Focus Fanatics Forum banner

finally starting my journey to 450whp

64K views 686 replies 26 participants last post by  focusmaniaczx3 
#1 ·
EDIT: im editing this to give a quick hopefully short summary of what i want out of this thread. i would like some help finding some things and maybe learn some things.
i would like to locate a billet oil pump gear for high revs like what CFM had. unfortunately CFM no longer sells those. if you have a lead please tell me
cheap vband waste gates around 46mm.
somebody should sponsor me since im going to be at the track alot! that means give me $$$!!!! lol joking?
im getting the borgwarner/bullseye s258 unless you know of something better
i need intake manifold options other than topspeed. i dont like theirs.
what EXACTLY do i need for a return fuel system? cheapest way to do it? i know very little about this other than that it needs to be done.
help me with pick out a clutch. i want to spend under $700 for one to hold 450whp/tq every day and maybe 50-75 dyno pulls ONLY (no track or street) at 600whp during its life. no twin disk unless it can last for at least 25k-30k miles.
teach me about anti-lag. ya know? shooting massive fireballs out the tail pipe and making lots of racket. can it be done with the focus?
help me hook up (traction)
help me locate wheels that look like SVT 5 spokes but are at least 8 inches wide or wider that will fit under rolled/slightly flared fenders without rubbing when turning. a rub when bottoming out the suspension is completely acceptable.

now you can read the rest of the post if you want. i think its funny because i typed it up while jacked up out of my gord on sleeping pills and nyquil and i will ramble horribly when i get on here in that state.


well i always like getting input. i have a thread basically asking how to get to 450whp. i know how now and im going for it and i will be at least part of the way there in about a month or two, God willing. this thread will serve as a bit of a documentary i guess. im going to take lots and lots of before and after pics and ill see if some can maybe get snapped during the process as well. unfortunately i wont be present for the build since this is being done a few states away.

a certain somebody is going to have possession of my car for a little while to fabricate a brand new type of turbo kit for the zetec and duratec focus. in the process he is going to do a complete rebuild for me to get the engine in shape to handle the power. at the very least i will be sitting on between 300 and 330whp when he is done.

the main issue is going to be coming up with all the $$$ i need between now and then. which is why i am now accepting all donations! im just joking about donations unless you just feel compelled to give your money away or you want to sponsor me. i have no problem with putting a few bigass stickers on my car for some help getting this thing done. it WILL be at the track quite a bit..... just saying. anyhow back to serious stuff.

im going to need a bigger turbo than the turbonetics super60 that i currently have which will set me back quite a bit along with a return fuel system. i am also in a fuzz over the intake manifold. sorry but i just dont like topspeed's manifold. they are overpriced and i dont like the idea of a partially plastic manifold under high boost. that being said i know the stock manifold can take over 400whp/tq worth of boost so i might stick with it until/if it busts.

for turbo, i am currently leaning in the direction of the bullseye s256 or s258. or call it a borg warner [eek] unless someone has a cheaper turbo that can make the same power and be as reliable. i still want to crest 600whp on race gas occasionally hence the need/want for such a big one. that might run be around $1300.

im still open to any and all suggestions for what clutch to run. i DO NOT want to spend $1200 for the twin disk clutchmasters unless somebody can prove to me beyond a shadow of a doubt that im going to be able to squeeze at least 25k miles out of it. i know im about to spend a crap ton of money but it doesnt make me any less cheap. i want to get a lot of mileage out of this thing if at all possible. if i can find a $500 ish clutch that will hold 450whp/tq on a day to day basis and MIGHT hold 600ishwhp on a dyno once or twice every few months that would be preferred. for the record i have been known to dream from time to time.

open for input on BOV and WG too. im going to try the greddy type RS BOV and see if it works out for now since i already have it. ill probably buy a precision 46mm vband waste gate unless somebody knows of a vband WG that will do the job for cheaper. im looking at $315 for the WG just FYI.

i have not got a clue in the world what intercooler is being used. i am quite curious about that since unless im mistaken the master fabricator doing all of this wonderfulness is providing it.

the rest is pretty standard stuff. eagle rods, supertech pistons 8:7:1 compression i think with a big overbore to make sure the block is ship shape. i look at it like this. you may say that i shouldnt bore the block out all the way because i wont be able to bore it out any more in the future if it needs to be cleaned up for any reason. well i say that if something happens where i need to get the block cleaned up again then picking up another junk yard block for $100 wont be an issue. ill be using all arp fasteners obviously, stock head unless the machine shop that is going to get my head and block cleaned up can do some P&P and a 3/5 angle for a little extra. the head will get a rebuild, new timing set, water pump, every gasket will get replaced.

