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How-To: Remove 05 Duratec alternator from above

79K views 39 replies 21 participants last post by  rkpatt 
#1 · (Edited)
OK, when I my alternator died, I read that everyone had to invite a friend over to help them lever the motor out of the way so the alternator would come out. Well, I have a problem, I don't have any friends. Really, even beer doesn't help- they just puke, or hate me anyway. I have to go it alone. So maybe you know someone in a similar situation, or maybe you are in a similar situation. Maybe you just don't want to buy any beer for your freeloading cheap ass friends who would only have to pull back on a pry bar for a few minutes while you do all the work. Regardless, here's how to go it alone.

Tools:
E8 torx female socket.
Flex head ratchet
3/8 and 1/4 ratchet
Stubby ratchets
15, 13, 10, 8, 7 mm sockets and some in wrenches.
Jack
Jack stand
Wheel chocks
Stuff like that

This is mostly a picture story, and most of it is fairly self explanatory.

A daunting task indeed. Oh well, remove the negative cable and get started.


You'll have to remove the coolant reservoir, power steering reservoir and it's bracket, the noise suppressor and it's bracket, the purge valve and it's bracket, and remove all the bolts in the upper exhaust heat shield.

Yes the purge valve lines are just like the fuel lines- press the clip on it's flat side until it clicks and pull it off.


The purge valve is held on by a simple clip on the back side.


That's all the bolts that hold the upper exhaust heat shield and the 2 that hold the purge valve/fuel line bracket. Yes, it's 8 bolts on the heat shield. 2 long ones (the rusted 2) at the top, 3 in the center, and 3 at the bottom. If Ford hadn't put this handy small bolt holder up there- I'd probably ditch them completely for how hard this alternator job is. Thank goodness it lasted 140k miles!!


Removing this helps free up the fuel line so it's not so hard to move back. You'll also have to remove the serpentine belt cover after jacking the vehicle- there are 2 bolts- one under the headlight, and one in the center.


If you're not a complete goof, you'll draw out your serpentine belt routing before you remove it. Yeah, I know, manuals- right. Some have them, some don't, but even if you do- this might keep you from having to look at it later.


If you're having trouble removing the serpentine belt, then you're probably not holding your mouth right. I found it was easiest to use a 15mm open end of a wrench to rotate the bolt on the tensioner to the right while sliding the belt off the water pump pulley.


Well, I guess it's time to start removing the alternator.... mmmmm flex ratchet= fewer hand cuts.


To remove the alternator, you're going to want to remove the vent from the back of the alternator. You won't be able to remove the nut on the hot wire any other way. On my alternator, there is one 13mm bolt that holds the whole vent assembly to the alternator- although it's 2 parts. I was unable to separate the two parts while it was in the vehicle. It might help getting access to the bolt by removing the upper alternator stud completely with the E8 torx socket, and the lower bolt so that you can tilt the alternator forward like this.


To remove the stud you'll need that E8 torx socket I mentioned in the tools list. That's really the reason I wrote the tools list, and it's the only special tool you'll really need.


This pic is from when I put it back in, but you can see how not having the vent gives you the access you need to the main hot wire bolt, and plug-in connector.


Here's the evil vent, if you look closely you'll see that I broke the clip on one side that connects to the snout. It still connects just fine with only one clip. I had real difficulty removing the snout with just one clip- even out of the vehicle. Now you might be thinking- why the vent? Well electricity and heat go together like celebs and marriage. If you didn't put it back in, then the voltage regulator would probably die off a lot sooner. That's why I broke it apart into 2 pieces. I had to install the back side with the alternator in the vehicle. I wasn't able to put it in there with it on.


OK so now the evil vent is gone, remove the alternator from the remaining stud. Push the exhaust shield out of the way, and pull the alternator out just like this.


I know, it doesn't look like it but there is just enough room there. Maybe later models have a heat shield that is easier to remove- I don't know. Mine is like the one that ST's have, the manifold is tubular not cast, and honestly I don't know how to remove the heat shield without removing the mani-cat also.


There you have it- the impossible alternator removal from the top without schmoozing buddies with no beer money.

