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Reverse lights not working please help

17K views 26 replies 12 participants last post by  brown9335 
#1 ·
i have a 2001 zx3 5 speed. the reverse lights will not work. i have jumped the switch and still nothing. i used a test light on the wiring plug going to the switch and nothing.... i checked the fuse, #53 in the panel under the dash, its fine. bulbs are new. is their any other switch or relay besides the reverse switch on the transmission under the air box and the fuse under the dash? if anyone can help me solve the issue. ive read lots of threads that say jump the switch to see if thats the problem, i done that and nothing.... so i tested to see if im getting power to the switch, im not... next step i pulled the fuse again to make sure. its fine replaced with a new one just to be sure. still no luck... any help???
 
#5 ·
im not even worried about the possible cracked wiring in the hatch i have no power at all even to the switch. the rest of the tail lights brake lights work. i have to get power to the switch before it will even b possible to test the wiring on the other side of the the hatch boot... sooo aggravated
 
#13 ·
every rear light on the car works EXCEPT the reverse lights. licenses plate blinkers park lights break lights they all work. I pulled the switch on the tranny and jumped the plug and the lights still did not work... I tested the plug with a light tester and nothing... so far all I know is they are no power going to the reverse light switch on the transmission
 
#10 ·
Do the license plate lights work? If not the most likely the culprit is the bundle of wires coming from the body side of the hatch to the hatch. The tail/brake lights come from a bundle of wires that do not pass through the hatch. Rust-belt corrosion is also a likely culprit. Get some dielectric grease and simply remove the connector, to break the corrosion bond, and liberally schmear the grease on the connector. My 2¢ GL
 
#19 ·
Round and round in circles we go...................if you have no power at the switch you must go further back and find out why. The car not gonna fix itself. You bother to test for power at switch but not earlier in circuit at fuse position, or goofy. Depending on how the circuit is run, it may pass power through the switch or simply switch to ground, or right back at fixing the hatch harness where they commonly break like others said. Just because everything else works means nothing, one wire generally breaks first then others, chaosian theory at its' finest. Funny to watch a ten cent circuit like this drive people nuts.
 
#24 ·
by reading tons of posts it appears that most people solve their problem by simply replacing the switch. i may replace it anyway but i feel like the problem is deeper than that since i get no current to either of the wires in the plug going to the switch.. ive also heard people talking about another switch under the shifter boot?? perhaps in a different model or transmission?
 
#26 ·
The reverse switch is just that a switch. It will not have power. It passes power thru it. Put your tester on volt DC. One test lead from the test meter on the batter + and one test lead on one of the conducters of the switch. If it reads 0V the move the + test lead to the ( - ) side of the batter and test both conductors. You will have to have the key switch to "on" to get power to the switch. If you put both potinals on the switch, you will either ruin the switch if its good, melt the wire, or ruin something else tied to the switch.
 
#27 ·
Read this post. I have same problem. Did you find anything? I've done all you've done plus checking the pop up inside the transmission that presses the ball bearing switch while the sensor was removed. I'm stuck too. Please share if you figure it out. I'll do the same on my end.
 
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