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hokies 01-23-2013 12:49 PM

2002 Focus banging into 2nd and 3rd
First post but have used the site for a few years. My wife has a 2002 Focus SE Zetec with 187,000 miles and was having a problem with idle. Took it to a independent garage because I didn't have time to deal with it. I have a 2002 BMW X5 with 220,000 that takes most my time. First garage put a new passenger side motor mount in it and ran some sea foam through it. It acted OK for about 2 days. The rough idle came back. To be honest I don't know if it ever went away. It wasn't that bad so i decided to just let it be. It finally started getting worse so I needed an inspection and front end alignment anyway so I took it to another mechanic (independent) Its not throwing any codes by the way. This mechanic charges me 3 hours of setting the timing @ $70 an hour. The car was running the same. I blew up at that price and just took it home to look at it myself. I replaced the other two motor mounts and took the car for a spin rough idle and no banging into gear. Then started messing under the hood an found that the PCV hose had collapsed and had a hole in it. Replaced the hose and it now idles perfect in park. Put it in gear and the idle is rough. Took the car down the road and now after just replacing the hose and now the car bangs into second and third so hard the belt squeals when it happens. Any ideas what might have happened?

Codreamn 01-23-2013 03:32 PM

The check engine light is not on now is it? I doubt it has anything to do with the vacuum leak, unless you pulled a ground wire off to repair the vacuum problem.

hokies 01-23-2013 04:49 PM

Thanks for the reply I went out there to dig around again and saw that I had forgotten to plug the throttle position sensor back in. Still working on the rough idle in drive with foot on the brake.

freemind 01-23-2013 05:27 PM

You cannot set the timing on the Focus for one(it is controlled from the ECU). I suggest that you go get your money back for that much. It is aganst the law in most states to claim that he did work that IMO is not possible.

If I was you I'd clean or replace your IACV(idle air control valve)as well. You can get it at 10% over cost from Village Ford here,

whynotthinkwhynot 01-23-2013 06:03 PM

Yeah, have you tried the typical stuff? Spark plugs, wires, clean MAF, air filter, fuel filter? I would also try an A/F reset after doing the "tune-up" mentioned above. It's easy, just disconnect the negative battery terminal for 10 mins or so. Then when you start the engine, allow it to idle for 5 mins after it drops out of warm up idle. It should settle down around 1k rpm and if you have a tach, it will fluctuate slightly around 1k. The computer then starts a test that lasts 5 mins. After that 5 mins, the idle will drop to normal which is around 700 rpm.

Now, Freemind is probably right because it seems like your idle is not going up like it should when you have the brake on in gear. I would clean the IACV first. You might want to double check that front motor mount too. We have had issues with some aftermarket mounts 3 in 4 fail quickly after installation. Check it by using your finger to push in on the rubber part of the mount. If it is not firm, then the fluid has leaked out of the mount.

amc49 01-23-2013 07:14 PM

Often a new passenger side mount can vibrate as bad as the old one did if not a Ford branded mount. Usually that sort of statement is highly suspect, but in this case it's true. Simply troll around here for all the guys who bought new ones and then started spending wasted money on other things when they weeded mount out. Later on it often turns out the NEW one sucks too.................

curtisparker82 01-23-2013 07:43 PM

i bought a aftermarket mount and it blew apart in wasnt oil filled like fords...
will never buy going to go urethane...

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