Be sure to clean your main hot contact points on the alternator and the wire before re-installing. I was torn about putting blue thread lock or anti-seize on the upper stud. The studs aren't zinc galvanized, so the steel will bite (actually galvanize) into the aluminum, so that means anti-seize. Yet, you don't want it tight or it will get stuck- so that's thread lock. I settled on anti-seize and about 20 ft-lbs which is more than it had on it when I removed it.I'll update the thread if that doesn't last as long as the alternator. Now you could use a little AS on the bottom threads, and BTL on the top few.

If you don't like that, get some friends (and beer).

(yeah I know the vc is leaking, that and the o2 are next week- my back hurts I'm old and I want to fart now)
 
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#3 ·
That's pretty much the same way I got mine out the top except I didn't have to disconnect that valve , I had enough slack in the lines that once I got it off the firewall it would move far enough out of the way .
 
#4 ·
Question,is this the original battery or first replacement? I'm just trying to see if it's possible to avoid this job if i just buy a new battery every 5 years whether it needs it or not.
 
#5 ·
The guy who rebuilt the alternator said that it needed new field brushes, bearings, and regulator. Fortunately it didn't need a new pulley- those are like $85 from what he said. The total cost was $85. The battery was 7 years old, but it's not like it was dead- I think I drove to work on it in the morning with the lights on- that's like 20 minutes. Heck the new battery only puts out like 12v even and the old one put out 12.7 GO MOTORCRAFT BATTERIES!

I wish I'd taken a pic of removing/installing the stud. That's probably the most important thing to doing it this way. I guess it's because I had to get under the car to slide the alternator on, so I forgot.

I have an 06 ZX4 is this the same configuration as your 05?
I have no idea really, but it should work if you can get everything out of that corner.
 
#7 ·
Thanks - very useful. I'll be using your info to replace the alternator on my 04 ZTS which has the same engine bay setup as yours. Never would have thought of the E8 Torx socket and I wonder why they design odd bolts like that into the car - to annoy home mechanics?
 
#8 ·
Times have changed from the cars of yesterday. It's almost like they build the cars around the motors.
It's not easy working on a car yourself anymore.
There are check engine lights that you need special equipment to diagnose.
Special tools for one thing or another.
Mechanics have to take classes to learn the latest technology.
Or buy a new piece of equipment, to even keep up with the cars newer technology.
A lot of us don't have the time or especially the resources to work on our own cars.
I remember my old Maverick. Changing a water pump, and fan belts, or replacing a set of shocks was a simple Saturday afternoon job.
I look under the hood of my Focus, and you need to be Houdini to work on it.
I envy and respect you guys that have the knowledge and resources to do a lot of wrenching yourself.
But for some of us, unfortunately. Its not so simple.
 
#9 ·
i know this is a (kinda) old thread,,, BEST ONE I'VE FOUND THO !! (so far),, but i did NOT buy the torx female socket,,, a 1/4" socket fit right on mine, and the studs came out fairly easy. the BIGGEST problem i am having is getting the heat shield far enough out of the way. (well, that and the stupid quick-locks for the fuel and purge lines).,, it looks like you only have your shield only "pushed" over,,, same as i have mine, but still not enough room.
 
#10 ·
I used this yesterday on my '05 focus worked great took a sawzaw to my heat shield kept the upper half though an bolted right back on the little [:)][:)][:)][:)][:)] wrapped all the way under my manifold. Its like pinch welded pieced together. But yeah 1/4 inch shallow socket on the studs an when reinstalling them I used anti seize. Great write up bro.!!
 
#11 ·
I just did an alternator job on my 2006 manual, took it out from the top, and didn't have to remove the heat shield or purge lines. My trick?

Roll a floor jack under the engine, yank out the engine mount below the coolant reservoir (all three bolts and two nuts), and slide the engine to the front. With a little rotating and shuffling the alternator around it came right out.

Trust me, taking out the engine mount will trump breaking rusty bolts on the heat shield any day!

Good luck.
 
#13 ·
I remove mine from the bottom, it fits perfectly thru the chassis/crossmember.
 
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#14 ·
Ok, a formal update

First off...I can't believe I typed "hear" instead of "here" in my last post. Well we all make mistakes.

Now to the meat of the post

The '06 Focus is almost an apology for the engineering foibles of the '05 by the looks of it.

First thing they did is they moved the Power Steering reservoir to the front of the engine, so it's now out of the way.

