Focus Fanatics Forum banner

removal of crankshaft pulley bolt?

165K views 271 replies 21 participants last post by  catso 
#1 ·
will a 450 Nm impact wrench remove the crankshaft pulley bolt on a 1.6 zetec SE petrol engine?

I have tried breaker bars, chain wrenches, rubber loop wrenches, long handle spanners, tapping with hammer and heat treatment, plus release oil; all with no effect at all except to bust the timing slots in the camshafts (with a timing bar). Spent endless hours on this scenario and its beginning to wear me down!!! ~ How the hell do I shift this bolt? I have also tried two very very strong men pulling in opposite directions which didn't work (except for causing one of them great personal injury!).

Advice please....

cheers, many many thanx!!!

PS: the pulley itself is smooth and flat with NO holes for a holding tool to insert. It's actually a double pulley with the larger one nearest to the block and a slightly smaller pulley in front of it.
 
#222 ·
I'm now flying out tomorrow morn. Good enough with the swarf.......the pump will survive it and it'll end up in the filter. To clarify the 90 deg. bolt rotation......that's in relation to the CRANKSHAFT (which is why I wanted to keep track of any pulley clocking with my earlier suggested markings). So as not to concern yourself with having to keep track/adjust for any pulley clocking.......as an alternate procedure.......after the 30 ft/lbs initial torquing, mark/scribe the bolt (through the centre) with a horizontal line, parallel with the block/pan splitline, for example, and then rotate the bolt until the line is "vertical" and parallel with the vertical (virtual?) centreline of the block. Plus/minus 5 deg., should be close enough. Lining up a straight edge might be useful. Get my drift? You can still mark the pulley so that you can see if it's clocking. Anytime that you are torquing/rotating the bolt, again, make sure that the belt is not being "picked up" by the crankshaft sprocket......you don't want to damage it etc. This still may not be easy.
 
#223 ·
Good enough with the swarf.......the pump will survive it and it'll end up in the filter.
Right ~ I think I've got rid of as much as is humanly possible with the 'WD'; around 95-97%. I 've looked at it intently with a bright spotlight and I can't see any particles on the sides of the casing or on each piston bearing. I flushed copiously and used two 600ml 'trade size' cans!!

I don't need to wash it off - do I?

I also scraped the old RTV OFF 'the flats' of the underside of the block. Just need to do the same on the sump and then prepare it clean and dry for new RTV. I will refer back to what you said earlier about sump torque and bolt sequence etc.

The local garage did confirm what you said about the filter catching the remainder of the swarf!

cheers!
 
#226 ·
Based on everything you guys have told me, here is my action plan:

1. Oil bearings [with 5/30W], fully refit windage and sump.
2. Support engine from underside.
3. Remove engine mount (again)
4. Insert timing pin rotate crank CW to gently touch pin in the TDC position.
5. Lock crank at flywheel with [starter hole] tool. Then remove pin!
6. Check Cam shaft timing with timing bar across cam timing lobes.
7. Slip on free floating crank timing sprocket.
8. Slip new belt loosely over sprocket, [noting direction].
9. Fit lower belt cover.
10. Slip free floating pulley on to crank and 'drive home' with an old bolt - so that it is fully seated BUT NOT yet TORQUED!
11. Torque crankshaft bolt through stage one and two respectively; allowing the free floating pulley and timing sprocket to rotate at will [the crank is still held in position through the starter hole flywheel locking tool @ TDC].
12. Re-check cam timing with bar and lobe positions.
13. Hold each cam steady with 21mm spanner [across machined flats just behind 'P1']. Whilst holding, loosen each [free floating cam sprocket] bolt a little to allow cam sprocket rotation.
14. Slip new belt over cam sprockets and rotate till teeth engage.
15. Pull belt up to engage crank sprocket teeth ensuring that the slack is on the tensioner side.
16. Re-check both cam timing positions with bar.

Note: my tensioner is the FIXED ROLLER type [i.e. NOT eccentric].

