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Old 12-29-2013, 11:02 AM   #21
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Flap fix

Ref. Sticking vent selector heater controls on 2006 ZX5.Remove drivers under dash panel,loosen hood cable nut and slide off, unclip data connector and set panel aside.Remove 4 screws from selector control ,cables attached, and let hang down. Unhook the black selector gate and feel the action of both front and rear flaps.The main culprit is the flap closest to the radio so as you move that flap you should feel the sticking or stuck condition at both of its far end positions.A deformed internal flap seal causes this jamming effect, so here follows my humble solution, that involves adjustable end stops.I used a 1/16" aluminum strip 3" long and bent up one end about 1/8" at 90 degrees and mounted it on the heater box with short self-tappers against the link of that flap to provide a forward stop.This stop should be carefully positioned so as not to allow the flap to drop into its sticky resting place.If you are close the aluminum is easy to bent so as to get a finer adjustment.The next step is to remove the radio surround panel,disconnect cigar lighter,remove the radio, pull two cables and set unit aside.Drill a hole in the heater box and install adjusting bolt bracket as shown in the photo. It is important to adjust these end stops as minimally as possible or the mechanism will bind. After the two stops are mounted a final check before reassembly is to install the black selector gate back in position and work "by hand" the mechanism through its full motion to confirm that no stickiness occurs in either of its end positions and that it transitions smoothly through its various modes.Although the flap is not technically as the designer intended, my air flow is normal and the cable controls work properly. The cost of materials is negligible and the labour maybe two hours work .The Ford car company does not need any more of our hard earned money so I hope this helps some other physically challenged heater boxes. The cost of materials was negligible and took maybe 2 hours, with a low difficulty scale.


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Old 09-14-2014, 04:34 AM   #22
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NICE !! Thanks for this reply, lots of good info to get busy on !! Thanks; Tim Klein
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Old 02-01-2015, 09:12 AM   #23
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There are a lot of post about the door sticking at the extreme ends but none for in the middle. I keep mine in the blend setting most of the time and mine will stick there. It is very difficult to get it to switch to vents or feet from there. Is the door sticking or does it have to do with the track? Same fixes as mentioned or different?
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Old 02-01-2015, 11:22 AM   #24
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Posts about sticking at the ends refer to the heat control blend door, not the multiple doors controlling defrost/vent/floor.

Center position on the knob (floor) isn't QUITE exact on mine for example, there's a transition there between defrost settings & floor/vent settings that's often sticky because a lot moves at once there.

For myself, just keeping it on either side of that position avoids leaving it right at that "sticky" transition point - either in the defrost/floor side or the vent/floor side. Not being heavy handed when moving it through that point has avoided troubles with it so far.
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Old 03-07-2015, 09:48 PM   #25
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I've broken four vent cables in the past year. Today I removed the four screws from the white selector & removed it to grease up the black wheel attached to it. Now I can't get it lined up to reinstall it. Any suggestions?
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Old 03-14-2015, 12:16 PM   #26
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I'm new here
but having bougth a used 2005 Focus in the summer
the heat selector moved normal till winter set in.
one ford dealer wanter a $1000 plus to fix it.



So we took it to another Ford dealer, they charged $40 to find the problem, they
charged us $450 to replace the cables, for 73 min of work it worked when we drove it home, the next morning it was stuck.
I first thought it might be moisture issue of water not drainging from AC coil.
I set a elec heater on the pass floor, in 45 min it freed up. convincing me
it was moisture freesing
the Ford dealer said the drain was open. I went home and used the elec heater
again and in 40 min it freed up.
Losing comfince in that dealer, i went to another deal parts department to get
a print out of all I could find in that heater area. I found the wanted $586 for just the heater box. they couldn't give me any break down of that box. I want to get a view of what's inside so i might get some ideas as to how to fix.

Might I say I've worked as an autmotive machist 50 yrs ago and knew many mechanics worked by guess work rather than investigating and fixing what didn't fix the problem charging the customer and charging the customer again to get another imiaged problem on and on till they found the real problem. i also found auto machinist weren't machinist either, I was critixed for using a dial indicator.I moved on to a tool and die shop.
And I also know a lot shops pay the mechanic a comision on the parts they sell
including the service forman. So this game of fix and refix goes on and on.

I'm lookin for warmer weather comes when I can find the time to crawl in trouble shoot for my self.

I would like to find an old heater box from a 2005 focus someone took out and
cut into it to see for my information just how the inside is constructed.

Also would like to find a small cambra for my lap top.
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Old 03-28-2015, 11:36 AM   #27
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The fix outlined in post 21 works. I used this fix and it has worked for over 1 year. Don't bother with the dealer. I'm sorry you paid $450, but your control cables may have been shot and needed to be replaced anyway. You will strip the cables due to excessive force needed to move the sticky damper doors.
$1000 is to replace the heater box. That will also fix the problem.
All cars have these kinds of weak points that create pattern failures. No dealer is going to mess with this finicky repair, but I was willing and can verify it is effective.
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Old 08-05-2015, 06:06 PM   #28
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I'd like to try this fix. That appears to be a jack lock threaded insert. What are the sizes of bolt hardware used ? Measured distances to drill the stop hole would be helpful. it appears approximately centered, though the bottom one seems a bit offset upwards. Why not just use the jack nut alone or with a washer to spread the force. Thanks
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Old 08-05-2015, 07:18 PM   #29
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To dhouse....Because of a lack of welding equipment I was forced to use a front licence plate captive nut arrangement off a car, to provide a workable adjustment device.Before fitting the device on the heater box ,a tight hole was made for that nut to fit into the bracket,the nut pushed in and then the adjuster bolt was fully bottomed out to crush the cage so as to provide as flat a surface as possible and then to mount the device flush on the heater box. The offending flap runs the full width of the heater box and butts up against that one inch flange where the bracket will be mounted. The adjuster when fitted will stop that flap from jamming into the flange area.I used a metric licence nut,bolt and lock nut but you could use 1/4 inch pieces just as well. Drill an exploritory 1/8 inch hole in central position on that flange and put a straight wire through the hole and work the flap against the wire to grasp the concept.If you cant envision this idea then fill the hole with a old screw.Hope thats clear as muck.
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Old 08-06-2015, 07:18 AM   #30
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Is your stop bolt 6 mm, 8 mm ? How long ? Thanks
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