If you would like anymore background on this problem I have another thread "knocking noise after timing belt". So I damaged the original crank pulley by not properly torquing after replacing a timing belt. I torqued the replacement (dorman brand) to 95 ft lbs. after about 50 miles knocking noise started to come back. Found a slight wobble in pulley again removed for closer inspection and found crank was flush with pulley. I machined a washer to fit inside the pulley and clear the crank torqued it down and went to start car. Starter engaged with a clunk, twice. Put a breaker bar on pulley and couldn't turn engine over by hand, took out bolt and found crank almost flush with the new washer (washer is .140 thick) So what had happened was the pulley had pulled down tight against the engine keeping it from turning. So my question is how is the crank out this far??? Did I loose a spacer when I did the timing belt? I had a response to my previous thread saying the crank pulley contacts the the timing belt sprocket with nothing in between is this correct? Has anyone else had problems with a dorman pulley? I had a friend who had heard of other engines dropping a thrust washer inside the engine allowing the crank to walk, is this what I am experiencing? I am confused, to say the least! I am tempted to cut a keyway into my washer and put it behind the pulley but don't feel it's the correct repair. Any help is greatly appreciated to say the least. Thanks in advance.
02-01-2013 06:23 PM
Sounds like you crushed the thrust washer
02-01-2013 06:44 PM
Fantastic!!! So basically a full bottom end rebuild?
02-01-2013 06:51 PM
Who's got a zetec??
02-02-2013 03:34 AM
Did you use an impact gun the first time around?
02-02-2013 04:49 AM
The crank pulley CAN'T go on too far if correct parts used. There are three or maybe four, the outside washered bolt that holds it all together, the pulley itself, and the cambelt sprocket which can be one or two pieces. This on zetec.
The sprocket: two pieces if the actual sprocket has the teeth run off either end, that one requires a washer behind it, the washer keeps belt from walking off the backside of gear teeth. The one piece sprocket has that washer built into it, the teeth only run off on one end, the other end is bigger so it again keeps belt in place. Either sprocket should be marked 'outside', putting on incorrectly could fudge things up. The two piece sprocket when put together is the same thickness as the one piece is.
If the correct parts used and in proper order there should be no way the tightening can lock up crank. I'd be measuring how thick that Dorman damper hub is as compared to the old one, needs to be same thickness.
Better hope you didn't lock up at oil pump, that could very easily break things inside to ruin the rest of your day. You could also pull all three parts off to get bare crank, stick the front washered bolt back in crank for a prying surface and pry crank forward and then push backward to check how much crank endplay you have, if more than .020" or so you got dead crank thrust bearing, motor comes apart for that. There is nothing that can fall out of place inside, the thrust is fixed in place, it can only be dead worn out.
02-02-2013 01:42 PM
When I did my recent head work I used an impact to remove and install the crank pully and torqued it down later on after putting it in gear. I had no problems and I really question whether an impact would harm it. You really have to sit there wanging away for a long time with an impact to get a lot ot torque on something. By contrast with a breaker bar or torque wrench it is very easy to break things!
02-02-2013 06:58 PM
Well an update, no good news but an update none the less....So in frustration we pulled the oil pan last night for a visual inspection of the thrust bearing, which still looks good. Measured crankshaft axial play at about .012. This time it was a fight to get the timing belt sprocket off (which did slide off relatively easily the first time when I replaced the crank seal) This sprocket is the one piece design with a raised washer attached to one side and protruding teeth on the other side, I had installed it with the flat washer side towards the engine. Also there was thin metal washer between the crank sprocket and engine, normally when I take things apart I put them in a stack in the same order to help with re assembly but I am not sure if this was in the correct place. The thin washer is now damaged and the front of the engine is also damaged from where the washer had contacted the oil pump hosing and was rubbing (basically rubbing against the crank seal and the metal that the seal sits in. If any one has an exploded view of the 2.0 SPI I would love to see it! The deeper I dig the more confused I am, the first time I did the belt the engine had been apart for a couple days first waiting on seals then on time to put it back together, so any number of mistakes could have been made on order and orientation. thanks for everyone's continued assistance
02-03-2013 01:14 AM
Oh ho, you need to make up your mind, first you ask for zetec, now it's SPI, good reason for maybe why you are where you are now..................now we must question every thing you say, you won't get many good answers that way.
Find out definitely what engine you have and if SPI go to that section and post.
02-03-2013 06:03 AM
If it is the spi engine, get rid of it for the zetec.