17. Use 8mm allen key to turn the tensioner CW to tension the timing belt until "it's pointer" is between the two marks behind the tensioner roller, then tighten the two retaining bolts to the specified [ford] torque setting.
18. Re-check both cam timing positions with bar.
19. Lock cam sprockets [with 'SOMETHING'?] and re-tighten cam sprocket bolts to the specified [ford] torque setting.
20. Re-check both cam timing positions with bar.
21. Remove ALL locking tools, spanners etc.
22. Rotate crankshaft through three complete revolutions [cycles], ensuring that the valves are not fouling the pistons!!
23. Replace crank timing hole 'PLUG' [bolt].
24. Rebuild remainder of engine and auxiliaries that were removed for the belt replacement procedure.

Any good??

cheers!
 
#227 ·
Putting the timing belt on should not be difficult if you have the tensioner locked in with a pin as per the directions. At least it wasn't difficult on everything else I've ever worked on.
 
#230 ·
No washing needed! In prev. discussions, use of "soapy" products that are made to work with water was avoided, as drying off an assembly that has a lot of small gaps to "wick" and hold water is virtually impossible.

On a side note, I've often used soap & water, followed by clear water, after washing parts in solvents. The caveat is that this type of washing is ONLY possible on fully disassembled individual parts since immediate drying using compressed air blast and sometimes even a "shop" oven set warm when humid conditions prevail is essential.
If we were doing a complete rebuild on your engine, that would be the first step after complete disassembly, and would be repeated after any machine work on individual parts.

Water per se is not a complete no-no, if complete drying after use is possible to prevent corrosion of sensitive parts. After thorough cleaning & degreasing ALL internal metal parts are at risk for corrosion, so anything not immediately assembled and oiled for use needs corrosion protection while awaiting later use.


Dried residue from Varsol (white spirit) will be "washed" by the engine oil after assembly and first use (any puddles visible would have been wiped up) - remaining swarf is caught by the filter, remaining solvents suspended (dissolved) by the oil, so an earlier oil & filter change than normal would be advised. Barring a large amount of crud left behind this just means not stretching the first interval beyond normal limits. If concerned/unsure go ahead & change after a bit of use (you need to give the oil & filter time to do their job of cleaning).

Cheers!
 
#238 ·
Then you can go ahead and put just enough tension on the timing belt to keep it located on the crankshaft and on the loosened/free to rotate camshaft sprockets (more to keep the belt from getting damaged than anything). Locate the camshafts with the No. 1 cylinder cam lobe noses basically up......use the timing tool to locate them. Locate the crankshaft so that No.1 piston is at TDC (if you use the pin, remove it). Lock the flywheel, solidly with the flywheel lock. Torque the pulley bolt to the initial 30 ft/lbs, as you have determined it to be. The flywheel lock countertorque still feels "solid"? Everything should be peachy at this point. Getting to the 90 deg. bolt rotation is what concerns me re the countertorque.......probably about the last 30 degrees. Mark the bolt head (remember the angular 90 deg. rotation is in relation to the crankshaft, not the pulley, which may rotate with the bolt) so that you can determine when you've reached the 90 degrees. The torque is going to get "up there" quite quickly, so that if it feels as if you could be overloading the flywheel lock/ring gear tooth, then STOP (after about 60 degrees you could periodically check with a torque wrench set at about 140 ft/lbs and see if you've got up to that amount). Winding up the driveline to assist the flywheel lock for countertorque could be useful, if required, but you will need assistance. Final belt tensioning (I see it's got marks) and final checks to follow.
 
#240 ·
got sump put back on friday, used your [grumpy] torque recommendations and bolt tightening sequence. Cleaned flanges first!!

Bad weather sat/sun/mon ~ so no progress! Forecast said sunny on tuesday [today] but they were hopelessly inaccurate as usual i.e. rain, rain, rain.

See what tomorrow brings with the weather ay?

Just thought I'd update this thread.

cheers!
 
#242 · (Edited)
wednesday 02.06.10:

GOOD WEATHER - no rain, no hurricane [wind]. :)

So, having finished with the sump last friday I proceeded to lower the vehicle axle stands to a more workable level.

Then I used scissor jack with load bearing plank of wood to support engine from underneath the sump [again].

Then I removed the engine mount [again] for access.

Cleaned timing sprocket, crank pulley and crank end.

Lubricated new crank bolt thread and washer.

Pushed on timing sprocket [ no probs].

