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Old 01-18-2013, 07:13 PM   #11
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The 180 mA or so drain is normal.

It was way lower today.

I was searching for this problem last night, and it seems it takes a couple of hours for the drain to reduce.


My problem was that the trunk was closed, but not latched. Thus the trunk light was on.
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Old 12-20-2015, 12:27 AM   #12
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Somewhat related issue drivin' me nuts!

If this should be a new thread I apologize. I don't post on forums much I mostly read them for information.

I have a 2000 Focus SE completely stock (no after market stereo, lights, etc.) vehicle with a 2.0L Split Port Injection motor. I have a huge draw (battery drains dead in an hour) and I have narrowed it down to the engine management fuse, F9, under the hood. I pull the fuse and the amperage draw drops to 0.1mA.

My question is does the engine management fuse, F9, in the control box under the hood, control anything but the fuel system? I hear clicking that sounds like it is coming from the throttle body area when I attach the negative cable back to the battery. When I put a stethoscope on the throttle body and the TPS, with the battery cables connected, it I hear something that sounds like a little motor running but I don't think it is coming from the TPS (that would be weird anyway being it is just a rheostat) even with the connector disconnected from the TPS. Anyway I cant find the source of the little motor noise I hear through the stethoscope but it is loudest at the throttle body and the TPS.

If I start with a battery charged to 12.5 volts with the battery negative cable is disconnected then, hook up the negative cable it will start dropping voltage immediately. It will drop to 11 volts within 5 minutes or so and just continue to drop as long as the cables are connected. If I leave the battery disconnected the battery will hold a charge indefinitely.

Here is more history on the car.

Long story short I bought the car cheap because it would not start. After much testing I had to haul it to Ford and have the PAS re-programmed (lots of $$$). When I went to pick it up FORD told me that it had a bad battery but charged it up so I could drive the car home. When I got home I left it for about an hour and came out to start it and the battery was dead so, I put another "known" good used battery in it, one that I took out of my 2002 focus, and it started and ran fine but again, I let it set for a while and came to start it and the battery was dead. That is when I began to do the parasitic draw test on it.
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Old 12-20-2015, 01:04 PM   #13
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Every time you disconnect something or close the door the cycle starts all over again. It takes 30 to 45 minutes for the computer to go into 'sleep mode' where the current is reduced to a minimum
What you need is a DC clamp on ammeter, some kind of extenders to extend the fuses so you can get the ammeter on the wires and measure the current.
You also need the Ford wiring manual
A DC clamp on ammeter is not your usual AC clamp on ammeter

Divide and conquer
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Old 12-20-2015, 05:58 PM   #14
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Okay, so if I understand correctly, because I'm not using the correct method that my determination of it being Fuse 9 may not be correct, is that right?
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Old 12-20-2015, 08:37 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjbambrgr8 View Post
If I start with a battery charged to 12.5 volts with the battery negative cable is disconnected then, hook up the negative cable it will start dropping voltage immediately. It will drop to 11 volts within 5 minutes or so and just continue to drop as long as the cables are connected. If I leave the battery disconnected the battery will hold a charge indefinitely.
Sounds like a dead short to me in one of the battery cables. Where the battery cables pass by the EGR tube, check for burns, brittle plastic and exposed copper. I'd check the entire length of the heavy cable.
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Old 12-20-2015, 11:40 PM   #16
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I think I found the issue. Both O2 sensors. I talked to an electrician and he said a better way is to just go across each fuse that way all the systems that need to stay charged etc. are except the individual system you are working on. I did that and when I checked it initially across the fuse I was drawing 4.5 amps. I unplugged the front O2 sensor and it dropped almost 3.5 amps. Then I unplugged the rear O2 sensor and it dropped to 0 amps across that fuse terminal.
I will replace the sensors tomorrow and do some more checking. On fuse 36 I'm getting a draw of .15 amps which seems a little high but I will cross that bridge once I address the oxygen sensors.
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Old 12-20-2015, 11:46 PM   #17
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I can't see how an O2 sensor by itself would be the problem.

Somewhere on the O2 circuit there's a short.

Switch the locations of the sensors and see if the bit amp draw stays in front or moves to the rear.
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Old 12-20-2015, 11:46 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BC_ZX3 View Post
Sounds like a dead short to me in one of the battery cables. Where the battery cables pass by the EGR tube, check for burns, brittle plastic and exposed copper. I'd check the entire length of the heavy cable.
That is what it seems like (direct short to ground) and it may still be part of the issue. (see my response about O2 sensors in a previous post.) I will deal with the O2 sensors because I know that is an apparent issue. There are 4 leads off the positive terminal and one goes directly to the alternator and it is good. Two go down under the intake by the starter and they are good to that point. I would have to pull the starter to see the rest because that is the only way I can see them. The forth wire is about a 12 gauge wire and it is good as far as I can see. I may still have an issue but I have a place to start now with the O2 sensors.
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Old 12-20-2015, 11:53 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emsvitil View Post
I can't see how an O2 sensor by itself would be the problem.

Somewhere on the O2 circuit there's a short.

Switch the locations of the sensors and see if the bit amp draw stays in front or moves to the rear.
I have replaced many O2 sensors and have never seen them do that either but it is weird that I unplug them and the amperage drops. Would it do that if the short were upstream of the plug? It seems like it must be shorting out in the sensor because when I break the circuit at the plug the short ceases to exist. I could check the resistance across the plug on the sensor side. If it were shorted together internally I would get a reading or check each terminal to the exterior of the sensor to see if it shorted to the exterior of of the sensor then found a ground through the exhaust pipe.
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Old 12-21-2015, 12:02 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emsvitil View Post
I can't see how an O2 sensor by itself would be the problem.

Somewhere on the O2 circuit there's a short.

Switch the locations of the sensors and see if the bit amp draw stays in front or moves to the rear.
I checked resistance through the ground cable of the battery to the block of the motor and got 1.7 ohms. When I checked it through the positive battery cable to the block I got 65-70 ohms. Might explain it if the o2 sensor shorted internally to the exterior of the sensor then to the exhaust. I just don't know what would cause that.
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