No need to remove the coolant reservoir...though it wouldn't hurt to have some extra room to work, I never once thought "wow I wish this coolant reservoir was somewhere else.

Yes...disconnect the overflow valve. It's easy so don't fret it...Whynotthinkwhynot's instructions are exactly as it is....push the button on the clip in the back, slide the hose off, pull the connector and the valve slides off to the right. Plastic wire connectors are like kryptonite to me and these are not a problem in any way unless they are broken to begin with.

No need for that E8 Torx. Don't need to remove the studs. Takes a bit of finagling but there is enough room to slide the alternator back off the studs.

Ok my steps in order as best my memory serves.

Disconnect the battery

Remove the exhaust heat shields...both of them...you will need to disconnect the O2 sensors...or mass air flow or whatever those damn things are...hey come on now...I'd never even changed my own oil before I owned this car...forgiveness please :D...anyway, the lower heat shield is going to need to be bent and stuff to come out...I personally think putting these back on was THE hardest part of the job...oh yeah...we also tested the alternator before completely re-assembling them and exhaust was also really hot...but I digress.

Remove first set of bolts on the studs...these hold the plastic shroud on.

Remove the plastic air intake. Like Whynotthinkwhynot, i broke one of the clips and it still holds on fine (@Whynotthinkwhynot, did you break the driver side clip or the passenger side facing one? I broke the passenger side facing one).

Remove the bolt holding the driver's side plastic shroud thingy. Don't worry about getting it off yet, just get the bolt off and get it loose...like Whynot said, you will need to rotate it a bit to get to the nut holding the hot wire on.

Remove the hot wire, remove the 3 connector plastic plug as well.

Remove the second set of bolts which hold the bracket that holds the wires and the alternator to the studs.

Slide the bracket off the studs and get them wires outta da road. It's a bit tight, but it will come off without too much stress.

If you haven't raised the car yet, now's the time to do it...get under there and get that belt off the pulleys. There's that plastic thing you have to remove...it's two bolts as described, I question how important is really is to have..but it will keep things cleaner under there I'm sure.

While you're under there, there's a very long bolt that also holds the alternator at the bottom. Get that thing out as well.

At this point, you should be able to slide the alternator off the studs. On the '06, there is enough room to slide it off...getting it through everything is a little trickier but my no means hard. It's main difficulty is that there's some weight to it and leverage can be hard to come by to manoeuvre it through the tight space...but this is where taking the overflow valve off and the exhaust heat shields come in handy (the heat shield will cut and scrape you up unmercifully as well).

Tested the battery with the car off at 13v (fresh off the charger, I'll test it again tomorrow). Started the car and was sitting between 13.8v and 14.2v.

Turned everything on...this is an SES so that means max AC, headlights, radio, rear defogger, both heated seats, hazards and it did dip between 12.8v (yikes) and 13.2v.

I will put in a new belt, but the part stores were all closed by the time I got to that point. Inspection shows a little cracking across some of the strips, but not beyond replacement threshold. I do think i have about 125k on mine though, as last time i changed it was approx 125k and i'm now hitting the 250k mark because I drive close to 1200km a week, though lately, it's shared duty between the car and a motorcycle, which happens to be at the shop getting a new tire and having the old stock exhaust put on (go figure that's when my alt goes.

Going to give her a good test ride tonight with the AC cranked and see how that goes, the early signs of failure for me were the Alt light (battery one) coming on when the AC was on, or blower and headlights and then just kept coming on more and more and more....then my radio started to shut off, then the airbag light came on, then my headlights, speedometer, tachometer, odometer, turn signals and eventually car itself would shut off...so much fun...by comparison this swap was a walk in the park...a lot more of a pain than it should be...but a lot less in the '06 than the '05.

I'm not trying to hijack the thread, but the '05-'07 are more or less identical cars...but apparently some small redesigns made it through the years.

Now I can go back to loving my car again.
 
