So I've talked to a couple of you peeps before and gotten a few answers and well the car has left me stranded again..
A little background...
Car has a custom turbo kit put together.. And it was tuned by Focus Power..
It has the diablo chip so I can't really datalog.
The issue..
When the car is cold.. It's runs pretty good... High idle but it runs... As soon as it gets to operating temp... It bogs down and eventually shuts off... Then it won't stay on... As in.. I turn the key.. Car turns on for 2 seconds and immediately shuts off...
So if I wait about an hour.. It'll run for a bit until well it warms up again...
I checked the coil pack... One terminal was all black and charred... So.. I ordered a massive ignition package... I replaced the screaming demon coil pack I had with a MSD coil pack along with massive wires.. I Also put in motor craft spark plugs from CFM... I changed the valve cover gasket, and I also have cleaned the MAF...
I honestly have ran out of ideas... I check the wires to the coil pack no issues there..
I did get a cel before and it said it could be MAF, or coil pack I forgot the code. I since clear the code since I replaced all the parts and well it broke down again today. I haven't been able to pull a new cel yet.. It hasn't popped up yet....
Idk if this means anything but when all the issues pop up like the bogging down and shutting off my Air Fuel Ratio gauge stays in the red for lean mixtures...
My last idea is a clogged cat... Could that be the stick in my ass?
I pulled the maf off again.. Notice two terminals are corroded..
I'm getting a replacement from a local fanatic...
Once new maf is in I'm also going to replace the fuel filter....
If it fails still... I guess compression test will be next... I have to buy the tool so it's gonna have to wait.. It's fairly cheap I know but I'm on a strict budget..
Received a new maf today from Adam Graf... Was a beautiful day so i didnt want to wait till this weekend and i did a swap... And sadly it wasn't the maf either... Car idled fine for about 5 minutes... As soon as I accelerate it starts bogging down and finally dies...
I can also drive the car while its cold.. But like I said 5ish minutes later it dies...
Depending on budget I'm going to buy a compression tool and try that..
I also sprayed carb cleaner on the lines and it had no effect on idle... So no leak to notice..
Expensive game changing parts blindly... Sean did what I told him and found the vac leak, he made a tester that he found on google and one of us posted it in this thread earlier. It stalls or dies?
I'm not handy I guess im a bit scared building it.. ([][][][][] i know lol) But I will try it asap hopefully I do it right lol thanks man. I appreciate it..
And it starts bogging down on idle. Then just dies... I try to turn it back on. And it's on for a second then dies... I have to wait about an hour or two before it turns on again...
So it dies... with a vac leak it will start and run, maybe needs to throttle up so it won't stall but runs. Always need to check for leaks anyway and you ptobably have one but not the issue. How old is your fuel pump and filter? O2 sensor? If you can borrow a SCT will be great. When it warms up the ECU relies on the engine sensors to keep it running, mainly o2 sensors, not when cold.
Definetely change fuel filter, even more after sitting that long, guess you flushed the tank too? See what happens after...if still the same unplug the 02 sensor (while cold) and start the car see if it runs after warm.
Edit-it will throw a code, need to reset the ECU after.
Unplugging the O2 when cold and start the car until hot, it will give a code but will run on the data the ECU has not from what it reads and trims, so it will run, not as it's suppose to but won't die. Change fuel filter before, while hot or under load is when more fuel is needed
Absolutely not , Your 02 sensor when you start the car starts in open loop , then with time and temps 45 sec to 3.5 Min or above 174 deg then changes to closed loop where it gives a voltage to the ECU to trim the fueling for idle and part throttle , IF the trims exceed 1.250 / .750 for a given amount of time if fails and goes back to open loop so there is no need to disconnect the front o2 sensor
If you disconnect the front o2 it times out the same amount of time as above then fails to open loop
Proper way to test this would be to get a scan tool and see what the front o2 stft1 is doing , the front o2 is a very good diagnostic tool and will give you a lot of information if you use it
The fuel filter bad would be very very rare to have any effect on how the car idles as there is no load or RPM at idle so very little fuel needed
Thought about forcing to maintain the open loop and see if it does not die. Did not considered the trim exceed. Like I mentioned, change the fuel filter before anything else.
So when ahead and changed the fuel filter with a local member..
The car was idling a bit better but then started a slight hesitation... This time it didn't shut down tho... So after 20 min of idle- I took it out to parking lot of my building... When I started accelerating almost at wot- the car choked out and died.
Then it wouldn't turn back on to maintain idle...
We had a predator but it didn't want to communicate...
So we had another scan tool- basic obd2
It tells me my fuel trim is at 40 psi- but my fuel gauge regulator up front tells me 30 psi...
I took a video of the hesitation the other member Kyle is going to upload it soon..
just to add to this while watching it run, it sounded like the engine is starved for gas/air like its not getting the proper mix of one or the other
my first thought after seeing it act up was there is something up with the FPR, injectors or fuel pump then taking the OBDII and having the 10 PSI difference across 2 gauges
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