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Old 11-21-2014, 07:15 PM   #1
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Power window often doesn't go down

Hi all,

I've had this issue for quite some time where the power window on the driver door won't go down. It will always go up, but going down has been more and more of a struggle, it seems. About a week ago the cable in the regulator got caught, so I replaced that hoping the problems going down was just a precursor to a regulator issue, and I'd be all done with that problem.

Nope. Replaced the regulator, plugged in the switched, press the down button. Didn't budge. Pressed the up button just to get it up a little (that's what she said) and that was fine.

So, it must be the switch, right? Not necessarily. Since Ford wants drug money for the master power window switch, I went to my trusty u-pull. It went down the first time I pressed the button after installing, but that was the only time it worked. Still seems to go up just fine, of course.

I did just realize (really, as I write this) that I still haven't put the glass in after replacing the regulator. Maybe the weight of that has some use? I doubt it, but who knows. Anyway... any ideas where to go next?


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Old 11-21-2014, 07:27 PM   #2
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Yep, I thought that was just bad contacts inside the switch. Strange. I had a similar problem, but it was only dirty contacts inside that switch.

I also replaced the drivers side regulator; my old one blew-up, made a mess of the cable n pulleys. There is some slack in the cable without a window installed, so I hope your new regulator did not tweak itself during ops while no window was installed. hmmm? Good luck.
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Old 11-21-2014, 07:37 PM   #3
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Well, if it's a fairly common problem, I'm sure the odds of me picking a bad part is quite probable! How did you clean it? Since I've got 2, I don't mind trying stuff out on my junkyard part.
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Old 11-21-2014, 09:09 PM   #4
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One window + intermittently (or always?) not going down AND same thing when using a different master switch = that is not a bad switch. -or Vegas odds of .000032% to One.

Who knows... here is a recent quote about my adventure. Check the link inside.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marde View Post
I was able to remove and open-up the master switch assembly. Once inside it, use some sandpaper in-between the electrical contacts. Fixed mine.

Yours is a newer design, so I'm unsure if you can do the same.

A little too wordy, but here's the thread with a few pics->
04 Drivers side power window switch replacement
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Old 11-22-2014, 03:51 PM   #5
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There absolutely should be NO slack in cable on a regulator say just out of the box. If so it should derail the cable shortly thereafter. Why there is spring at the ends to keep it tight. When reassembling (I rebuild mine for pennies) you should have fits getting the cable strung back up at the last point since it will be TIGHT.

And trying to work the regulator with no window weight in it???? You are killing me. Anyone with a lick of sense should be able to look at that assembly and instantly realize the weight is needed to make it work.
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Old 11-22-2014, 04:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
There absolutely should be NO slack in cable on a regulator say just out of the box.
No sense in arguing, we must be talking apples verses oranges. Straight out of the box, my new Dorman regulator was a floppy spider, folded-over and cables flopping around like a fish outta water. Once installed, I guess the cables are not very loose, -maybe tight, -so maybe I miss-spoke. Sorry. Can't clearly remember now... I thought the weight of the window stiffened-up the cables some? No need to answer, just talking out loud now.
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Old 11-22-2014, 05:10 PM   #7
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They fold the assembly to get it in the box BUT the actual cable ends must be tight in the 'X' there, that is the only thing that keeps cable on the pulleys, trust me on this. You can't get cables much tighter without breaking the plastic parts and what usually derails them, the plastic breaks to allow loose to get in there and the next time window switch worked the whole thing wads up in a mess.

Quick test, if you can push hand firmly out on window and detect any more than the slightest delay (slack) as window goes down looseness is there and the assembly has cracked up a part to be about to come apart. Half inch? Give it up, broken, just hasn't derailed yet, and coming shortly.

I've rebuilt like 5 of these now. The cheap plastic cable end inserts and window clips break faster than spit, I use metal cable ends and that problem solved but the complexity of the window clips pretty much rules out an easy metal fix for them.
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Old 02-07-2015, 10:28 PM   #8
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Sorry to make a zombie thread, but I do have a few small things to bring up.

First of all, I did later notice in the instructions for the regulator that it said to adjust the height BEFORE attaching the glass so you can reach the screws properly. Also, this is the kind of switch where I can press halfway to lower the window, or all the way to lower it to the bottom even when I let go. Cool? Cool.

That said, I'm still having the issue. However, I did notice that if I hold the button down all the way, it usually does start to open within about 10 seconds. Normally I would think that means some kind of a derailment as amc49 talked about, but I don't hear the motor even trying to run. And it runs perfectly 100% of the time when I press the button to raise the window, so I would imagine if it can't go down easily, it would also have trouble going up! Plus, if I press the button halfway in (to lower it until I let go) it doesn't seem to ever lower, no matter how long I hold it.

So, obviously it's a switch issue, right? Not necessarily. I pulled apart the switch assembly, and took out the 2-action switch used to lower the window (including all the way). It was perfectly responsive under a multimeter.

Now I'm out of ideas. Does anybody have any other suggestions with what I said in mind? Wiring, grounding, something else?
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Old 02-08-2015, 12:28 PM   #9
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EDIT: This post was made in error because I totally forgot that the OP had previously replaced the master switch. Sorry, my bad.

------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by spongebue View Post
So, obviously it's a switch issue, right? Not necessarily. I pulled apart the switch assembly, and took out the 2-action switch used to lower the window (including all the way). It was perfectly responsive under a multimeter.
Quote below is from the thread I linked earlier in this thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marde View Post
This was a "load induced open circuit". Drivers side control signals of Voltage and Ground was good while monitoring at the passenger side connector using a DVM. However, when adding the load of the passenger side window motor -and while using the drivers side controls the Hot side would drop off.
Testing the switch with a multimeter (continuity) is exactly what I did at the beginning of troubleshooting. Then I did some voltage tests and caught the little bugger. Once the load of the motor is added (and current attempts to flow) a poor connection turns-into an OPEN circuit. A "poor connection" can sometimes pass a continuity test perfectly and fool you.

Clean the switch contacts with sandpaper. Something like 400 grit. If you fold the sandpaper in half, you can slide it between the switch contacts and you will be cleaning both sides at the same time.
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Last edited by Marde; 02-09-2015 at 12:41 PM.
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Old 02-09-2015, 12:00 AM   #10
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Check all contacts, just because they look fine means nothing. Often removing a multiple pin harness can have one or more of the pins then have loose contact to the receiver female fitting, I often rebend them to make positive contact again. Use like a dentist pick or other fine point tool to dig into the connector and rebend things closer so pin definitely squeezes into metal there.
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