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Old 11-02-2015, 04:25 AM   #1
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Question Battery light still coming on after repairs need help!!!!!!

I have an 2002 Ford Focus ZX3, about a year ago my battery light kept coming on, so I got the battery checked and had it replaced. Installed it light again came on, took out alternator and had it checked, again had it replaced, then starter went out and had that replaced along with new cables, so I replaced my starter, alternated, battery and battery cables but the battery light continues to stay on. I am not a professional mechanic just a DIY! Would my ignition keythat is broken in half and stuck in the ignition make it so not only does the light keep coming on but the alternator is not charging the battery.

How can I solve this, an advice or anyone else have a problem like this please email me at. Acerojb@gmail.com. or send me an email on here also....

If I cannot solve this problem I am going to have to sell my car, I have no choice...


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Old 11-02-2015, 06:34 AM   #2
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It seems like you need to replace the ignition lock cylinder first- if you have another key. It's a 5 min job in a Ford once you have the lock cylinder keyed to your key.

Your problem is the wiring to the plug-in connector on the alternator. That wiring goes to the voltage regulator, and is where the computer senses the battery/alternator voltage.

Go see a Ford dealer, purchase an alternator pigtail, and replace that back as far into the wiring harness as it will go. Most problems have been found within 1 foot of the alternator in the harness. These are small wires so subject to cracking and damage.
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Old 11-02-2015, 06:42 AM   #3
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PS it is also possible that you have 2 problems.

1) alternator pigtail.

2) store bought alternator more than 3 months old could have a bad regulator.

Replace the pigtail, then use the electronic odometer trick to monitor your voltage while driving the vehicle. That should tell you if the voltage regulator is good. Key off, press and hold the trip odometer reset button. Turn key on while holding button. In a few seconds the odo readout will change to [test], release button, gauge needles will jump around angrily, and odo readout will change to [gage]. Now each time you press and release the reset button you'll scroll through 1-30 test functions. The odometer will remain in test mode until you turn the key off, so you can start and drive with it in test mode. Find the function that changes the alternator display to [bat 12.1]- but it could be 12.2, 12.3, 11.9 etc- whatever your voltage is.

Drive the car, now you're getting alternator voltage. Anything higher than 14.8 or lower than 13 volts is bad. Even if it was 13.4, I'd still call that bad voltage. Ideally the alternator should be pumping out 14.4 when it is needed and at least 13.8 when it is not resupplying used juice.
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Old 11-02-2015, 02:19 PM   #4
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X2 - need to check for what problem you might have first, then IF there is one the pigtail is a common issue that wasn't mentioned as checked.

If the light is ALWAYS on, there's a 'battery sensor fuse' that if blown will leave the light always on. Should be #10 for your car, you can check for that description in the manual or on the fuse box cover.
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