Loosely placed new timing belt over sprocket.

Fitted lower timing cover and nipped up bolts [didn't bother with torque settings on these].

Pushed on aux. pulley [as far as it would go].

Positioned to TDC [with timing pin & screwdriver in cylinder one]. Remembered to remove pin straight after!!

Fitted flywheel locking tool with a good solid purchase.

Made timing mark on bolt head, edge of pulley and lower cover.

Tightened new pulley/crank bolt by hand - then lightly with spanner. Then torqued with small wrench to 40Nm [ as per haynes]. Haynes doesn't say anything about taking note of the angle at this stage!

I continued to torque with long breaker bar: (remaining alert to 'angle' and 'position of tools' etc.

stage 1 ~ 30% [with caution]
stage 2 ~ 60% [with caution]
= 90%.

I then checked the torque [as per 'grumpy'] with the large torque wrench applying:

100 Lbs ~ 'click!'
110 Lbs ~ 'click!'
120 Lbs ~ 'click!'
130 Lbs ~ 'click!'
140 Lbs respectively [with caution] ~ 'click!'

150 Lbs ~ no click without further bolt rotation?

@ GRUMPY ~ Is that tight enough ~ the bolt won't seem to give any more torque?

The pulley didn't move from the alignment marks I made!

Checked cam timing [with bar]. OK

Slackened cam sprocket bolts a bit more so that cam sprockets could rotate freely.

Placed cam belt over cam sprockets and around loosened tensioner [ made sure all the slack was on the tensioner side!].

Then there was 'a little fettling' [adjustments] to get the belt and sprocket teeth to mesh together and remove slack.

Then I jammed the cam sprockets with a screwdriver so that I could lock the sprockets lightly with a spanner into that position.

Checked cam timing [with bar]. OK

Used 8mm allen key to pull the timing tensioner across so that the marker is between the marks on the casing. Then used small torque wrench to 20Nm [ as per haynes], to tighten 2 tensioner mounting bolts.

Then used small torque wrench to 60Nm [ as per haynes], to tighten 2 cam sprocket bolts [whilst holding cams with 21mm spanner across machined flats @ P1].

Checked cam timing [with bar]. OK

Checked 'home made' crank timing marks [for alignment]. OK

On the crank bolt, turned/spun the whole lot around 3 complete revolutions [360° x 3] ~ nothing touched; re: pistons/valves.

Have I forgotten anything please?

I know I have to rebuild the remaining engine parts and fit the auxiliary belt!

Cheers!
 
#243 ·
Posted via FF MobileYou didn`t ype it, but I`m sure that timing was rechecked after crank rotation now you`ve made such a nice mark for it..... Sounds great! glad to hear the basics are all back together. Tip one & celebrate, the ancilaries can come later....
 
#246 ·
Do you have any idea what the final bolt rotation angle (degrees) total was after torquing the bolt to the initial 40NMs? Remember, after torquing the bolt to the initial 40NMs, the bolt is supposed to be rotated a further 90 degrees in relation to the crankshaft. My idea of checking the torque with the torque wrench set to 140 ft/lbs was just to see how high the torque was getting during the final 30 degrees of bolt rotation. It's up to you, but if you don't have at least 85 degrees of bolt rotation, then I'd redo it. The crankshaft seems to have been held just fine by the flywheel tool.......and the bolt hasn't been installed for years like before, on disassembly. You should be able to loosen it off and redo without a problem this time.
 
#247 · (Edited)
...retensioned/retorqued crank bolt again [i.e. did it again] see amended post #242 [above]. There has to be at least 90 degrees of bolt rotation now + the 40Nm as well.

Should be fine now - yes?

Just wish I'd used the flywheel locking tool from the start instead of the locking pin (that bent slightly) and caused a shit load of trouble!

Cheers!
 
#248 ·
I guess I missed the "=90%" in all that. As long as you're sure that the timing is bang on (even one camshaft being a degree or two off will affect engine performance and idle quality) and that the belt tension is correct, and that both camshaft sprocket bolts are torqued to spec., then, I guess you're done. On with the easy stuff.
 
