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Old 01-05-2008, 10:11 PM   #61
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bleed screw is on top of transaxle at the front, follow the tube to find it. It's hard to get a good bleed, I did some initial priming with a small suck tube, looked like a real big syringe with a short clear tube. Got it at wal-mart for a couple bucks and used it to suck on the bleed screw, that got the fluid drawn down in enough that the master cylinder was wetted inside at least.
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Old 01-06-2008, 11:01 AM   #62
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it is wise to bench bleed the CMS. i was told this after the fact. 11mm open end wrench and a friend pumping the pedal.
pump 10 times hold the clutch down and open the nipple a LITTLE. close the nipple and they can pump 10 more times. this will take a while.
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Old 01-06-2008, 12:38 PM   #63
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^
Sounds like a good excuse to invest in a power bleeder...

I bought one a few years ago and never looked back. Easiest way to bleed any part of the hydraulic system, fill it to the line with brake fluid, attach it to the brake fluid reservior, give it a few pumps and then just go open the bleeders and the pressure does the rest. Bled my clutch in about 5 minutes when I did my master cylinder and when I replaced the whole clutch. Best $60 I ever spent.
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Old 01-29-2008, 09:37 PM   #64
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Why is this not stickied?
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Old 02-03-2008, 10:06 AM   #65
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Maybe I am not searching right or am blind, which is possible, but is this even in the How-to Archive? Anyway, I wanted to lend a hand and give out the tools needed list:

Sockets: 13mm (for pedal bracket), 10mm (can be used for MC but will definitely need to be used for removing hose bracket from firewall) and at least a 8in extension (again for pedal bracket and firewall bracket) to go with them
Wrenches: 10mm (opt - will make removing the two bolts holding MC easier if they are rachet-type wrenches - i.e. gearwrenches), 11mm (box end, non rachet) for bleeder screw)

If I am leaving anything else out, please post up.

Damian
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Old 03-03-2008, 05:21 PM   #66
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Did anyone every verify what the updated part number is? I called the Ford dealership down the street and after ten minutes I gave up on them.
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Old 03-03-2008, 05:34 PM   #67
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try mike at hilbish, he should be able to get it for you, i might be getting one from him soon too.
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Old 04-03-2008, 11:03 AM   #68
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hey guys it's me again, since completing the CMC replace Ive had trouble keeping the bolt that keeps the CMC plunger attached to the clutch pedal, because i cannot torque it down enough so that it stays put. Every couple of weeks the outside nut loosens followed by the inside one, then I have some sloppyness in the clutch engagement, so i tighten it down again. Do you guys have any suggestions?
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Old 04-08-2008, 08:25 AM   #69
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Thanks for the tips. I replaced mine with the airbox removal method because I wanted to take the SVT shift lever counter weight off at the same time. I also bench bled the master cylinder before installing it. From start to finish it took about 2 hours tops including one-man-bleeding the clutch line myself and putting tools away. It's nice to finally have that brake fluid stink out of my car!
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Old 04-23-2008, 01:52 PM   #70
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Hello all!

Found this wonderful resource in a pretty simple google search! :D

I have a 2002 ZTS

The Clutch pedal pin's weld snapped and was stressing the white plastic push rod , it finally broke off.

Silly me, I went to the local Ford dealer. I was quoted $930 CDN + tax for the Pedal (simple weld right?) the Clutch Master Cylinder, fluid, and then incredibly the red switch (ignition?)

This thread give me hope.

Any Canadian members reccomend a place to pick up a Clutch Master Cylinder? I was quoted $89 from Ford

Cheers love the site!
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