This means it's happened at some point but hasn't happened X number of times yet to flag, but also has happened enough that it hasn't cleared itself.
I don't hear misfiring, video of idle, pushing the throttle, let me know if it sounds off I guess please:
P0351 -- Ignition Coil A Primary circuit fault
Probably a random misfire, were the problem is just starting to occur...
Duratecs don't have ignitions coils... but independent coils I think... Might be a short, a bad spark plug, heck some new spark plug boot grease might fix it...
I don't have a clue how those things work... but have the plugs ever been replaced?
OK now that i think about it, couple days ago I was speeding up in a 65, and like I can do when I'm just opening it up, i went from 1,2,3,5 skipping 4. This caused a rumble (didn't think of it as misfiring at the time), let off gas for a bit, then back on and it was gone.
I have since tried skipping again and nothing happened.
Um and bought it used, so no clue if spark plugs have ever been replaced. Might just do it, prolly need it at 87k.
To elaborate on CotyM's response:
P0351 Through P0360 - Ignition Coil A through J Primary/ Secondary Circuit Malfunction
Each ignition primary circuit is continuously monitored. The test fails when the PCM does not receive a valid IDM pulse signal from the ignition module (integrated in PCM).
Open or short in Ignition START/RUN circuit
Open coil driver circuit in harness
Coil driver circuit shorted to ground
Coil driver circuit shorted to PWR
This DTC code is almost always due to a fault within the coil or a break in the wiring going to the plastic coil electrical connector. Look for chafed, broken or corroded wiring in the three wires going into the back of the coil connector. The two outer wires are thin gauge and prone to breaking after long exposure to heat, vibration, moisturre, etc.
I looked at all 4 coils on plugs. They all seem to be in good condition (the wires). All have shrink heat tube then inside the like plastic ribbed stuff that keeps wires together. I really don't want to remove the shrink tubing. Would have to find more and redo it all. Unless you think I should.
Is there a way with a meter to test the wires, like unplug from each coil?
So if it's in the coil itself, do I have to wait till the actual code fires instead of pending to determine which coil is bad? And is it generally $100 for a replacement Coil?
EDIT: OK explain to me how my auto parts store wants $100 for 1, and on ebay for 4, http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Ignition...a41f49&vxp=mtr like $50. I mean the $50 even say lifetime. I know that can mean shoddy at times, but still.
SHODDY, but hey for $50 bucks, if it works 2 years, it works 2 years and you can buy another 6 sets and still save money... I wouldn't trust the warranty you'd have to jump through hoops to get them to give you 1 replacements.. If it don't work, your out of luck...
Yeah I know. Just wish I knew they were going for good. Found a set of 4 with 4 bosch iridium spark plugs for $68.00. I don't know. Still going through all the ebay listings.
OK. Going to remove each boot tonight. Clean. Install new spark plugs.
I removed each connection this morning. I didn't see any fraying/cut wires at the connections. Each wire is only exposed like 1/4" before it goes into connector on one end and into this hard plastice wrapped in electrical tape it feels like.
BTW, side note if I use anti-seize on the spark plugs/bolts, how much torgue do I remove?
Also, could you check out:
They seem less shoddy then the others.
Claim to be Wells. Which at least I've heard of that brand. The first one has 99.8% feedback and looking at neg/neutral only 1 was about bad coils, with response from seller about replacement. Most of the others I've looked at had a bunch about coils not fitting/bad. Second one is 99.6% and neg/neutral is all about shipping delay's, 1 is about a bent coil.
So I may go with 1 or the other of these 2 if I need to buy a coil.
Problem is I've never heard of 99% of these brands. Even the more expensive ones.
ADP, AIP, Denso, Delphi, Treperformance, MPG, ORIGINAL ENGINE MGMT, IMC, etc.
Like I don't want to buy from advance/auto zone. I got same exact front spring/strut assembly for like 60% less (in fact everything is 20-60% less for same exact brand part normally then advance/auto from online), but even what they list I have no clue if it's any good. BWD? Only option available.
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