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Old 11-20-2016, 03:17 PM   #1
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Kicking myself: Door problems

So, my door handle broke. The actual handle didn't, but the little pot-metal armature that engages the latch linkage broke. I pulled my door apart and replaced it with a new handle, new assembly, etc.

Now my door won't open at all. The handles (both internal and external) pull and are engaging something, but it won't unlatch. The door is closed, and I can't remove the interior panel to get at whatever the problem is (I'm betting I forgot to reconnect something.)

I might need to just jimmy the door, but I don't know how to do that. Any help?


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Old 11-20-2016, 03:26 PM   #2
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Had the same problem. All of the torx screws around the door panel should look like this...



You can grip them with a needle nose pliers (or even better needle nose vise grips).
It's tedious but they will come off allowing you to access the inner workings.
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Old 11-20-2016, 10:44 PM   #3
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I read somewhere on this forum about a way to open a stuck door. I did it when my sons drivers door got stuck on his 2000 wagon.

Something about pushing/pulling just right while trying the key from the outside?
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Old 11-20-2016, 10:58 PM   #4
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That sounds like amc49's description of removing the inner latch handle assy. to get access to the cable.

Push and pull instead of just a pull that the handle gives can aid in opening one with a sticky latch, the usual original cause of breaking door handle mechanisms.
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Old 11-20-2016, 11:42 PM   #5
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Note to self:
Dear Marde,
We both know these door handles/latches might need replacement in the future. The mechanisms hate themselves even after lube & lookie-see during door speaker upgrade. If & when u do this, please leave the interior door panel OFF THE CAR for a couple days. It is NOT that I do not trust your work, but, I do not trust your work... and hate the handle design & mechanisms.
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Old 11-20-2016, 11:52 PM   #6
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This is what I did because I was so pissed off at the door. Quick trip to the pull&pay fixed it right up.
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Kicking myself: Door problems-2000-wagon-door-pics-003-30%25.jpg  

Kicking myself: Door problems-2000-wagon-door-pics-007-30%25.jpg  

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Old 11-21-2016, 01:55 AM   #7
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Butcher work, could have had that off in a few minutes with no damage.

Patience is the key to all things.........................you pull the switch cover as you did then one screw and unsnap the inside hand lever and then work the inside lock cable IN to unlock the door.

Lack of patience may have got you there to begin with, these doors if you base of palm the lock tab at same time you are unlocking door by handle will both lock and unlock simultaneously, it locks the latch assembly up then in a seizeup and nothing works until you work that lock cable back in to free the latch.

Pull latch out and see why, misdesigned to let the cable under certain pulls then lodge the cable to then stick the latch up. Down at the rocker built into side of latch assembly.

Once the latch runs dry of grease they tend to break those upper tabs off when the latch effort goes way up due to drag. Can't really resolve it with spray lube as the latch linkage is divided into 3 compartments and no way can you get grease into all of them.

Take one apart and see. BTDT. The last one I rebuilt was 3 or more years ago and works fine still, cost maybe 50 cents for a bolt.

I quit buying those latches after my first one at $135, highway robbery there.
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Old 11-21-2016, 06:51 PM   #8
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Hey amc49 if you knew the whole story about why I "decided" to do that it might have saved you all that time it took for you to write that.

Sorry here's the story.

That door was jammed/locked/shut. The cable trick did not work. Neither did any other trick I found to use.

The switch trim was already busted when I bought it. Also there was previous damage to the door card and handle.

You appear to be a smart guy on the internet and thank's for your advice, but your delivery needs to be a little smoother lol.

Now let's get back on track...

I am curious to know how the OP fixed this issue.

CHEERS!
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Old 11-21-2016, 11:40 PM   #9
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'The cable trick did not work.'

Not surprised, why I mentioned patience. It didn't for me either until I looked and studied closer. Blindly attack it and nothing happens.

From OP..........

'The handles (both internal and external) pull and are engaging something, but it won't unlatch.'

That can clearly define that assembly locked against itself like I said. I have now been there several times and had to force myself to learn to quit double locking the assembly against itself by accident, since doing that the problems have gone away. Since learning how to clear the seizeup I've been able to release every one I've worked on. It's a Ford design flaw that they won't correct because it sells latches by the truck full. The outside cable seizeup then I think forces one inside latch link that runs side by side with another to warp up over it to then lock them both up. The more the latch is worn the easier it is to happen as individual link sideplay figures into it. There's like 50 parts inside those latches and several are stupid silly weak fragile parts.

OP if he did it can easily break the tab link on outside handle when it runs into the door locked solid. No electrical working of the latch at that time will clear it, the motor does not have enough torque. It has to be freed by hand, messing with the cable does it.

There is another link arm sticking out of the outboard side of latch that has the link rod from outside handle going to it, that can unlock it too if one knows where it is located too but commonly is covered by the plastic antitheft cover that goes over all that and no tools pretty much can get to it.

Look at what I quoted from the OP again. You know where normally the inside triangle lock position is at both full on and full off. The spot at which you feel resistance is commonly in the MIDDLE of those two points somewhere and the indicator the lock has locked against itself.

If latch is laying on table in front of you, simply working it can often free it to go back to working fine until that one thing gets done again to screw it up. Ford needs to separate the inside door handle somewhat away from the unlock triangle, that would stop the problem completely.
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Old 11-22-2016, 06:22 PM   #10
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OMG dude drop it already.
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