so if the recommended oil is 5 w 20 , wouldnt this be ok to run? if so then sweet , thats enough to last a while .
also anyone have a filter reccomendation , or will anything do , i do like the ones with the lug on em for easy removal tho
yes, 4.5 ... but it all depends on how much oil is left in the pan/engine.
I generally put in 4 full, start the car, let it sit and then check and top it off.
Better to have too little (but still on the stick) than too much, odd as that may sound.
understandable , i do check it often and usually keep a quart or 2 in the car , but this will be the first time iv ran synthetic , and i dont really know what the benifit is , i just got the oil for free but have heard a difference of opinions on synthetic vs conventional
It really doesn't matter what benefits there are. It's free. Which is always a benefit.
But depending on what oil/s you've run in the past the syn may clean the engine out,, sludge and whatnot ,,, but the zetec doesn't sludge bad at all (if any) from what I've seen. So you should be just fine.
And if you're curious about why I say low is better than over (because I'm anxious to explain, just in that kind of mood)
It all has to do with the PCV system.
The air volume the pistons displace in the combustion chambers (~1998cc's) is about equal the the volume they displace in the oil pan. The pan is actually a bit bigger. This is done so pressure doesn't build in the bottom end, which would reduce TQ because the piston has to move through pressure, more resistance.
Too much oil can raise the pressure through the PCV and coat the intake with more oil than normal.
It's one of those things most don't know or think about. So it's just kinda neat to know.
During oil change and the oil had drained and is just a drip, I put a 1/4 to a 1/3 of a quart of new oil in to do some what of a flush of any residual oil in the pan and then let that drip out then do the normal fill process.
I have always heard that the low number is the important one. I use Motorcraft filters and have never had a problem. I also use Motorcraft synthetic blend oil. Good bang for the buck. I have used Mobil one 5-20 in the past and the motor did seem to be a little smoother. Other than that I did not notice any other difference. I still got the same gas milage and the power felt the same. (So if it is for free, it is for me) that what I say. [thumb]
well it would be hella sweet to actually have a noticable difference from the switch . is it possible ? i mean im pretty sure this cars never ran synthetic and its at 79,000 now
As far as the low number. If your car calls for 5w20 it will not hurt to run 5w30. But I have heard do not run 10w20 or 10w30. I guess the low number is how thin the oil is at normal temp. And the high number how thick the oil is at start up. I to would like to know more info on the the numbers. Maybe someone with more info could clear this up.
I do know when I used the Mobil 1, my car at idol was real smooth. I would use it all the time if it did not cost so darn much. I change my oil every 3000 miles and it can add up.
That's not quite correct, the lower number is the viscosity under winter or cold (below 32F) conditions and the higher number is the viscosity at higher temperatures (above 210F).
A 5W20 and a 10W20 would behave exactly the same way at 210F at least theoretically, however on a cold engine the SAE 10 weight oil would be thicker than the SAE 5 weight oil which is bad for engine wear at start up.
However with viscosity improvers comes the risk of shearing and breaking down the oil to becoming thinner at higher temperatures.
You want the oil to be thicker at higher temperatures to prevent it from flowing away from the metal surfaces but not too thick as to cause flow issues, or damage from increased pressure.
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