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Old 03-30-2015, 06:43 PM   #1
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Boot has hole No Clicking Yet

Today I took off the snow tires.

When I changed the driver's side front tire I saw that there was a 1/2" hole in the CV boot. I stuck a philips head screw driver through the hole and there seemed to be plenty of grease in the boot.

I spent some time reading about the difficulty to replace this axle on these vehicles. I don't seem to have any joint damage (at this time), so I am wondering if there is a way to repair or replace this outer boot (outer meaning beside the wheel) that does not involve removing the cv axle from the MTX transmission?

Normally, I understand that it makes more sense to replace the axle. But, I've read here how difficult that can be.

I watched a video where a guy separated the CV joint, but he held the axle in a vise. I wonder if I could do that with the axle still installed in the transmission, and then get a new boot on there. What do you thinK?


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Old 03-30-2015, 08:01 PM   #2
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Ive used those quick boots before on previous cars and what a pain. You need to get or rent cv clamp pliers and if you lost enought grease those axle joints wont hold up for long even after regreasing them. Just did both axles on my snow belt 03 svt with 136k all original. Honestly wasnt too bad did it in the driveway sunday. Just rent a cv axle socket from a parts store and really all youll have to do is remove the pinch bolt from the knuckle to strut and have a rubber mallet or rubber dead blow. Just buy new a new axle and might as well do a new output shaft seal while your at it. Parts will be alot easier to get a hold of with the mtx75 than the getreg for sure.
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Old 03-31-2015, 06:36 PM   #3
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Quick boots are utter wanton garbage, sorry. The rubber will no way last as long as a true boot and that provided you can keep it from leaking. I never sold one at the parts store that wasn't back for refund in like ten minutes.

ONLY way-yank axle and change it or the boot, the boot will cost what the axle does.

Depending on how much dirt you run through you got a little while before it tears up. I've driven one as long as 3 months before, a slit that didn't really let much dirt enter, yanked axle and new boot (back when they were easy to find and $8) and after good and clean axle ran another 15 years.
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Old 03-31-2015, 06:50 PM   #4
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Thanks for the info. No way I would take it out without replacing it altogether, but it does seem odd that there isn't a reliable fix for what starts off so minor.

Are there seals in my MTX manual transmission that should be replaced when the axles are replaced? I've seen it recommended, but couldn't find the part.
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Old 03-31-2015, 07:14 PM   #5
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Funny thing about the seals. Yeah its recommended to replace them and even the dealership has to "special order" them. If they are supposed to be replaced how come axles are stock but not seals? Anyway I changed both axles about a month ago and did not change seals. All is good and dry. Just be careful not to damage. I did both at the same time. I drove the driver out from the pass side. Even if you don't replace the passenger side I still would remove to gain access. It is a rather simple job once you get going. The thing that made it easy for me was using an air hammer to drive the axle out if the knuckle.
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Old 03-31-2015, 09:00 PM   #6
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Generally it is considered best practice to change which ever axle seal the axle comes out of if high mileage. Axle boots not sold any more because the axles are close to the same price and no need for the inventory space for all those extra parts either. They take the idea from others now, or the bundling thing; you make far more profit by forcing people to buy things they don't need in order to get the one they do. Ford leads the way there like usual and why I don't buy parts from them any longer.
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Old 03-31-2015, 09:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
Quick boots are utter wanton garbage, sorry. The rubber will no way last as long as a true boot and that provided you can keep it from leaking. I never sold one at the parts store that wasn't back for refund in like ten minutes.

ONLY way-yank axle and change it or the boot, the boot will cost what the axle does.

Depending on how much dirt you run through you got a little while before it tears up. I've driven one as long as 3 months before, a slit that didn't really let much dirt enter, yanked axle and new boot (back when they were easy to find and $8) and after good and clean axle ran another 15 years.
This ^^^^ plus no idea how long you've been driving it w/ a ripped boot & debris in the c/v. Depending on your budget, I'd just replace the whole axle vs a boot kit. Where I work we don't sell boot kits.
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