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Old 01-05-2017, 06:51 PM   #1
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sudden onset engine problem won't idle at all

I had made several different trips today without incident.As I was getting ready to leave my final stop something happened.As I started the car it took a lot longer than usual to start.When it did finally fire it was running extremely rough.It died several times in a row.If you stepped on the throttle you could get it to stumble but then rev up.It almost sounded normal above 3K rpm but was stumbling badly below that.I was able to limp it home as I was only 1-2 miles away when this happened.
I now have 2 different check engine codes and it absolutely refuses to idle.I also noticed when driving home my brake pedal felt "heavy" as if I had no power brakes .Code 1 Stored code is P1131 Lack of O2 sensor switch,sensor indicates lean. Code 2 is P0125 Insufficient coolant temp for closed loop operation.I get a hot oily smell when I opened the hood but was not able to see a leak or anywhere /anything obvious causing the smell
My first thought was a vacuum leak,but how/why would this occur suddenly
upon restarting the car ? Also what would be the symptom of a timing belt that jumped a tooth or 2.It's puzzling to me as it was running perfectly fine,I shut it off and the trouble occurred upon restart maybe 7-10 minutes later when I went to leave.
Any help is greatly appreciated.I'm off work with a broken hand and don't really have the funds to have it towed into a shop for diagnosis
BTW car is 2002 SE wagon,2.0 Zetec with auto transmission


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Old 01-05-2017, 06:54 PM   #2
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Check the pvc hose. Known failure point and would result in both lean code and "hot oily smell". Other code seems unrelated...wont hurt to check for leaks near the thermostat. Could have cause excessive heat finally breaking the crappy oem thermostat housing
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Old 01-06-2017, 12:33 PM   #3
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^Agree, it is definitely a hole in your PCV hose (or it fell off).

The smell, bad idle, boggy revs, and lack of vacuum boost for the brakes is a dead giveaway (not to mention that it happens to every Zetec ever made until you replace it with the new armored hose).

Don't worry about the other CEL, change the hose first then clear the codes and see if the coolant temp code returns.
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Old 01-06-2017, 01:16 PM   #4
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Explain the location of pcv valve and hose

I looked at the hose running from the back port on the valve cover to the air box.It was in place but was stamped with a ford part number.It DID NOT appear to be cracked or loose
Looking at both NAPA and Rock auto catalogs there is an aluminum covered hose assembly available....But it looks nothing like the one running from the valve cover.Longer and shaped different.Where is this non armored hose at??
I'll check it as soon as I can figure out where it goes??
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Old 01-06-2017, 01:28 PM   #5
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The hose you found is not the PCV hose, but a passive vent hose for the top of the engine. The armored PCV hose (the new design from Ford) was not originally armored, just a rubber hose. It is found about halfway down the back of the IM, under the TB. It is connected to the front of the engine by a steel line that runs under the EGR and past the thermostat to connect to a sharply curved rubber hose going into the PCV valve. It is the back hose that fails every time, although the front one will also give out one day, if the engine lives long enough.
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Old 01-06-2017, 09:04 PM   #6
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100% correct It was the PCV line on the rear

After help identifying what it looked like and its location,I found the end that connected to the steel line and started tracing it backwards.I almost immediately found the loose dangling end where the hose had come off the intake!!!
Replaced it with the armored hose and a screw clamp on the manifold end to help keep it in place.Few scraped knuckles trying to reach up from underneath but problem solved.
Could not have done it without FF help and saved me some big $$$ as well
Thanks!!

Ronald
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