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Old 01-02-2015, 01:28 PM   #1
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Need Help!! Battery keeps dying.

Any help would be much appreciated.

So my car keeps dying. I have checked the battery and the alternator, connections are fine and car does charge. Here is the thing my car has a 177-185mA draw at rest. As a couple of you know I have a fairly large stereo system in my car. I have checked everything that has to do with the audio system, alarm system, cell phone module and tracking unit. All of that adds up to about 68mA of draw which is normal for the stuff that is installed. It has also been fine for the past 2 years that the equipment has been in the car. The problem has just started about two weeks ago and I have to jump it almost every time I have to drive it. I have pulled every fuse to see if something has a lot of draw. Everything checks out except for one fuse. It is a 30A fuse under the hood (number 8 fuse) and it states that it is for Ignition switch, starter solenoid. If I pull that one it accounts for around 65-70mA of draw at rest. Does anyone know what other circuits are controlled by that fuse. Is there something that I am missing. Any suggestions will help. I am at the point to where I might even just dump the car because I am so frustrated. Thanks everyone.

Also it is an 07 SE with 42k miles


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Old 01-02-2015, 05:57 PM   #2
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Yeah just dump it. If you did not live in the rust belt I would give you $200 for it.
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Old 01-02-2015, 05:59 PM   #3
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Of course you could buy a wiring diagram.
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Old 01-03-2015, 07:41 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffrosilver07 View Post
...my car has a 177-185mA draw at rest.
If you are measuring this draw right after the car is shut off, then it is normal. You have to wait several minutes (about 5 or so) for the PCM to go to sleep.
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Old 01-03-2015, 11:40 AM   #5
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If its the original battery replace it
If you have ran the battery down low enough to need a boost several times it is likely shot

I would remove the battery and fully charge
Let the battery rest over night then test with a carbon pile battery tester

I have virtually no faith in the new electronic battery testers that just about everyone uses now
I find they are horribly unreliable
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Old 01-04-2015, 10:58 PM   #6
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My 06 SE had about 52k on it when it started having problems starting. Had a little quickie service center do an electrical test and they said the battery was bad. Took it back to my dealership, they thought it was the battery too, so they replaced it. Still had starting problems after that. They finally figured out it was the idle air control valve. I'm not a mechanic by any means, but maybe you could check on your IACV?
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Old 01-05-2015, 12:43 AM   #7
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IACV can cause a starting problem, not related to a battery draining or not charging.

Slow or no cranking is a different issue than not starting well when it cranks over fine.
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Old 01-05-2015, 01:12 PM   #8
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When you say the alternator is charging, how are you checking this? Reason i'am asking is that i too was having a battery drain problem and during my initial troubleshooting my multi meter showed alt was charging fine voltage wise. It also passed the quickie test they do at the parts stores that's performed while your car is running. However when i removed the alternator and had it bench tested, it failed. While voltage was fine, it was only putting out like 20 amps. Mine was suppose to be around 130.

FocusKnot is right on letting the car sit for awhile before checking for parasitic draw. Also to do it properly, a jumper box or spare battery is needed so you can hook multimeter inline without breaking the power circut otherwise you'll get a false high draw reading when some of the electronics wake back up upon sensing power. On my 06 i could get around this by leaving my meter hooked up inline for a couple of minutes before taking readings during which time those electronics would go back to sleep. Not sure if is the same on an 07, i've heard on some cars one has to wait 20min or more after reconnecting the bat via the meter.
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Old 01-05-2015, 09:52 PM   #9
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The alternator is fine because I charged the battery and it was sitting at roughly 12.2 volts after starting the car the voltage jumped to about 14.6 and was stable.

As far as letting the car sit before testing we found that in my car it takes about 30 min before my car is at full rest because of all the other components I have in the car as far as the stereo equipment/processors. The initial 180ma draw was after about 10 mins (wasn't aware that my processor took so damn long to shut down.) After a lot of testing we found that one of the accessories to my alarm was failing. I didn't think to check it the first time around because I thought I had removed it a long time ago. The accessory was a auto unlock device when I get within proximity of my car. That unit was drawing 40mA. So now at full rest my car sits at 88-94 mA. My other problem I think is that I don't drive my car far enough in a day. I work a mile from my house so my battery never really gets to charge and plus it has been very very cold these past couple weeks. I drove it a lot friday it started fine on saturday. Didn't drive it at all on Sunday and it was dead this morning. I'm going to drive it a lot this week and see if that helps.

Thanks for the quick responses everyone.
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Old 01-06-2015, 01:05 AM   #10
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have you had your battery load tested yet Jeff?
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