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ARP main stud to lower crankcase clarence issues... and how i solved it

3K views 20 replies 8 participants last post by  200two-zx3 
#1 ·
While rebuilding my 02 zetec engine I replaced my main bolts with ARP main studs which are wayyy stronger, when doing so even with the correct ARP part used you will run into major clarence issues. I'm currently getting my camera fixed so it will connect and so I can make a step by step of how I fixed it also id like for other people to include how they fixed it... this will help anyone who builds the 2.0 engine in the future. Also for those who think you can reuse ur old main and rod bolts you shouldnt as they are a torque to yeild style bolt that should be replaced everytime[ffrocks].
 
#3 ·
Yeah, and where is that spec for max allowable stretch, surprise it doesn't exist. One should realize if bolt has physically deformed to stay permanently longer, it has already partially failed, which is what TTY bolts do the first time they are used. It would be quite dumb to risk an engine on that................
 
#4 ·
Yeah, and where is that spec for max allowable stretch, surprise it doesn't exist. One should realize if bolt has physically deformed to stay permanently longer, it has already partially failed, which is what TTY bolts do the first time they are used. It would be quite dumb to[thumb] risk an engine on that................
You are 100% correct [thumb] if you reuse a tty bolt you risk wasting all the time and money you put into the engine...

NEVER REUSE TTY BOLTS Just a side note for everyone
 
#6 ·
Yes you need to use photobucket or something of the like.

To embed them here use,



I look forward to the how to.

You will get a Rep point by doing so.
 
#9 · (Edited)
first you need some good ole ARP studs


next you'll install them via instructions included and using the torque lube

then you'll notice the studs are way longer then the stock bolts

then I decided to trim down the stud after installing the nut and marking the stud and removing them as to not put metal shaving and grindings in the engine while making sure I don't take too much off and hurt the integrity of the stud

this will also reduce the amount aluminum you have to remove from the bottom crankcase assy

above I marked the area where your stud will hit if not notched out also below

next you will need a tool of choice mine is here

and perform your notching I also used a air powered 90 degree cutoff wheel


the angles are messing with how the clearance looks but its evenly cut out around the nut

then ur done with this issue


then you'll be done and happy
 
#14 ·
I would be worried about cutting the studs... the little bit of extra metal to cut off the windage tray is not going to significantly change the strength. If you are worried dont do a square cut out, arch it out so their are no points.

I would not cut the studs, the studs get heat treated to make them stronger. The heat treating to my understanding allows for the molecular structure to "realign" after the cutting and threads. Cutting stud removes this "advantage" and can cause stress points internal to the stud. Ask ARP and I bet they will most defiantly recommend against any cutting or trimming of the stud.
 
#15 · (Edited)
You would have to raise the temp to over 800 degrees to even begin to mess with the heat treating I used a cold cuting method, if you were woried about heat effecting the stud then you def shouldn't use them in a engine where temps range from 200 to 600 degrees. I work along side of a racing developement group and they told me that by simply cutting the excess threads off you won't create even close to enough heat to mess with the heat treatment.

Also u say ask arp if they recommend cutting there stud~ I'm positive they would say No jut to cover there a**
Try asking ford if we should notch the bottom crankcase supports, they would def advise against it yet it has worked for many many people.

Great input on the subject though we def need to think of all sides of the issues before reccomending people do things
Thanks[:)]
 
#16 ·
All good points. My concern on the cutting is that the heat treating allows for the molecular structure of the bolt after being cut and have threads cut in to relax to a stronger state. If you cut it with out re heat treating you are possibly allowing for a weaker stud. Not that this should matter for most of us.

You say cold, did you use a press to shear it off? And grinding will heat up small isolated areas that will un-uniformly heat that area of the stud.

What strength reasons are there in the windage tray? Nothing bolts to it, does it add rigidity to the block? My understanding the of ribs was to create some division between the rotating lobes of the crank to prevent the oil cloud from causing excess drag.
 
#17 ·
A friend of mine (works in ford performance division) says that by notching the tray you can cause some upset with the natural vibrations. That flow threw the engine, and that by removing some of the support from the tray we would weakin the overall integrity of the design... bla bla bla basicly ford wouldn't have had it there if it wasn't needed. By cold cutting I mean what techs in the aerospace/aircraft industry do you put the stud in a heat sink and keep it room temp or below during the cutting process by taking very small bites.
The temp of the cut never comes close to damaging the stud.
 
#18 ·
Ford also does what is cheapest, could have just been cheaper on the cast mold to have it built that way. It would be interesting to see what kind of harmonic change or strength changes are made to the windage tray.

Using the theory about changing the vibrations of the motor any aftermarket part would cause that... from a TB that changes the air flow, to forged pistons and rods, to different cam shafts that have more or bless rotating mass.

It would be interesting to see if your method of cold cutting does change the integrity of a heat treated bolt/stud.
 
#19 ·
It is not supposed to change anything its a trusted way of trimming bolts on aircraft if it were dangerous then I doubt the faa would allow it, as far as the vibrations thing that's why I said bla bla bla lol its a bunch of nonsense lol.
 
#20 ·
Cutting the studs like he says hurts nothing, if it did I would have blown up plenty of engines. I simply cut them on cutting wheel on bench grinder and keep dipping part in water to control the temp. Little bites like he says, I bet I've done it on thousands of parts. Now if you simply cut or grind on grinder until part turns blue, oh, yeah, you have screwed up. How do you think they are going to balance your high dollar super trick hardened-six-ways-from-sundown connecting rods? By grinding them on a grinder in exact same way. You have to cross a certain threshold of temperature (generally close to the same temp that created the heat treat) to affect the heat treat of a part, anything below that is harmless, and all within the skill and control of the operator.

There is no vibration issue on cutting the girdle webs, it is a strength issue, the cross webs stiffen the girdle up, notched that deep it is a bit weaker is all.
 
#21 ·
Thanks for the back up [headbang]
Also the vibration issue we were talking about is how sound goes threw aluminum by removing material you change the frequency and in part you can cause weak points however this isn't a racing engine being reved to 16000 rpm either so we have nothing to remotely worry about
 
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