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Old 10-29-2010, 08:55 AM   #11
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USA - you guys with 05's don't have the adjustable wheel??? (liking my '04 more & more as I learn about cheapened newer models!)
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Old 11-01-2010, 09:27 AM   #12
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Adjustable? Sure... Tilt? Nope.... It moves up and down, but no changing the angle of the wheel. And I miss being able to tilt the bottom of the seat up and down; standard on the Tracer LTS circa 1991.
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Old 03-24-2012, 09:21 AM   #13
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Door stuck

Can someone post a diagram of the assembly?

Knob is stuck on defrost.

recirculation door not working either. What operates that door cable or vacume?
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Old 03-24-2012, 07:26 PM   #14
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I know what's wrong ... but not how to fix it

I am having this same problem. The knob that adjusts the airflow between the floor, face and defrost get's stuck. I also have stripped out one of my knobs and had to get a new one at the junk yard.

I have narrowed it down to the problem, just don't know how to fix it. I have removed all of the mechanisms and cables from the drivers side of the HVAC unit (under the dash), these are the ones that connect to the heater/vent control knobs on the dashboard.

I took a picture of the drivers side of the HVAC unit and can point to the problem. Unfortunately, I can't figure out how to upload a picture from my hard-drive.

Anyway ... if you take all of the mechanisms off of the HVAC unit on the drivers side, you will see two control arms. The control arm on the bottom right rotates about 180 degrees (maybe more) and controls whether the bottom vent door (inside the HVAC) allows air to flow to the floor vents or to the top vents (dash/defrost). The control arm on the top left rotates about 180 degrees (maybe more) and controls the whether the top vent door (inside the HVAC) allows the air to flow to the dash or to the defrost vents.

I have determined that the bottom left control arm sticks at either extreme of it's 180 degree rotation. This means that the bottom vent door is "sticking" at either extreme of movement. In other words, if the bottom vent door is fully-closed (allowing air-flow to the floor) it sticks and if it is fully open in the other direction it also sticks. It rotates freely in-between.

As a result, when the door sticks (closed or open) the control knob on the dash cannot produce enough torque to "unfreeze" it.

So now the question is ... how do I fix the lower HVAC door so that it doesn't stick at the extremes of it's rotation?
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Old 03-25-2012, 12:27 PM   #15
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Use Silicone to Unstick HVAC Door

I read another post that suggested drilling (or cutting) a hole in the HVAC, spraying Silicone on the sticky door and then covering up the hole with Duct Tape. Guess this is what I will try
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Old 06-22-2012, 11:51 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ppcblaster View Post
recirculation door not working either.
Mine either, so I finally had the repair shop duct-tape it shut.
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Old 07-26-2012, 04:41 PM   #17
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I had a similar problem with the vents sticking. If you disconnect the plastic selector to get to the control arms, you can move them manually (as pruietjr mentioned). Then, if you remove the vents above the radio, you can see straight in to the mechanics of it. One you determine which of the two flaps stick, try spraying MAF cleaner onto it. It loosened mine up just enough to work again. I'm tempted to try WD-40, but I don't want that smell permanently in my car....

Unfortunately, to replace the unit with the vent flaps, you have to remove the entire dash and get down to the firewall - not a trivial task, and probably not worth the effort. Hence the duct-tape method above...
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:35 AM   #18
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I had the same issue after replacing the heater control switch. Instead of removing the dash, my husband removed the vents above the stereo and used a pry bar to open the vent back up. This seems to have done the trick, for now. Just make sure you aren't too hard with the pry bar if you decide to do this. :)
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:05 AM   #19
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Somehow I lost track of this thread.....good to see it was revived as I am now about to install my 3rd set of cables because I keep "forcing" the door to open. The last 2 winters now I have only had defrost because I have manually moved the flap to that position and left it there. I will try the lube and seal method when I install this set of cables. I have another extra set just in case....lol

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