you'll get poor throttle response as the system doesn't know to add fuel for acceleration. Needs to know throttle plate position.
Figure it would do that. Wouldn't want to drive with that unplugged lol. But it's very accurate in regards of throttle response but I'm not excluding it.
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Old 06-19-2017, 12:30 PM   #10
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Update: No leaks from FRPS.
No holes/leaks from vacuum hoses
Fuel pressure good from injectors (done while idled)
(37-41 idle to light throttle)
(40-53 easing into WOT from 2000-4100; stops at 41in N; 36 in gear)
(43-47 slam and release)

Forgot to mention that all of this happens in many ranges to help investigate further:

2400-: Major loss in power when warm, slow acceleration, and more throttle=bog out. Total hell going uphill. Have to ease off twice then drive with just my big toe until I gets in range.

2400-3600: All gravy, runs like how it suppose to and can abuse the throttle despite slow WOT

Trying to pass 3600 in gear regardless of throttle amount: cutoff until I let it coast back down to said range.

Might have to suck it up and go to a nearby shop and let them figure it out.
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