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Old 06-01-2016, 01:43 AM   #1
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Question Engine Idles Rough And Has Delay In Accelleration

I have a 2007 Ford Focus SE, and have had it for around 8 months.
Originally it had a bad coil and a dirty fuel injector (both in cylinder 1).
Those were switched out by the dealer and all check engine lights are off.

Recently, I put in new platinum plugs (after adjusting the spark gap to 0.51mm), new coils and new fuel injectors. I replaced them all to ensure there are no issues (and 2 injectors were reading a variance in 0.3 ohms to the rest so i replaced them as a set).

No check engine codes are currently in effect.

I also checked all fluids, and all seem fine, even the transmission fluid is a nice pink color and there are no silver specs. No build-up under oil cap, and no discoloration in coolant reservoir. I used a spray bottle when the engine is running and there appears to be no reaction (no shorts in wires). Exhaust is clear, and no blue smoke.

I have noticed that my engine runs a little rough when in idle, and the RPMs are inconsistent (they range +-80 or so rpms when i use my code scanner).

The symptoms I seem to have are:
  1. Engine idles inconsistent (+-80 rpms)
  2. Engine idle is affected by using power windows (it revs slightly when i release switches)
  3. Vibration when car is in operation (most noticeable at idle / low speeds). Engine doesn't seem loose / mounts are intact.
  4. Acceleration feels delayed (engine revs but then accelerates with a small surge a second or so later)
  5. Cruise control feels a bit delayed when accelerating fast, and then suddenly surges
  6. Slight brownish deposit in fuel rail noticed when changing injectors (dirty fuel filter?)
  7. On long trips (I drive 2.5 hours home every weekend) I smell antifreeze (a sweet/pungent smell for 30 seconds) followed by an earthy smell (my guess is oil). No engine or sound changes when this is smelled.
  8. Small leak for power steering near pump pulley gasket (small drops once a week and no change in fluid level noticed over a month interval), but none found for antifreeze/oil (unless it mixed with the power steering drips).

What could the issues be?

My previous CE codes were related to sensor bank 1 reading lean (but that was likely a fuel injector as it's off now).

Could the TCB be dirty/needs to be replaced? I saw that on another forum posting.

To my knowledge, there is no schrader valve to test the fuel pressure. Is there an easy way to test that (as well as the regulator valve)? Would I have to add a section hook-in to the fuel system to test this, due to no schrader?

Thanks! :)


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Old 06-01-2016, 02:26 AM   #2
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1.25-1.35 mm for the plug gap on my '04 duratec, IIRC .045"?? (gotta check that).

EDIT - 1.3mm = 0.051", so that would be OK.

Fuel pressure is easiest to check with a scan tool/code checker - OBD function.

Vibration from passenger side mount is fairly common, noticed first when cold and greater at idle of course. You can jack under the pan slightly with a board to spread the load to see if it goes away. Going away as it warms up is indicative of this.

Engine throttle is adjusted by the IAC for extra alternator load, slight bump when electrical load is reduced B4 that compensates again wouldn't be too strange.

Deposit in fuel rail is just from fuel, brown deposit is normal.

You'll have to keep looking for a small coolant leak, white residue is typical.

P.S. - digital readout of RPM on a scan tool will jump around a bit, does it change enough to hear? (assume no gauge)

Reported from the Odo test function is more stable, hold the reset button in until started then release. press again to change functions while running:Low temperature heater output
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Old 06-01-2016, 03:48 PM   #3
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PCV hose if you've never changed it. Common issue.

Sure hope you saved the old injectors, changing for that small a variance means nothing wrong with them to me. Three TENTHS of an ohm?
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Old 06-02-2016, 12:20 AM   #4
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What are the fuel pressure ranges that are acceptable for this vehicle? The unit son my scanner seems to be in kPa.

The vibration seems to happen regardless of the temperature of the engine. I don't believe it's related to the side mount. How would I definitely check that? (what do you mean by "You can jack under the pan slightly with a board to spread the load"?)

The RPM change is for sure audible, and inconsistent. It seems to steady out for 2 seconds, and then dips down, revs up, and then runs at normal rpm (170) but vibration is higher, then it does a similar loop but at uneven intervals.


And yup, I saved the old parts and verified my new injectors are at 13.5 ohms.
And yeah, but for $80 and to guarantee that's not the issue, im fine paying that (they were very likely dirty and clogged anyways and cleaning them would have cost at least half that).

And which PVC hose and how would I check for a leak?

Edit: I also noticed that during my scan, one of my 02 sensors (S1B1) has erratic readings during idle (it fluctuates between 0.06v all the way up to 0.8v). I believe this could be a symptom of an air leak or a malfunctioning sensor. There are no CE codes however.

