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Old 02-03-2012, 09:47 PM   #11
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I ve replaced steering wheel switch,servo 3 times, checked fuses, and brake lights and i hope this procedure somebody posted will save me.
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Old 02-06-2012, 01:54 PM   #12
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CC Servo $480 or the junk yard...
Yea, hope for a switch or cable issue.
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Old 02-06-2012, 03:26 PM   #13
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Those servos can be fixed. My moms 05 ZX3 has a dealership installed cruise control, and awhile ago the cruise stopped working. I had dealt with cruise control problems in the past so I knew what was involved, and after finding no problems elsewhere I looked at the servo and shook it and could feel/hear parts loose inside the servo box. Took it apart and found that some screws had come loose from the plastic gear mechanism. Fixed it easily and it works like a champ now. The one in her car uses an electromagnet to pull on its throttle cable and the servo was actually mounted on top of the engine on a rail, I know factory installed are not as accessible as that.

Mccreet, you have any luck with that self diagnostic procedure?
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Old 02-06-2012, 05:00 PM   #14
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yeah thanks, i tried the diagnostic test and it came back 3 flashes, which means brake switch curcuit, my mechanic is gonna handle it from there. i got 3 servos at the junkyard for each one like $15. i will let u know how it turns out in a few days.
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Old 02-08-2012, 11:08 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mccreet View Post
yeah thanks, i tried the diagnostic test and it came back 3 flashes, which means brake switch curcuit, my mechanic is gonna handle it from there. i got 3 servos at the junkyard for each one like $15. i will let u know how it turns out in a few days.
The brake switch circuit should be an easy fix. Go back to the junk yard and pull a stop lamp switch and brake pedal position switch:



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Old 04-22-2013, 12:43 PM   #16
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cc doesn't work and no cc light

cc doesn't work, I check all fuses and replaced two. First of all the cc light on dash doesn't lite and when I replaced fuses it still doesn't lite. when starting or in start position before engine starts no light for the cc. any ideas
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Old 04-22-2013, 12:46 PM   #17
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Check your tail lights make sure none are burnt out. Including the high mount.(third brakelight)
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Old 04-16-2014, 03:00 PM   #18
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Sorry to bump an old thread but I did the diagnostic and got the zero flashes. So suspect circuitry or steering wheel controls. How can the wheel controls be an issue if in doing the self test all are pressed and the self test works? So suspect cicuitry. What needs replaced? Any input from anyone?
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Old 03-31-2015, 07:50 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alz focus View Post
Give this a shot. I copied it from another post. It was how I figured out my cc problems.

The test is basically this: you're going to be turning the ignition key on and off repeatedly and then hitting the cruise control buttons quickly in a specific sequence, and then the cruise control light will blink repeatedly, and the number of blinks tells you where the fault is. It's easy to do once you get it sorted in your head and you won't mess anything up if you don't get it right the first time.

If it's a manual, don't depress the clutch. If it's an automatic leave it in park. First, turn the ignition to the accessory/run position but don't start it. Press and hold the CC off switch and then repeatedly turn the ignition from run to off and back to run again, you should do this 3 or 4 times. End this sequence with the ignition in the run position and then let go of the off switch, and you should see your CC light blink once, which means it's ready to run the self diagnostic. If it flashes 5 times at this point then it's a faulty speed control module, which is that servo I mentioned above. Quickly after the light blinks (like a second after), you then need to hit the other cruise control buttons in this order, and you will need to hit them fairly quickly for the test to proceed:

1. On
2. Resume
3. Coast
4. Set/accel

The CC light should blink once after each button you hit. Kind of take your time hitting the buttons and it's easier to keep track of the flashes, which is important at the end because you need to count the number of flashes that come after you hit "set". There won't be an immediate flash after you hit "set", there will be a slight delay, and then will come another short series of flashes. This next part is all verbatim (except for the parenthesis) from the Ford guide I'm translating here.

0 Flashes (no flash after last button is pushed): suspect circuitry or speed control steering wheel switches.
1 Flash: Static test passed (cruise control should work)
2 Flashes: BPP (brake pedal position) switch is damaged, circuit is damaged, or the brake or clutch pedal was applied during test.
3 Flashes: Brake deactivation switch is open or circuit is damaged.
4 Flashes: Indicates the speed signal circuit is open or damaged (wheel speed sensors, ETC)
5 Flashes: Suspect circuitry or module.
Great post. I had the pin for the clutch slave break off the pedal assembly. While I was down there removing the pedal i must have bumped the upper brake switch. The code procedure worked mint. Problem fixed. Thanks!
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Old 03-31-2015, 08:46 PM   #20
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Its not this or that

what it is is the servo on the firewall
not the brake pedal switch or any of that crap
it is the servo
They had an issue where they were made poorly and moisture got in
they fail alot
replace that unit and you should be good to go.
Write me if you need specific help
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