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Old 08-07-2015, 06:14 PM   #1
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2007 ford focus se P0410 P0490 codes (Air Pump System)

Hello, i need help in diagnosing a secondary air injection system. I want to know how to test the diverter valve and check valve?


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Old 08-14-2015, 03:02 PM   #2
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Old 08-14-2015, 10:42 PM   #3
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Don't have any solid answers, check valve should just be a blow through test to see if it works.

For the solenoid valve I can't look at my earlier one now (T-Storm), how many wires to it?

Just a pair I'd guess you could try power/ground to it to see if it functions.
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Old 09-07-2015, 07:37 PM   #4
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Sorry for the delay in replying, as I needed to retackle this issue on my own car and was just able to get to it.

Having had the same error codes set on my car (multiple times) I have a bit of experience in this. It can be one of a few things causing the issue: bad air pump, bad diverter valve, bad fuse, bad relay, or even an incorrect exhaust manifold gasket. Do all of these checks with key off and ideally on a cold engine.

[edit]The basics of these instructions should be good for 2003-2011 Duratec engined vehicles with PZEV, but some information like the fuse and relay locations are specific to "late" 2006 - 2007 vehicles so there may be some differences to your own vehicle.[/edit]

To do this you will need a 16 gauge jumper wire with a 1/4" male spade connector on each side and a Mityvac or similar handheld vacuum pump.

First thing to do is to check the air pump fuse itself in the underhood fuse box (fuse 4 green 30 amp fuse), if it is bad replace it (on my car it blew probably due to extreme cold weather causing moisture in the air pump to freeze and seize up the air pump blowing the fuse, in that case warmer temperatures combined with new fuse and problem has not reoccurred). If the fuse reblows after replacement then it is possible the air pump is faulty.

Air pump fuse


If the fuse is good then the 2nd step would be to check the air pump. You can do that by removing the air pump relay and jumping the pins 30 and 87 of the relay socket. Only do this for a few seconds (and no more than 30 seconds) as the pump is not designed for extended operation as it only runs for about 10 seconds at cold engine startup. Do this with key on engine off.

If you hear the air pump run (it's located behind and under the passenger side headlight, should be able to see it by looking down behind the headlight) then the next step would be to disconnect the input and output hose from the air pump diverter valve and reapply power to the air pump (be sure to aim the hose away from you). I would get a 3/4"-3/4" coupler along with a 3-4 foot section of 3/4" hose as there is probably going to be water buildup in the hose and you want to divert that away from the engine bay. If you have air flow (and probably water flow) there then the air pump is definitely good and time to move on to the next piece the air pump diverter valve.

Air pump relay

Air pump relay socket

Air pump relay socket jumpered


The air pump diverter valve is a vacuum operate valve located on the driver side of the cylinder head, 3 hookups: one for vacuum, one for inlet air, and one for outlet air. If you apply vacuum to the valve you should hear it move, if you don't hear it move it is likely the valve is bad but before replacing it need to do one more check, rehookup the inlet hose and disconnect the exhaust hose (short L shaped hose going from the valve to the air tube coming off the exhaust manifold), apply vacuum to the valve, and jump pins 30 and 87 of the air pump relay socket, you should hear and feel air flowing, but if you don't then it is likely the valve is bad. Be careful with the plastic vacuum line and other small diameter plastic tubes as they are probably a bit brittle with age and can crack and break easily, hence why there is a piece of clear plastic tube on the vacuum line, costs less than a replacement hose/tube assembly :) .

Diverter valve vacuum line with Mityvac hooked up

Inlet hose with drain hose attached


The most unlikely scenario would be there is an incorrect exhaust manifold gasket, but that would only apply if the mani-cat has been removed and/or replaced before. The difference between the standard and PZEV exhaust gasket is the PZEV version is a multilayer gasket that lets air flow into the exhaust when the air pump is activated.

On my own car I have had the diverter valve, air pump fuse, and now the air pump itself be bad.

