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Old 09-20-2015, 09:30 PM   #1
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P2004 after manifold replaced

Hello all, I've been researching but haven't found an answer to my exact issue. Hoping that someone has some insight.

Took my 2005 ZX3 2.0L with 123,000+ miles to the shop a while back for reduced engine power, they found a code(forget what it was) and replaced the IMRC solenoid. Afterwards, I noticed high rpm after starting and it started throwing the P2004 code. Took it back and they recommended replacing the intake manifold. Took it to another mechanic who tried replacing the vacuum lines & cleaning the existing manifold. Got the code again after a few days so I had the manifold replaced and a new IAC valve for the high rpm on start. Waited 2 days and got the P2004 code again and the high rpm condition reappeared..

My mechanic is now recommending flashing or replacing the ECU. Was wondering if anyone had similar experience or other ideas. Thanks in advance!

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Old 09-21-2015, 12:04 AM   #2
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I'm no expert on the runner control details but I've seen enough to be very wary of reflashing or changing PCM, the odds of fixing the issue drop like a rock doing that. And doing it is often the sign your mechanic is at his limits, it shows he knows nothing else to do. You should know that changing the PCM rarely fixes the issue, the are drop dead reliable unless you know of some certain way they have been faulted like shorting one out or similar. With various people working on car now you have to worry about one of them doing that.

I used to sell reflashed PCMs, 90% of the people who did so came back wanting money back since new computer fixed nothing but once reflashed you pretty much eat it.

Just playing the odds but of course there is always the odd one that HAS busted a PCM. Changing it should always be the dead last thing done though.

You can't get high idle rpm without an air supply, something is physically still wrong or being controlled to be wrong there. Vacuum leak the most common.
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Old 09-21-2015, 12:25 AM   #3
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Yup, P2004 won't affect idle speed - I know from my own for proof.

Even when "stuck" open (actually just didn't close) it only reduces low RPM response slightly by feel. I noticed but some say they feel no difference at all when disabling the system.

You can see if it's operating easily, lever arm behind the throttle body is white and not hard to see move. Check it before starting when it's up, it'll drop out of easy view when the car starts. Rev it up and it pops up again.

Some good long threads on it here for reference, start by seeing if it works at least most of the time.
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