#250 ·
Well, the crank touched the timing pin [with screwdriver in P1 at its highest point] and the cam timing bar [tool] laid flat across the cylinder head surface and snugged up to the timing flats on both camshafts similtaneously. That's about as good as I can do with manual tools ~ not sure about the odd 1% to tell you the truth? If I had hundreds of pounds of electronic equipment and precise professional engineering machinary like a garage then I may be able to ensure 100% accuracy; but as it stands I think I have to be realistic and accept that there may be 1% error?

When I fire it up how will I know if it's 'out'; what will happen i.e. how do I perceive the timing error - what are the signs please?

NOTE: The rest of it has also been reassembled now b.t.w.! :)

Cheers!
 
#252 ·
Timing the camshafts to the crankshaft is strictly a mechanical job using the specified rig/timing pin and bar......nothing fancy or electronic required......but following the correct procedures is necessary. From what you've described with your final checking of the timing......#1 piston at TDC and the camshafts alignment/timing bar perfectly aligned with the remaining unbroken side of the camshaft slots......you should be bang on.
 
#253 ·
Posted via FF Mobile^^^^ At least as good as factory assembly with the care you used, MORE precise than keyed sprocket engines, Checked & rechecked, No worries mate! (grin) Most common OOPS! I know of is tightening cam sprockets B4 tensioning timing belt, so when the belt is tightened the timing changes. Even that would be caught by the recheck after hand rotation, which also tests for any smaller variations accidentally introduced - you`re totally covered- well beyond any minimum standards of precision!
 
#254 ·
Timing the camshafts to the crankshaft is strictly a mechanical job using the specified rig/timing pin and bar......nothing fancy or electronic required......but following the correct procedures is necessary. From what you've described with your final checking of the timing......#1 piston at TDC and the camshafts alignment/timing bar perfectly aligned with the remaining unbroken side of the camshaft slots......you should be bang on.
Great!!! ~ how will I know if it's NOT [bang on] though?

All the remaining: tubes, pipes, cables, plugs have been reconnected, oil filled up and battery reconnected!!!

Now all I have to do is be brave enough to 'turn the key' ...and 'I bottled it' big time; just walked away - unsure what will happen?!?!

"HELP!" ~ apprehensive about all this?

Erm ~ the broken cam timing 'EARS'; I can only find one of them, been all over the engine bay and floor with a magnetic pick up tool and torch; but still can't find the other one? Surely it can't be inside the engine or cylinder head? I literally have no idea where it could have ricocheted to!!!!!!!! I did run the magnetic pick up tool over the cylinder head BEFORE I put the rocker cover back on though!!!!

Cheers!
 
#257 ·
Yes ~ it has 'lit-off', does start very well, runs smooth and idles fine, instant throttle response - in the driveway! Up to normal running temperature!

Now, I suppose I have to drive 'round the block' and see what happens next? [woot]

Hope it goes OK?

Thanks for your 'bad-timing' tips 'above'!!

Cheers!
 
#258 ·
I hope this thread will remain on here for a long time, as in my own opinion - it is an extensive archive and an important reference point for anyone with similar issues; it details lots of scenarios and pitfalls that anyone could unwittingly fall into themselves. This material should help quite a few fanatics in the future to resolve those issues without too much time and expense! Quite a few good helpful photos [as they say: a picture is worth a thousand words] to assist the dialogue in progress.

This repair would not have been possible without the help of Grumpy, Sailor and anyone else's advice and encouragement to date! You deserve the highest accolade for your humour, perseverance and persistence! For which I am personally and truly indebted. THANK YOU ONCE AGAIN! Keep up the good work!!

Cheers!

[cheers]
 
#260 ·
It's just too bad that from the start it seemed to be difficult to obtain accurate info on the Sigma engine (even from UK websites/forums etc.), and the confusion with obtaining the correct/applicable tooling, did not help. I'm glad that it "lit off", and it's running. You did very well, especially with where you were having to work.
 
#261 ·
I agree! ~ It would have been nice to know that it used an integrated bolt & washer [one piece]. It would have been nice to know that the flywheel locking tool was superior to a 'bendy' locking pin ~ BUT I KNOW NOW [8D]

Yes working in the street in all weather's, with thieves all around just waiting to steal your tools and parts isn't a pleasant experience!! [whip]

Cheers! [thumb]
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top