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Old 01-03-2005, 03:16 PM   #1
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changing to Jrsc because of the cold weather

My car has a vortech engine, and pulled out 230 whp.
click my page

The problem is I have to stored my car for winter(-20 average in canada). Therefore, it is not pratical and i kind of need a daily car. So i decided to swich to Jrsc.

My question is how much whp and wtq should i make with Jrsc and my current setup.

Stock ENGINE
Cat cams stage1
Focus central Throttle Body
Race header
flex pipe
Focus Sport full Exhaust
(Vortech Aftercooler kit with 2.62 pully)
H&R Street spring
DisabloSport Performace chip
svt MAF
MafterBurner

and what is the different between Vortech and Jrsc depend on the feeling?

and what kind of pully for jrsc do i need to make 175-185 whp and 170-180 wtq?


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Old 01-03-2005, 05:18 PM   #2
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i dont think you can make that much torque with the jrsc .... if only you could tho
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Old 01-03-2005, 06:10 PM   #3
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order the powerworks kit, quite a bit pricier than the JRSC, but much more power/torque...they claim 90 hp gain

www.powerworks.net

this kit is made by COSWORTH, the same guys who developed the SVT engine. the computer calibration is also a full emmissions/drivability calibration, so it will allow you to retain your warranty, like the JRSC, IF you have it installed by your dealership
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Old 01-04-2005, 05:47 PM   #4
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Question: why is the Vortech not usable in Winter but the Jackson is?
Have you looked at the Pro-charger? They have a kit out ... but info only available by mail.
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Old 01-05-2005, 12:21 AM   #5
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the vortech and procharger are inadvisable for winter drivers because there's no way to tune out the boost, which is undesirable in low traction weather conditions. a roots/screw type supercharger only generates boost under high engine loads, so it retains a naturally aspirated drive quality at part throttle. the centrifugal superchargers generate boost based on engine rpm, not load, so if you downshift to slow down, even with your throttle fully closed, the supercharger will still be pumping a bunch of air through the IAC valve, which will most likely then try to close because it's detecting too much airflow, and you stall out...unless you have it tuned to avoid that
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Old 01-06-2005, 08:59 AM   #6
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Many thanks there , Crazymechanic, ... I was looking at the pro-charger and now the decision is made easy - Jackson it is .... without any intercooler. The dealer said they will install it if I order it through them. The charger and the install, about $4000 US. The bonus: I got to keep my factory 6 years extended bumper to bumper warranty :)

The temperature here tonight will drop to -30 with snow in the forcast .... if I want an everyday car with more power, I guess the root charger is the way to go.

Unfortunately, the Jackson will give me about 210 max @7psi without other mods (from the svtf's stock 170) A cold air intake may add a couple and that will still make a whole lot less than 200 on the wheel ..... I will be extremly happy if I get 200 on the wheel without spending a pile of cash. I guess I can go crazy and add HD clutch plate, intercooler and higher boost.

What mod you have on your 03 svt? Any other suggestions?

Eschew ... from the freezing NORTH
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Old 01-06-2005, 09:13 AM   #7
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want to sell the vortech? pm me
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Old 01-06-2005, 09:19 AM   #8
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eschew...there is no intercooler upgrade for the JRSC, you would have to go custom for that. the powerworks is the only roots charger kit out there with an intercooler AND proper tuning. my understanding of the JRSC is that it has a little chip that doubles your fuel injector pulses when it detects boost...not the best way of tuning, in my opinion. I would wait for the svt kit from powerworks...cosworth designed our svt engines, and they came up with the calibrations, I would trust a charger kit that came from them more than anything on the market.
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Old 01-06-2005, 09:31 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by crazymechanic
...the powerworks is the only roots charger kit out there with an intercooler AND proper tuning. my understanding of the JRSC is that it has a little chip that doubles your fuel injector pulses when it detects boost...not the best way of tuning, in my opinion.
Why not just get it custom tuned by tom, mcnews etc.. I myself live in the same climate, it's c-c-c-cold in the winter and very hot in the summer. I'm just lookin' for a little kick to the svtf (~200hp/160lb/ft are my goals) and am planning for a JRSC with custom tune since this is what my budget will allow. I just want a little more fun out of my daily driver, not a track monster....and no one can argue the reliability of the JRSC unit.
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Old 01-08-2005, 03:07 AM   #10
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Just wanted to clarify a few things here...
Quote:
Originally posted by crazymechanic
the vortech and procharger are inadvisable for winter drivers because there's no way to tune out the boost,
What? "Tune out" boost? Not true. People are spooked at the Vortech's mentioning in the user manual of not running the blower below I believe 20* F due to the blower's oiling system. Vortech mentions this primarily because there are idiots out there that start up a cold car, immediately start flooring it, and seize up the blowers. Its recommended to use a block heater in REALLY cold areas, but this is just to manage the flow characteristics of the oil through the dinky little oil mister valve. The Procharger isn't affected by this as much because of its self-contained oiling system.
Quote:
a roots/screw type supercharger only generates boost under high engine loads, so it retains a naturally aspirated drive quality at part throttle.
Wrong. Just like any supercharger, a roots/screw spins right along with the engine RPM and will generate boost unless something releases/bypasses this. The JRSC (and most non-industrial blower systems) have a bypass system which allows them to "free-spin" and not generate boost when not at WOT. It has nothing to do with the class of blower.
Quote:
so if you downshift to slow down, even with your throttle fully closed, the supercharger will still be pumping a bunch of air through the IAC valve, which will most likely then try to close because it's detecting too much airflow, and you stall out...unless you have it tuned to avoid that
If that's happening, its a half-ass engineered kit. This is one of a few reasons centrifugals and turbos use bypass/divertor/blow-off valves. When you lift off the throttle the bypass valve opens and boost is recirculated back to in front of the blower. There's no major buildup of pressure overpowering the IAC valve or anything like that.
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