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Old 03-21-2013, 07:57 PM   #31
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I didn't get bolts with the new pump, reused the old ones but the "pan" head seemed to cock slightly when torqued down...
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Old 01-21-2014, 08:42 AM   #32
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just wanted to add another thanks to this thread.

worth noting, as I've seen elsewhere across the internet, the water pump can be removed and reinstalled without pulling the motor mount and dropping the engine. It is tricky, and it only goes one way, but it can be done. I did it yesterday. Didn't have a torque wrench handy so didn't want to loosen the motor mount -- just took the 4 bolts out of the AC Compressor and hung it aside out of the way with a wire coathanger.

As has been mentioned, the trick to getting it out starts with flipping it 180 degrees so the impeller is pointing away from the engine block. Then you just have to rotate and twist it just right. It felt like one of those "magic trick" games where you try to free the ball from the cage and it will only come out one way... I can't really explain exactly how it's done, just be patient and keep trying. and then reverse it to get the new one in.

also, thanks to this thread I decided to go ahead and replace the overflow reservoir bottle - I had noticed that I was losing coolant, but pretty slowly... couldn't find any leaks around any hoses or around the thermostat housing, no cracks in the radiator, etc. After I took the old bottle out (which was yellow and really nasty looking down in there), I could see a couple of those hairline cracks on the very bottom of it.
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Old 02-22-2014, 11:48 PM   #33
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You know you rock, right??
I *knew* I was right and the auto parts guys are going to eat crow!! ;-)

I've been looking for this all over the 'Net, no diagrams for the DOHC engines with the water pump on the accessory belt!

Me, I've got the Guinea Pig model, 2000 and while I am glad I can work on it myself, it always helps to have the correct information!!!
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Old 11-14-2014, 11:52 AM   #34
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New Member first post

Hey guys new member here and first post. Had my 2001 ZX3 for about 1 1/2 years now and done a fair amount of rebuilding. I've decided it's time for this. Only reason I haven't done it yet is because I've been afraid of it.

Anyway, I've got a slow leak coming from somewhere and I changed (almost) all hoses this time last year. So I've got a few more to check before taking on this project. Am I only one who feels like this would be a great car if they didn't start falling apart at ~150k miles?

So thanks for this and everyone who has had input. It'll really help people who either can't or won't get rid of their old Foci.
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Old 02-21-2015, 10:58 PM   #35
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Aloha, new here...hello ?

Thanks for the helpful tips, I've gotten to the part where I pulled all the 4 bolts out of the pump, but the pump won't budge.

I've tried the classic tap with a hammer which has moved to a screw driver/pry bar and a 4# sledge. Any of you guys ever had a pump get stuck? My only other idea is to find a steel bar and drill holes so I can attach it to the pump.

Thanks!
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Old 06-20-2015, 12:48 PM   #36
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does anyone else's water pump seem like it is seized into the housing? If been beating on the pump trying to remove it but no luck, don't want to damage the housing..the pump is the original one with over 130k miles.
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Old 07-13-2016, 12:02 AM   #37
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Pulley or Water Pump?

Well hopefully I can figure something out using this thread, nice job btw! Heres my issue, wobbling water pump pulley. Here's a video of someone with the same issue:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6w2l0Ui0yjk

Do I need to replace the whole water pump? Or is the pulley seperate? I had to replace the belt that drives the alternator, P/S, and AC Comp and the mechanic told me i could drive it to him without it overheating because the water pump is driven by the timing belt(?) I drove it to him with no issue and no overheating. Now that the pulley is wobbling something fierce, it appears to be on the same belt i just replaced. So im confused, what drives the water pump, and how was i able to drive it with no serpentine? Unless im getting the terms wrong.

This is the belt i replaced:
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Old 07-13-2016, 02:50 AM   #38
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You weren't able to drive it with no serpentine and hoping you didn't. Pulley generally not the problem, the water pump is unless pulley is broken or the bolts have come loose.
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Old 07-13-2016, 02:55 AM   #39
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Going to be checking the bolts tomorrow. The belt I drove without for 3 blocks was the one in the picture I posted above. Of course I didnt have P/S, AC, Alternator, or anything else belt driven, but it made it. The mechanic fixed the belt tensioner that had snapped off, then i drove it away. Its been about 600miles since then.
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Old 07-13-2016, 06:03 AM   #40
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Mechanic was confusing models, you're lucky it was a short trip and the engine didn't get damaged from overheating.

SPI engine in many sedans & a few wagons from that time period had a water pump driven by the cam belt, both zetec & duratec engines avail. at the time have the more common driven by serpentine setup for the water pump.

Can't drive it that far with much of a wobble without the belt coming off, did the wobble show up afterwards?

Like amc49 said, unless your bolts are loose connecting pulley to pump the pump itself is the likely cause for a wobble there when the bearings go. Can't drive far at all if that happens, seal goes & coolant sprays out. First sign is usually a drip from the weep hole before the pulley even wobbles.

Either way if it's wiggling you won't make it far.
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