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Old 08-29-2008, 12:10 AM   #11
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Remove the serp belt cover. The pic is labled wrong and I can't figure out how to change or remove it.
There are two 13mm bolts holding this up and you need to get under the car to get them.
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Old 08-29-2008, 12:23 AM   #12
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Get your 10mm wrench to loosen up the 3 water pump pulley bolts. The serp belt is still on and this is the time. You would have a heck of a time trying to get them loose later. Your not taking the bolts out yet. This pic shows the serp belt off but trust me, leave it on and loosen the bolts. The bolt that is circled is one of three that holds on the water pump. I put a new one in while I was in the area.
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ZETEC Timing Belt Replacement-water-pump-pulley-.jpg  

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Old 08-29-2008, 12:32 AM   #13
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Let's remove the serp belt. Need the 15mm wrench for this one. I also used a second wrench to double the leverage. I did this from below the car and you push the wrench away from you as far as you can. Then slip the belt off towards the engine. Snake the belt out and put off to the side. I replaced the belt and tensioner.
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Old 08-29-2008, 12:47 AM   #14
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Now the serp belt is off so remove the water pump bolts and pull the pulley off. I can't remember but had to use the floor jack under the oil pan to raise or lower the engine to get it out. You'll see.

Now the next timing belt cover. Remove the serp belt idler pulley with your 13mm wrench. I raised the engine up for this. I needed to have the bolt, which is long, clear the wheel well. There's 4 more bolts, three 13mm and the T-50 torx socket. I put all this hardware and the water pump bolts in one bag put off to the side.
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ZETEC Timing Belt Replacement-mid-timing-cover-off-front.jpg  


Last edited by lhc_focus; 08-31-2008 at 12:31 PM.
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Old 08-29-2008, 12:54 AM   #15
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Lastly we take off the lower timing belt cover. Two 8mm bolts. Bag the bolts or put them right back into the holes.
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Old 08-29-2008, 01:37 AM   #16
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Remove the 4 spark plugs. It will make it very easy to rotate the engine. But before doing so, put the vacuum hose down into the head and suck any dirt out first.

Time to find TDC of the engine. This is where the kit comes in. The bar and timing pin. You will need the 18mm socket to rotate the crank sprocket by the nut. You should really consider putting in the timing pin. Very important to use the pin. I didn't. Sooooo, I had to take everything apart again.

The pin is located in the front of the engine behind the cat. I could see it but my big hand could not reach it. If you can, it will take a 13mm deep well socket or wrench to remove it. Then simply get your pin and screw it in.

If not you will have to take the cat off. About another 40 minutes or so. How about I make that another post?

So the pin is in, you rotate the crank clockwise very easy and you feel it hit the pin. Great job. Now take a look at the cams. The slots will be lined up,slip the bar into the cam slots. The tolerance of the slots and the thickness of the bar are really close. It doesn’t look like they will line up but by slightly moving the crank you will get them just right. The bar went into one cam and had to ever so slightly move the crank to slide the bar into the other.

The engine is now mechanically TDC. This is the only way to know.
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ZETEC Timing Belt Replacement-cam-shaft-bar-now-installed.jpg  

ZETEC Timing Belt Replacement-pin-installed-stop-crank-tdc.jpg  

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Old 08-30-2008, 07:30 PM   #17
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Before we take the belt off lets paint mark the crank sprocket. This will help you ensure the timing stays at TDC. Here's a pic of it.

To remove the belt you have to back off the belt tensioner bolt, 10mm, 4 turns. The tensioner has a metal tab that sits in a slot. When the bolt is backed off you can grab the tab and pull it out. This releases the belt tension and makes life easier when removing the belt. Now the belt doesn't just fall off, it will take a bit of effort. Don't use a tool to pry off, just wiggle it off. Don't want to create more work.

The timing belt kit I used came with the belt, tensioner and 2 idler pullies. I used the larger pulley and tossed the smaller one. Install the new timing belt tensioner but leave it loose.

This also gives you the oppurtunity to replace the serp belt tensioner and water pump.
Attached Thumbnails
ZETEC Timing Belt Replacement-crank-sprocket-marks-found.jpg  

ZETEC Timing Belt Replacement-timing-belt-top.jpg  

ZETEC Timing Belt Replacement-timing-belt-tensioner-tab-1.jpg  

ZETEC Timing Belt Replacement-timing-belt-tensioner-tab-out-install-belt.jpg  


Last edited by lhc_focus; 08-31-2008 at 12:35 PM.
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Old 08-30-2008, 07:42 PM   #18
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My situation was not just replacing the belt. I found my timing had actually jumped 30+ degrees when the timing belt ribs came off. So when I thought I was at TDC I actually wasn't.

The old belt was removed, I had the cam bar in place but once I removed the exhaust and installed the timing pin I was able to rotate the crank sprocket clockwise. You will know when you hit the pin. Anyway here's a pic of the 2 paint marks and the compass I put on the sprocket to show how far off it was.

I noted the number of teeth on the crank sprocket along with a 360* circle. As you can see each crank tooth is 18* of timing. Mine had jumped 2 teeth or 36* of timing.
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ZETEC Timing Belt Replacement-360-sphere-show-timing.jpg  

ZETEC Timing Belt Replacement-crank-sprocket-marks-found.jpg  


Last edited by lhc_focus; 08-31-2008 at 12:56 PM.
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Old 08-30-2008, 08:07 PM   #19
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Ok, you have replaced the serp belt tensioner, water pump, timing belt tensioner(bolt backed out 4 turns with tab out of slot), timing belt idler pulley and your ready to install the belt.

A second set of hands would help with the next step. It's very important when installing the new timing belt to keep a good tension. Start by looping the belt around the crank sprocket, now this is a son of gun to keep on. It has a need to jump off. You'll figure it out. Anyway, you will be tugging on this in the counter clockwise direction which is opposite the crank rotation. So, I put the 18mm socket with a 12" extension and keep my left leg pressed against the 1/2" drive to keep the crank in place. Roll the belt around the idler pulley and around the exhaust cam. This is where the belt wants to jump back 1 rib. As you bring it over the top of the exhaust keep good tension toward the intake cam sprocket. Then around the tensioner pulley. Not so bad was it?

The belt will need a little help over the tensioner. If it's way to tight then most likely you have slack in the belt because it jumped back during the install.

When your done, take a look at your paint marks. Are they still lined up? Yes, time to set the tensioner.

Is there noticable slack in the belt, mostly from the crank sprocket to the idler pulley? Yes, take the belt off and start over.

Last edited by lhc_focus; 08-31-2008 at 01:04 PM.
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Old 08-30-2008, 08:30 PM   #20
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Get your 6mm allen wrench and 10mm socket. There is a indented line on the metal tab. This and the notch need to be lined up. Put the metal tab into the hole. Use the 6mm allen wrench in the hexagonal hole to line up the two. Once they are, tighten down on the bolt.
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ZETEC Timing Belt Replacement-timing-belt-tensioner-tab-new.jpg  

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