#15 ·
You can use the electronic odometer trick to monitor battery voltage while you drive. Key OFF, press and hold the trip odometer reset button, turn key ON. Continue to hold reset button until odometer reads [test], it will quickly switch to [gage] and the needles will jump around clicking wildly. This is normal. Release the odo reset button. Now each time you press and release the odometer reset button you'll scroll through 30 test functions. It will remain in test mode until you turn the key OFF. Find the test mode that reads [bat 12.1], once you start the engine, that will give you the alternator voltage.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Well, it's my turn.
Just put the 2nd alternator in 257k miles. Damn cheap shit just don't last, lol.
Normally, I just take it to the local alternator/starter rebuild shop. They install one for less than I can get it from the parts store. Of course it failed on Friday after the shop was closed, so.........
Anway, here's how I did it.
Began in the morning after the engine had cooled all night.
1. put the car on jack stand, remove passenger front wheel. This makes it MUCH eaiser to remove the cover and serpentine belt. And it's easier to see and get in and out from under the car.
2. disconnect the negative battery terminal.
3. move the lines out of the way as the op mentioned.
4. removed the top alternator mounting nut from under the hood
5. crawl under the car and remove the left mounting bolt
6. remove the nut from the right mounting rod, and take off the right side plastic cover
7. you should now be able to move the alternator around enough to get to the bolt of the left plastic cover with a ratchet and a socket. You can now remove the plastic cover without having to separate it.
8. remove the ring terminal and the plug.
9. remove the top heat shield
10. now take out the mounting stud with a 1/4 in socket and ratchet and wrestle the alternator out of the engine bay. (This is the fun part).

I was quite proud of myself that I was able to remove the snorkel piece as one without having to break the tabs. That lasted until it was time to put the alternator back in. I found it was not as easy to get the cover back on, so I decided to separate it. That's when the tabs broke, lol. Oh,well. It went back on just fine, anyway. Remember the snap tite plastic model kits that didn't require any glue? That must be who made these parts. One of the bolts to the heat shield snapped right off with 1/2 a turn.
Anyway, it was a genuine pita, but hopefully the next person won't have near the trouble after gathering the ideas from this thread. Good luck! You'll need it.
 
#20 ·
Tools:
E8 torx female socket.
Flex head ratchet
3/8 and 1/4 ratchet
Stubby ratchets
15, 13, 10, 8, 7 mm sockets and some in wrenches.
Jack
Jack stand
Wheel chocks
Stuff like that
Well, it's my turn.
Just put the 2nd alternator in 257k miles. Damn cheap shit just don't last, lol.
Normally, I just take it to the local alternator/starter rebuild shop. They install one for less than I can get it from the parts store. Of course it failed on Friday after the shop was closed, so.........
Anway, here's how I did it.
Began in the morning after the engine had cooled all night.
1. put the car on jack stand, remove passenger front wheel. This makes it MUCH eaiser to remove the cover and serpentine belt. And it's easier to see and get in and out from under the car.
2. disconnect the negative battery terminal.
3. move the lines out of the way as the op mentioned.
4. removed the top alternator mounting nut from under the hood
5. crawl under the car and remove the left mounting bolt
6. remove the nut from the right mounting rod, and take off the right side plastic cover
7. you should now be able to move the alternator around enough to get to the bolt of the left plastic cover with a ratchet and a socket. You can now remove the plastic cover without having to separate it.
8. remove the ring terminal and the plug.
9. remove the top heat shield
10. now take out the mounting stud with a 1/4 in socket and ratchet and wrestle the alternator out of the engine bay. (This is the fun part).

I was quite proud of myself that I was able to remove the snorkel piece as one without having to break the tabs. That lasted until it was time to put the alternator back in. I found it was not as easy to get the cover back on, so I decided to separate it. That's when the tabs broke, lol. Oh,well. It went back on just fine, anyway. Remember the snap tite plastic model kits that didn't require any glue? That must be who made these parts. One of the bolts to the heat shield snapped right off with 1/2 a turn.
Anyway, it was a genuine pita, but hopefully the next person won't have near the trouble after gathering the ideas from this thread. Good luck! You'll need it.
Thank you guys. The tools needed really helped, and I used some of both of your tips, including Allen's tip to rotate the alternator around the top stud to get the duct off and on without disassembling it. Mine is a 2007 Focus ZX4 ST

I wound up following most of this guide and coming out the bottom;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8AGDuhxOKQ

The hardest part wound up getting the new belt back on. Everything else was just doing a bunch of simple tasks until the job was done.

Basically, I did the following.

1: Put drivers side front tire on a ramp, chock a rear wheel, loosen passenger side front lug nuts, and jack passenger side up and put it on a stand.

