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Old 07-19-2005, 07:00 PM   #1
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Angry WTF else can go wrong!!!

Came home from work today and decided I would re-hookup the J&S as per the original instructions. All I had to do was hook up ONE WIRE, since it was blistering hot outside I decide to pull my tractor out of the garage and back the Focus in so I could have alittle shade.

I pull the tractor out, but I left the front loader attachment inside since it was already off and just scooted it up out of the way. As I'm backing into the garage a co-worker drives by and honks the horn so I look up for a second and politely wave.

Before I get my hand down I hear a thud, followed by the car abruptly slowing down and the sound of thick metal sliding slowly across concrete. I backed into the #$%@% front end loader off my tractor

So I exit the car to look, a nice scratch on the plastic bumper. I think WHEW thats all, then I notice a scratch on the hatch down to the metal I think "thats not TOO bad I can fix it"

As I stand there I look over to the passengers side and see another scratch.... about an INCH WIDE and 3-4 INCHES LONG OH did I mention it was in a DENT

SO after dropping several F- BOMBS I hook up the J&S, knock on the engine, it LIGHTS UPS this time and it actually retards the timing

SO I take it for a test drive, and I'm driving up the road and its showing NO knock, at all. This is with the sensitivity turned up all the way. I put the J&S gauge where I can see it, take off down the road, get into boost and at 10psi around 6k I see one light, only one light. I do this a couple more times just to make sure, and the same thing happens just 1 light on the gauge so I'm thinking "cool" John at J&S told me that sometimes this does occure and you actually have a quiet engine.

I decide to do one last stent down the road, just to make sure. Around 10-11psi the car feels like the timing is being pulled, but no lights on the gauge or the unit itself. So I check the gauge plug in, everything is fine. I pull back out, ease into boost this time around 10psi it starts retarding timing. I go again this time around 9psi it pulls timing.

I think "AHA, the boost retard is hooked up" so I unplug the vacuum line and start for home, well around 7-8psi it starts AGAIN, feels just like it pulling alot of timing. So I pull over turn off the car unplug the J&S completely.... I was thinking that it maybe messing up, due to timing being pulled with no lights showing anywhere and the boost retard unplugged and capped off.

As I pull out and head for home I get into 4th gear ease into the boost and it feels like its pulling timing around 6psi. By now I'm thinking "BULLCRAP" this is NOT right

Then it hits me..... I've seen this before. I get home, pop the hood and low and behold.... a nice 8 inch long crack in my aluminum intake right in the weld

The crack isn't wide at all, but when you start boosting it must be opening up causing the missing condition. This is the second time its cracked as most of you know, the welding on it is real nice, and the aluminum isn't real thin. I believe its just the stress of boost on it making it flex and crack. I'll be sending it back again tommorrow for further study and repair, this time there will be more bracing added to help eliminate the flex.

Guess thats one of the downsides of having experimental parts on you car


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Old 07-19-2005, 07:40 PM   #2
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Well at least your not alone in the problems department. It sounds like you have the same luck as me

sorry to hear bout it.

Brandon.
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Old 07-19-2005, 07:47 PM   #3
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Good luck to ya..On the good side you didn't have the loader end up too high causing a major part of the building to colapse, I've seen that and it wasen't pretty the whole corner of a block shop building crashing down and the corner of the roof just drooping down.

If the manifold is cracking at the weilds it may be from needing cleaned more I hear the least impurities realy comprimise the weild.I have very little weilding experience and absolutly 0 experience with weilding aluminum but from what some of my customers "top notch fabricators" tell me the aluminum has to be absolutly clean some even use acid to clean the metal I think that's the bigest downside to aluminum, that and you can't just throw it off your truck without tearing it up :)
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Old 07-19-2005, 08:29 PM   #4
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Its clean the problem is the Alum is not thick enough and it is flexing so where ever the flex stops is where the crack is going to be , Like taking a piece of metal and bending it back and forth to break it where ever the pivet point it is where the break is going to be

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Old 07-19-2005, 11:00 PM   #5
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This is an experimental intake, and things are going to go wrong. When the intake is in good working order it works WONDERFULLY, and it looks pretty cool too

If I remember right, when the manifold was changed to the aluminum one it picked up around 20whp on the same tune at the same PSI. Tom feel free to correct me if I'm wrong

I have faith in Tom, I know when it comes back it'll be ready for some serious abuse
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Old 07-20-2005, 02:19 AM   #6
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Oh what a headache day. I've had those. Thankfully none lately!! Hope it gets better!!
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