"How To" SVT & Zetec Power Steering Pump & Line Replacement
Pump | PS line | PS line fitting
Get metric crescent rachets 8,10,18 or at least stubbys
Pully puller get one from ford or the kind that applies force to the center rather that grabbing the rim of pulley.
5, 10 & 12 mm sockets w/extentions
Jack up car on 2 stands under front
Dump Old Fluid
1 Unbolt the coolant tank; popup with screwdriver in back slot (leave hoses attached!) & out of the way,
2 Pull the PS reservoir out of the slots (no screws, just rubber grommets)
3 Unclamp the small return hose on PS pump
Dump the reservoir fluid in a milk jug.
Pull Sepentine belt with 8 cresent & pipe for leverage on the tensioner
Pull PS pump
Pump is above ac pump
4 Unbolt 2 12mm along PS line on top of header,
Pull clamp for return line
Pump Unbolt 4 10mm
Trick on lower driver side bolt is to loosen first ;
pull other 3; then you can pull the pump out as you unbolt.
Maneuver pump through top of engine
Pull PS Line
Unbolt pressure line with an 18 crescent wrench. I clamped that bad boy down, it's on there.
Getting to PS LINE underneath the rack by:Unbolt the plate holds both the pressure & return line to the rack
Pull line from that end.
Unbolt 5mm bolt that holds the return & pressure lines in place
(I got to it from the top with a long extention.)
Remove pulley with pulley puller & put on with supplied bolt & nut
Position lower driver side bolt first then
Put in black O-ring in the pump and bolt line fitting on pump; torque it well.
Bolt the pump in place
Reinstall PS LINE
Push in the tapered tip in Pump Fitting till it clicks in.
Push-in connection at the rack and bolt plate attached to the pressure line.
OPTIONAL-Replace both the pressure and return line o-rings at the rack while you're in there.
Bolt 2 12mm along PS line on top of header,
Clamp return line
Bolt Pressure line from bracket
Put in plastic braket & bolt 5mm bolt
Fill the reservoir with new fluid,
I left the car up on BOTH jackstands
pull Fuse 12, and crank the engine for about 5 seconds while turning the wheel stop to stop. Fill the reservoir and crank again.
Repeat the "crank, turn and fill" until the fluid going to the jug is clear and clean - should take a over a quart. On the last crank leave the reservoir barely empty. Put the return hose back on, replace the reservoir, fill it, and replace the coolant tank. Plug the fuse 12 back in and run the car, turning the wheel. Check the PS fluid level is between min & max.
Replace Serpentine Belt & Cover
great write up, I'd sticky this
Doing a WOT will also prevent the vehicle from starting and eliminates the need to pull fuse 12. The WOT crank is there for flooded cleanout.
Would this procedure pretty much hold true for a '08 Focus?
Nice write up [hihi][hihi]
Also in for the sticky.
The line and fitting are sold seperately, so do you need to flare the new line or do you just put the new fitting on?
I'm currently replacing the powersteering pump on my 2000 ZX3. I notice this post shows an O - Ring being placed in the union bolt hole on the power steering pump:
I looked through the factory service manual and didn't notice any O-Ring being placed there. Anyone replaced their power steering pump lately can elaborator on this??
Also, I tried using the new powersteering pump without the O-Ring and it leaks through the union bolt pressure line (attached to the bolt). The O-Rings supplied by the new pump did not fit in the union bolt hole. Or am I suppose to replace the the entire powersteering high pressure line??
The fitting provided should look like the OEM one below. If you look closely, it has two O-rings; the white one about mid way that seals the fitting against the pump body, and a black O-ring in the bore of the fitting (you can just see it at the top) that seals the ps line against the fitting bore.
iirc, the ps line has a narrow groove machined in it and the fitting has a tiny circlip below the black O-ring in the bore (not visible) that clicks into the groove of the ps line to hold the fitting positively on the end of the line.
When I came time to relocate my ps line, I replaced a section of the pump end of the line with a new ps line and fitting and used a compression fitting to join the new and old line (so I didn't have to mess with the rack end.)
You're dealing with very high working pressure in the ps line so the leak proof sealing of the components isn't always as simple as it seems.
Not sure if that helps any.
Thank you! That answers alot on how the union bolt is stoping the PS fluid from seeping out between the union bolt & pressure line. My new powersteering unit didn't come with a new fitting, I think they just gave me an O-Ring and hope I somehow stick the O-Ring in the old fitting.
How the heck did you remove the circlips when the union bolt is on the PS line? It's such a tiny opening to work with!
Perhaps "circlip" wasn't the best term; it's more of a very thin closed C-shaped wire with some springiness in it. You can't use traditional circlip pliers on it, for example, to compress it. (It's a bit like those plastic parts with one way tabs that snap together one time only during assembly.)
If I were you, I'd proceed by buying the fitting first - Ford part # F5RZ-3R608-B about $ 6-8 bucks - just to be safe. I say this because I think the fitting is intended to be installed once only and removing it will probably destroy or damage the circlip/ C-clip. Could be wrong on that though.
I would also suggest you remove the fitting from the ps line by carefully applied brute force. I didn't have to do that operation - I had a new fitting and new OEM ps line (parts came separately) - so anyone else who with experience on that can chirp in.
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