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Old 08-29-2013, 10:48 PM   #21
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Either way I'd do it around 70-80K miles anyway. rubber deteriorates over age.
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:58 PM   #22
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I really need help here!! No compression.

AutoZone seems to think that the 2003 2.0 DOHC engine has a timing chain.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...96b43f802e8008
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:17 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milton View Post
AutoZone seems to think that the 2003 2.0 DOHC engine has a timing chain.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...96b43f802e8008
I didn't see anywhere on the page where it said 2003, but maybe I scrolled right past it. Either way the VIN codes on that are for the Duratec variants. The images are all for the Duratec as well.

VIN code 3 is for the Zetec.
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Old 08-30-2013, 03:41 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikebontoft View Post
I didn't see anywhere on the page where it said 2003, but maybe I scrolled right past it. Either way the VIN codes on that are for the Duratec variants. The images are all for the Duratec as well.

VIN code 3 is for the Zetec.
Your entirely right, I wasn't trying to suggest his engine has a timing chain. Just that the AutoZone site has bugs. You specify a VIN 3 and they show guides for differing engines for R&R of "camshaft & valve lifters", "camshaft, bearings, & lifters", "timing belt" or "timing belt & tensioner".

In regards to this vehicle, he's pulling the head so he's removing the timing belt so he should do a complete timing belt replacement (belt, tensioner, etc.). Since he's not sure of the cause everything that touches the timing belt should be examined.
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Old 08-30-2013, 06:26 PM   #25
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Man, when I worked for one of the 'big two' I found so many incorrect listings on parts it was unreal. In many cases they were years behind in correct data there.
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Old 09-28-2013, 09:29 PM   #26
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ok....update. i pulled the head. all intake valves were bent. took it to the machine shop. they rebuilt it. i installed the head and retimed it. again and again. it starts up and runs ok for a few minutes, kinda rough but nothing horrible. then the cel comes on with codes 1518 and 1383. so i timed it again. cel came on after a few minutes again..... any ideas now?
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Old 09-29-2013, 01:51 AM   #27
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.............
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:40 AM   #28
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amc49, I dont know why you deleted your post of "your not timing it right, should be obvious". I am doing everything correctly. now if you have any tricks or tips, Id be more than happy to indulge you. or is there anyone else that can help me out here.
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Old 09-29-2013, 07:49 AM   #29
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this is how im timing it: rotating cams until bar fits into the slots. rotating crank until just shy of tdc then inserting pin into hole. rotating crank until it hits the pin. installing timing belt. tightening tensioner(with tab in the slot) until the allen hole is at about the 4 o clock position, and the belt is nice and tight. pulling the bar and the pin. rotating the crank manually a few times and making sure the bar slides into the slots on the cams when rotated to tdc.........is that wrong??????????????????????
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:16 PM   #30
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VCT makes a whole 'nother ball game, the cam with the VCT moves as the motor is turned, the valvetrain holds it back since it can move separately from its' sprocket. If you loosened the VCT sprocket you can get camtool in back of cam and it still not be right because cam is not right with sprocket.

'and making sure the bar slides into the slots on the cams when rotated to tdc.........'

That is right as far as it goes BUT you also add that the VCT must be guaranteed on the end stop as well.

On VCT you have to have tool in backs of cams, crank on the TDC pin and VCT at the end stop position. It's pretty dang touchy, but I guess you know that now.


I dropped the initial post because I was approaching it in the wrong frame of mind, pardon me.
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