Edit edit: Apparently the engine goes into closed loop when idling, so this fluctuation is normal for most vehicles. I noticed that all my 02 sensors don't oscillate, eg: s2b2. Is this normal too? or are ALL supposed to oscillate when in closed loop?

Last edited by richard.duerr; 06-02-2016 at 12:41 AM. Reason: 02 sensor info
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Old 06-02-2016, 01:10 AM   #5
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Should see 40-50 psi roughly.

Lifting the engine just enough to remove the load from the mount stops vibes from it if it's not suspending the engine properly. They sack out to make firmer contact when they age - against the stops. When those stops wear out they get even rougher for vibrations.

PCV hose between engine front and the intake manifold, not easy to get at. Usual vacuum leak test is to put something flammable there and see if idle speed changes, from official propane wand to a substitute like spraying a little starting fluid. some things like carb cleaner could affect it either way - it's the effect you're hoping NOT to see. If any effect, there's a leak somewhere.

O2 sensors are supposed to cycle, the ones after a CAT do so less if the CAT is working to clean up the exh..

Sounds like you're using something like a phone app for a scanner, they don;t tell you what makes sense & what doesn't - reporting things that don't even apply for your car.

'S1B1' would be your primary o2 sensor, the one the engine uses for it's adjustments. S2 & later if equipped are to sense the CAT performance.

S2B2 doesn't exist on your engine, no bank 2 as it's an inline 4 cyl. engine.

P.S. - $80 for 4 injectors??????
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Old 06-02-2016, 01:22 AM   #6
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Hmm, is there some reference for what these mount stops look like, so i can test?

And alright, i can try with some starting fluid (im assuming this is starter fluid used to start wood/charcoal) / carb cleaner and see if that has any effect on idle.

I have a dedicated scanner tool, and it doesn't suggest faults, just what ive bene thinking about trying to figure out oddities.

And yup, it was S2B1 (post-cat sensor). That one shouldnt change much as CC is working.

And yeah it was a price that almost all sellers were selling at for this vehicle, so it seemed fine.

Better than $25 each like some places tried to do.

I saw online that it could be the EGR valve or DPFE sensor. Is that possible? And if so, is there any teardowns showing anything for a 2007 focus? I don't mind getting my hands dirty and cleaning it if it needs it. And would I need to replace any gaskets for this?
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Old 06-02-2016, 01:52 AM   #7
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AZ price on injectors is $54 -$75 EACH, that's why I was shocked at $80 for FOUR.

Don't burn down your engine - it's really not that bad.

Winter starting fluid (ether) for the CAR, if you use that use it in small doses and let it evaporate before trying another location. Just one example of a quick evaporating spray chemical that can be used & might be on hand.

Carb cleaner is often the handy fluid in a shop, safer as well. If you've got MAF cleaner you could try that.


DPFE is a part not on your car, that's a differential pressure sensor to determine if the EGR valve is working on a zetec engine, different type system used there.

EGR on your car (and all) operates only when driving, shouldn't affect idle. Yours is located at the end of the cylinder head, electric & water connections as it's cooled by coolant that flows through from the head. Electric connection includes the sensor to report it's operation, likely OK if no codes for it (haven't seen problems with that).

If you want to see if anything's dirty/hanging up check the IAC on the front side of the manifold right next to the throttle body. Not a common problem on these, unlike the zetec ones. (Idle Air Control, controls idle RPM)

BTW - that's supposed to vary power to handle changes like A/C cutting in, power steering at it's max., alternator loads. If A/C is cycling, RPM can vary a bit even with that trying to compensate - reaction isn't immediate from the engine.
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Old 06-06-2016, 09:04 PM   #8
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Well I bought my injectors online, AZ has inflated prices and doesn't reflect the true market price for parts.

My new injectors all fall within spec and are operating great.

I'll likely try and find a propane torch (and not light it) as a wand to sniff out the leak and watch for idle increases.

A DPFE is ONLY on a zetec engine? Interesting. Didn't know that :)

And the egr only matters when driving / in drive? Even if the egr doesnt close / open properly?

Do you have a diagram of the IAC location (or video / picture)? I'm not sure what it looks like. Is the throttle body near the fuel rail, or on the right side of my engine?

And that makes sense, I assumed it wouldn't spike in igle as much when power is REDUCED, but if it's expected then I won't worry much.
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Old 06-07-2016, 01:08 AM   #9
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EGR stumbles from one working right are only when driving, since that's when it's activated (low throttle cruise stumbles). Your model has an electric actuated type that hasn't had appreciable reported troubles.

Throttle body would be toward the right front of the engine when looking at it standing in front. Your year still has throttle cables, so it's easy to see where they lead and how they move the TB.

IAC is just to the left of that, you'll see a cylindrical piece with a wiring attachment held to the manifold with a couple bolts. Diamond shaped attachment point, when off there are two air ports (one top & one bottom).
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