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My '00 ZX3 overheated and is now running rough

2K views 18 replies 5 participants last post by  sailor 
#1 ·
Greetings all. I'm hoping I can get some answers from the experts here. I recently ran my '00 ZX3 with a leaking water outlet housing and it overheated and starting running a bit rough before I got it home. I replaced the water outlet housing and thermostat. That seems fine now, but it still sputters a bit and is lacking some power, and the check engine light is on. I pulled the plugs and there is some oil around 3 of them. I am going to try to replace the valve cover seal, but what other things should I be looking for? Is a new seal apt to fix the sputtering?

The engine is a Zetec

Thanks for taking the time to read!
 
#2 ·
Depends on how long you drove with it overheating, was it out of water? If all the bad running started then, well, you may have toasted it. The sputtering could easily be a blown head gasket...............

If the oil leak not horrible, then change just plugs for a short term check, dirty plugs can miss, the overheat may have cooked the oil to short the plugs. Save the valve cover gasket until sure the motor's still good.

I'd be looking into the check engine light..........

luck.
 
#4 ·
I thought the Zetec cars had fail safe cooling systems that would make it run on 2 cylinders during a loss of coolant event. That is what my owners manual says anyway on my '03 zetec. I think it also says it will not go back to normal running until the CEL is reset. I have never had this happen so I'm just repeating what the manual says.
 
#6 ·
Running on two cylinders and running a 'bit rough' are two totally different things, on two cylinders you will not have enough power to maintain speed and it will be so noticeable that I'd think even the rookie could not miss that...........however?

In my world people are taught that if they go ONE minute with temp solidly in the red they have just risked walking until enough money saved to buy new car. While one minute may not necessarily break it, I cannot imagine five. That programmed-in engine shutdown is an attempt to steer customers into dealer repairs, some engines will be damaged by the time they begin running on two cylinders. Zetecs are tough little engines but they run routinely and correctly at 230-240 degrees, by the time you register something is wrong the engine is already in engine damage from overheat territory. That little gimmick will not stop all of it..............

What I'm saying here is if you are relying on that feature to stop you from burning up your motor you are simply asking for it. When it happens you should have already been stopped and engine turned off.
 
#8 ·
My point is if you are dealing with it you have gone too far, one either gets that or they don't. Maybe many don't realize it and read it thinking they can rely on that saving them, definitely a mistake.

You need to realize how many engines I've changed for those who simply thought you drive it until it quits, then fix a small problem and continue for years more. The enlightenment (and repair bill) was not pleasant for them, if you get yours without having to buy new motor or car you should be thankful. ANYTIME you encounter temp at max you are risking the engine by continuing to drive it. Five minutes there is often certain death.
 
#9 ·
If you drove 5 minutes with the temp in the red and now its running rough, i'd be checking the integrity of the head gasket first thing... You'd be lucky if that head didn't warp like a banana seeing as the Zetec runs pretty dang hot even under normal operation...
 
#10 ·
OK, here's the latest. I managed to drive it to town to the local AutoZone. I had them run the diagnostics on the CEL. He told me it said "cylinder 4 misfire" (or something very similar). Recommended I try new plugs, and if that did not work, replace the wires. Well, I did both, but to no avail. He said after that I should consider replacing the coil pack.

Before I spend about $85 and an hour or two of labor on this, is this what you folks would recommend? Any other ideas? Is there any way to test the coil pack before I just blindly replace it (as it would seem my plugs and wires were probably OK to begin with...)

I'm thinking that whatever it is can't be too major if the car can make a 20 mile round trip without running hot. (Then again, maybe I'm an idiot for trying it...)[nono]
 
#11 ·
Is the car still using coolant?

If you can drive it 20 minutes without it overheating then the head and gasket are most likely intact luckily.

As far as testing the spark from the coil take the #4 spark plug wire out of its bore and using some insulated pliers, hold the end of it closely (but not touching) to a metal part of the engine (part of the block, a bolt head, etc. as long as its a good ground) and observe the spark as it arcs to the ground (if any spark is even there). It should be a bright blue color and make a loud snapping sound. If its an orange or yellow color, or no spark at all, and the plugs and wires are new, you likely have a bad coil. Zetec coils are known to crack. Perhaps some leaky coolant from that housing got on it and signed its death warrant.
 
#12 ·
The car does not appear to be using coolant, but I have not run it a whole lot either. It it is, it's very little. The inside under the hood was very moist when it overheated and it had been leaking for weeks prior. Very likely that coolant got all over that coil pack, though for the most part I was refilling with water.

I did put an engine sealant into the crankcase a couple days ago. That may have cured any leaking of the gaskets.

Now, I'm not a huge fan of electricity, so let me make sure I understand what you are telling me.

I'm assuming you are saying that with the car running, pull the #4 wire off the spark plug end and place close to a metal part of the engine while holding with insulated pliers. Is that correct?
 
#14 ·
OK, tried that. I did not get anything when I placed the end close to any metal on the engine. Just to double-check, I pulled one of the others. Before I could get it near the engine, I felt a little tingle [headbang] in my fingers, so I assume that one was working...

I guess I'll replace the coil pack. Will let you know how it goes. Thanks (everyone) for your help so far.
 
#15 ·
I got the coil pack today and installed it and that did it. Running as well as it has in the 3 years or so that I've owned it. It does seem to be still leaking a little oil, as there was a little smoke after the test drive. Guess I'll be replacing a gasket soon.

Thank you for your help!

For the sake of those who may have a similar problem, a brief review:

Engine coolant was leaking and engine was overheating.
Ran the car hot too long and started running rough.
Replaced the water outlet housing - Corrected the coolant leak
Still running rough. Had engine light code checked. - Cylinder 4 Misfire.
replaced plugs (did not fix problem)
replaced wires (did not fix problem)
replaced coil pack - Bingo! Running smooth

Had I known how to troubleshoot the thing properly, I could have saved about $55.

Now on to my next problem - Blower not working...
 
#19 ·
Plz start another thread for the blower issue, we'll see if that can be solved without buying anything you don't need!

BTW, access is pretty easy behind the glovebox & from underneath it. Check for power at the fan connector first - If power there, try 12v. direct to the fan to see if it works at all....

Then we'll give you more hints as needed!
 
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