When I replaced the diverter valve I ended up getting the Standard Auto Parts DV153 from Rock Auro and the part in the box happened to be a Ford OEM part, so saved a bit of money over going though a dealer. I have yet to buy the air pump but Rock Auto shows new OEM for $164 and A-1 Cardone reman for $110 + core.
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Last edited by pcordes1979; 09-21-2015 at 09:08 PM.
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Old 09-08-2015, 12:20 PM   #5
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!! Fantastic work Peter. I am definitely going to bookmark this thread. Great help for anyone with SAI problems.


Quote:
Originally Posted by pcordes1979 View Post
... It can be one of a few things causing the issue: bad air pump, bad diverter valve, bad fuse, bad relay, or even an incorrect exhaust manifold gasket...
For future lookers, also note that the diverter valve is vac operated AND electrically controlled by the SAI bypass solenoid. You covered so much, but made no comments about this solenoid; so wanted to add this to the list of items that could cause the SAI to fail.

BTW - The PCM controls both the Relay and the Solenoid simultaneously, not individually.

For anyone wanting additional info about the PZEV SAI exhaust manifold gasket Peter mentioned above, here is a thread that covers that->
correct exhaust gasket solves P0411
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Old 09-08-2015, 11:43 PM   #6
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Yippeeee!!! I got my first (Focus) CEL tonight!!

Ironic and almost spooky is that the CEL/code is almost exactly like this thread -P0411.

With the help of Peters' post above, and my wire diagram book, and beer, I hope to figure out my code problem before buying a part. <wish me luck>.

-dang, just replace my engine oil the night before...
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Old 09-10-2015, 04:11 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marde View Post
Yippeeee!!! I got my first (Focus) CEL tonight!!
...
After driving with the P0411 code for two days, I just jumped on this and... the fault jumped off the car right after I started working on it. Poof! Gone.

Here is some good info for others chasing one of these problems. The test below will prove-out a chunk of this system.

Place multimeter into pin-1 back-probed of the SAI bypass solenoid connector. Back-probe is easy with a sewing needle or similar item. Connector stays connected to the solenoid. Pin-1 is the PCM controlled ground side of the solenoid.
Key On = 12 Volts on meter
Start engine = Stays at 12 V for about 4 seconds (also might jump up to 14 V as the Alt comes online). About 4 seconds after the engine starts, the signal drops to less than 1 volt. This drop is the PCM controlling the SAI system to turn On. It stays this way for about 8 seconds then returns to 14 V because the PCM turned off the SAI system.

This test does not prove if the Relay or Pump is operating, nor does it prove that the Diverter valve is really working properly, but it does prove-out a portion of the control side.

After I did this test, the dam CEL was gone. Strange. The only thing I really did was briefly disconnect the connector for the solenoid... oh, and I had pulled/reinstalled the fuse before the test. I almost hope it comes back... hmmmm?

BTW my 2004 is configured different than the 2006 pics Peter posted above-> my pump relay is in a different location. Which also means there are several other relays in different locations between the years. Yeah, no surprise there.
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Old 12-14-2015, 09:33 PM   #8
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THANK YOU THANK YOU When my daughter brings car back I'LL try it and text you back 1oldfordman
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Old 03-28-2016, 01:37 PM   #9
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Adding this update to help others with SAI issues.

One very easy way to check if the pump is running ok is-> disconnect the hose at spot ID'ed in picture.

Start engine, wait 4 seconds, then (feel for air flow) the pump will run for about 8 seconds, then the pump turns off, done.

The air flow should be impressive, is not a weak air flow.

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Old 03-28-2016, 07:19 PM   #10
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Different years of vehicles have different setups in regards to the hose that comes from the air pump to the diverter valve. Accessing it at the diverter pump is probably easier to access as it is right up by the valve cover instead of below the intake tubing.

My 2006 doesn't have that particular hose/tube setup but from what I can tell is a hose that goes straight from the air pump to the valve.

So probably changed sometime between the 2003-04 2.3L PZEV vehicles and the 2005-07 PZEV vehicles.

Also note the vinyl hose and coupler were just used to prevent a stream of water from going everywhere when the air pump was activated.
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