has anyone changed their rear brake drums?
wtf size is the nut under the dust cap to get the stupid drum off!
is the bastard metric or something?
i've been back and forth to the hardware store twice now... tried 1", 1"1/8, and 1"1/4
1"1/4 is too big 1"1/8 is too small... wtf?
and the haynes manual i have doesn't give wrench sizes... bastards.
i need to get this done tonite and the parts stores are going to close soon... i'm going to go insane.
spent an hour just trying to find the right tool to take this ******g thing off.
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1-1/8" = 28.6mm = too small
1-1/4" = 31.8mm = too big
sounds to me like a 1-3/16" socket (not real common but they exist, I've got one in my Taiwanese 3/4" drive set) or a 30mm which is real close to the same thing.
the drum does not have a nut holding it on, that nut is the wheel bearing do not loosen it up. make sure the e-brake is off and get a big rubber mallet and smack the drum that will loosen the dirt up and you should be able to pull it right off. the lug nuts on the tire hold the drum on not that nut!
1-1/8" = 28.6mm = too small
1-1/4" = 31.8mm = too big
sounds to me like a 1-3/16" socket (not real common but they exist, I've got one in my Taiwanese 3/4" drive set) or a 30mm which is real close to the same thing.
the drum does not have a nut holding it on, that nut is the wheel bearing do not loosen it up. make sure the e-brake is off and get a big rubber mallet and smack the drum that will loosen the dirt up and you should be able to pull it right off. the lug nuts on the tire hold the drum on not that nut!
have you seen the drums on these cars?
the bearings are loaded into the drum.
and since my bearing is the real problem that i'm fixing by putting on a new drum (bearing pre-loaded); i need to take that off anyway.
the rear bearing disintegrated on friday... the wheel will wobble about 1/4" now.
welp... two new drums & bearings on the car... runs smooth as butter and quiet as a whisper... and i assure you fritotec, from my looking at things, there is no way to get the drum off without taking off the wheel nut.
the bearings are loaded into the drum from the inside, and the wheel studs are part of the drum itself.
little tip for anyone that is messing with their drums:
if the drum refuses to come off after removing the wheel nut. screw the wheel back onto the rusted and stubborn drum, then pull evenly on the tire... slides right off.
after much hollaring and fussing with the one that was tight i came up with this idea, works like a champ.
heh, yeah... the most frustrating part of the whole job was finding the right tool.
only took an hour once i had the proper equipment.
but isn't that always the case with car repairs.
When my car was relatively new, I tried to get the wheels off, but the rust, tight interferance fit, etc wouldn't allow it. Backed off each lugnut one full turn, and drove a circle each way, and it freed both wheels up. Remember to clean both the drum and wheel interface surface, and apply a little antiseize. I would assume that the drums could be freed up with the same procedure on whatever fasteners are involved.
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