Sitting in college parking lot and turned on lights just to see if they would turn on (been having electrical problems) noticed the rpm's drop and heard it too pulled on fogs and dropped more. Turn blower on to 4 dropped to almost 600 then a relay type clicking sound was made in engine bay and rpm's spiked back up to keep it from stalling out. I have been having trouble with gauges last couple of days the keep on doing the sweep or get stuck all the way maxed or stuck at minimum. I figured this rpm dropage migh be linked? What are some ppl's thoughts? (Sorry if I'm in wrong area of forums on my IPhone in car and going off memory for forum category) I was think IAC or maybe Alt but did a load test here at school and alt passed it. Also my battery light (charging system) keeps coming on and off. Hope someone knows what's wrong not taking to a shop becuz one hate doing that and two just spent all my $ on a SPA turbo kit for the car.
02-19-2013 12:13 PM
Try a new battery?
02-19-2013 06:31 PM
Just got a new one 4 weeks ago it tested fine plus battery is for the intial start of car the alt takes over from there and the battery does very little to none while car is running
02-19-2013 11:31 PM
OK so the relay sound I am getting with my gauges clicks on and off simultaneously with the door "open" light. my door is closed shut all the way when my dome light is set to turn on with opened car doors it will shut on and off while door is shut. So I will start with this and hunt this electrical problem down, tired of my gauges telling me I'm doing 170mph + and at 8K rpm here's some pics of the driver side latch which is clearly not how it should be! http://http://s1301.beta.photobucket...50bcc.jpg.html http://s1301.beta.photobucket.com/us...664d1.jpg.html
I fixed your title spelling error, you might get more responses now.
You just got a battery 4 weeks ago, and now you're having serious voltage problems. You should inspect your battery terminals to be sure those are both tight and clean. A battery terminal cleaning tool is like $1 at parts stores. It's like a little cap with steel wires inside to brush off the round terminal. Hopefully you still have your factory clamps. Those are great, undo the nut on the top a few turns, tap nut and stud down, wiggle, and remove.
If the battery terminals are ok, then you might have a problem with the alternator output. Try this: Key off, press and hold trip odometer reset button, turn key on, continue to hold button until the odometer reads [test]. You're now in odometer test mode. It will remain in test mode until you turn the key off. Each time you press and release the odo reset button, you will scroll through one of 30 test functions. Look for the one that reads [bat 12.1], or if your battery voltage is lower the numbers will be different. Start the car without turning it off, and drive. Now you'll be reading your alternator output. If voltage is not within 13.8-14.9 volt range, then your alternator is bad. Lower voltage means the battery won't charge, higher voltage is dangerous to the entire electrical system. Both mean that you will need a new alternator.
You can also check the other end of the battery terminal wires, but typically those are not loose. The hot will go to the starter and alternator, and the ground will go to the engine. There will also be 2 small ground wires that go to the chassis and the underhood fuse box if I'm not mistaken.
02-20-2013 06:56 AM
Hey thank you I typed that up on my phone and noticed afterwards, I cleaned up battery already and those grounds under the stock air box filter, I took a volt meter to battery reads 12.6V and Alt runs anywhere from 15.0V (no accsesories) to 14.8V. I didn't know about the gauges though, thank you! I still think the door strikers have something to do with this like stated above last night. Thank you for all the information!