2: Disconnect Negative battery cable.

3:Remove passenger side wheel, inner fender-well, and splash shield.

4: Remove belt and tensioner. I used a 13 mm wrench and a 14mm wrench hooked to the end of the 13 mm wrench to make a cheater to get the tension off the belt. My belt tensioner tool would not work here.

5:Remove nuts holding vented cover from front of alternator and remove the cover from below.

6:Loosen top alternator mount nut about 6 turns. Loosen bottom alternator mount nut and then remove the alternator mount nut with stud and the bolt.

7:Rotate alternator forward and up so the duct bolt is easy to get to. Remove duct bolt and duct.

8: Remove positive battery cable from alternator. Squeeze alternator harness connector and remove it from alternator.

9:Remove top alternator mount stud and lower alternator until it stops.

10: Remove rear motor mount "dog bone" front bolt.

11:position alternator between axle and steering rack.

12: Push engine forward with elbow and slide alternator down and out.
 
#22 ·
I'd make sure to replace it w/ the same new ford/motorcraft one. I wouldn't cheap out on a alt. A starter is different= easier to do,,,,,,,
 
#23 ·
Me TOO!

So, this sounded like SOOO much fun that I thought that I should try it too.
I followed Why Not's... directions (sorta) on my '04.

There were a few disparities that really slowed my roll:
1) There were 4 8mm nuts holding the cover in back of alternator- not a single 13mm nut. Hard to reach front/bottom one.
2) Did your alternator also have the metal guard around it?
3) I couldn't figure out the heat-shield, so I left it on and tight. Came out anyway.
4) There is a LARGE fuel filter(?) looking item where you had the Purge Valve. I removed the two mounting bolts and pushed it out of the way.
5) There was an aluminum heat-barrier between the exhaust and the firewall that had two 14mm(?) bolts at bottom that were extremely difficult to remove.

Other than that, it was basically the same procedure... Wish I had read about loosing the rear motor-mount and pushing. I probably could have gotten it out thru suspension in half the time... It just wouldn't quite fit!

Hands are nicked up and back got tired of laying on concrete, but at least it is done![thankyou]
Thanks Why Not!

BTW- In case anyone else has the flickering lights issue, the new alternator fixed mine!
 
#26 ·
... Wish I had read about loosing the rear motor-mount and pushing. I probably could have gotten it out thru suspension in half the time... It just wouldn't quite fit!
John, this post really ain't meant at you. Just sharing with any readers that I chose to use the Alt removal thru the bottom of my car. As you said, once the dogbone motor mount is disconnected, the Alt will drop out the bottom after a push on the engine to swing it away some. Before doing my Alt removal, I was concerned about the PITA difficulty, but in hindsight, it was quite easy, or not too bad, and all work was done in the comfort(?) of laying on the ground.

Mine was like your's, has the Alt heat shield + has the stupid duct for cooling air flow.

Cheers!
 
#28 ·
Like said, if the lower mount is removed the entire engine/trans can be swung by hand front to rear like pushing a child on a swingset, since the major load mounts in top hangers the exact same way. You can get 6+ inches worth of swing there.
 
#30 ·
No.

Crazy is removing a starter from a small block V8 in a Chryco A-body with headers. You must slide it all the way back to about the center of the door before there's enough room for it to drop out.

Removing the #3 spark plug from a Ford Aerostar with a 3.0 V6 is a similar challenge where you must have either a spark plug wrench or a spark plug socket with 7/8 6 pt around the square drive receptacle on the back. There is no wobble head that will get you where you can do anything with it, nor flex, you can barely get the socket to go on the spark plug, and it barely backs out if you don't beat the firewall with a hammer. The 4.0 is much easier to work on- the difference between a 60 deg, and 90 deg V engine.

Of course there were always the fun GM G-body #7 or #5 spark plug issues that GM had to put a hole on the inside of the fender so you could put an extension in there to get around the evaporator box.

Or... the ultimate nightmare.... fuel filter on Toyota Corollas, it's under the hood, you can see it, now get to it without removing the brake master cylinder and power brake booster.

This Focus stuff is not so bad- except for the horrible Zetec oil filter placement not as horrible as Windstars, but still fairly horrible.
 
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