unfortunately i will NOT be using the c-f-m oil pump since they dont have any more and i seriously doubt i will stumble across one in the next month. but if somebody somehow has a lead on one of those boogers then for goodness sake please tell me! i want it bad!

i already have a torsen LSD. really wish i would have spent the extra coin at the time and had a quaife installed instead but oh well. we will see if it holds, i plan on running slicks. [shameful]

and speaking of track stuff. anti-lag... anybody have anything to say about that? the whole deal where you stick the car in gear, clutch pedal to the floor, mash the gas pedal to the floor, make lots of racket, shoot flames out the tail pipe, build boost, and then take off like a bat out of hell. whats up with that? can we even do that with a zetec? if so then how? i dont even think i know for sure how its supposed to work.

im also open for suggestions on techniques for hooking up. i think there's going to be lots of spinning in my future but i would at least like to try and cut back on wheel hop if at all possible. what can i do for that?

and this car isnt going to be a super comfy really quick daily driver im afraid. im going to gut it. sorry but i have the SVT to be comfortable in. the only things staying in the interior will be the dash, maybe center console, racing seat for driver, stock seat on the passenger side only for when someone wants a ride along, the radio, 2 front door speakers, and i might even go wild and run a infinity minisub in the back. what? i like my tunes! and any interior braces i can find to stiffen the car up without going to a roll cage unless i can find one that i dont have to climb through to get into the car. ill probably even remove the roof liner.

dont know for sure what wheels and tires im going to run yet but the ugly boogers i have now just aint gonna happen. 17x7 wont help either. what i would REALLY like to do would be to find some 5 spoke SVT wheels to run in back and some 5 spoke 17/16x8 SVT replica wheels with a 40-45 et on radials up front. i found some 16x8 svt cobra replicas but the only offset available is 15 and 25 that i could find and i dont like that look. they need to be tucked. i refuse to have tires bugging out of the fenderwells looking like a [:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)] unless im running slicks at the track. if anyone has a lead on anything like what im looking for please let me know. otherwise i might just run some team dynamics 17x8's or wider if i can get them to fit well if i cant find some SVT 5 spoke style wheels like i want. either way i guess i need to get a front wheel off and take measurements to see what is the absolute widest tire i can run and tuck with some mild fender rolling/flaring without rubbing the shock in the front. im going to need the traction!

as far as appearances go im going to put the car in black primer sometime before i take it down and i may leave it that way. i like flat black. it will either be flat black or factory red. im going to stick with the roush front bumper, cobra style hood, and roush back bumper. i dont know about the wings west side skirts, those might have to go but we will see. im also sticking with the roush top wing. i will never run a mid-wing again though. been there, done that, thought it looked stupid. i may change out headlights and tail lights at some point if i cant stand not fiddling with it in the coming months. it might make me nuts just being "done" with my little zx3. ive always been fiddling with it but after i hit my power goal i dont think there is much of anything else for me to do other than get rid of the MTX for a lentech ATX, get a much bigger turbo and shoot for tom's old drag car record. but that would pretty much turn it into a track only car at that point so i dont know if that will ever happen or not. we will just have to wait and see if guess. only time will tell. i will update as things progress, this should be pretty epic you guys! especially when this thing is done and you see pictures of my car before hand so you can see what i started with, how far it fell, and then how far it came thanks to a guy in alabama. and in case you are wondering i have been mysterious about this man's identity for a reason. i dont know if he is ready to step into the light just yet or not but im sure if he is he will pop in here with a few words after he spends the next month reading this book i just wrote.

and on that note let me finish this epic post with this... i really gotta stop getting on this forum after work in the mornings AFTER downing 2 shots of nyquil and sleeping pills. unfortunately if i didnt do it then i would never have time to get on here. wish me luck gentlemen, the race is on!







[hatchet]
 
See less See more
#2 ·
Good luck is all i can say with the traction issue. Its a battle ive been fighting for some time now. And if you can find a way to get it to hook good luck not breaking that stupid crappy dog bone mount. If you find a way to make it all work and keep things together then please let me know.
 
#4 ·
im not worried about breaking the dogbone mount. if anything im worried about breaking the bracket that goes between it and the trans. ive already busted a few of those with just bolt ons.

and please for goodness sake give me info on the return fuel system. what bits do it need and how do it do it?
 
#6 ·
you can use the stock canister for a single walbro pump. but typically for high numbers like that you MIGHT want to make a dual pump set up. youll need a Y block as well from jegs. plumb the hat with outgoing and return holes. I believe they are -6an fittings but I culd be wrong. and youll need to re wire the top hat for power to the pumps. youll need a fuel pump pressure regulator as well and a different fuel filter
 
#8 ·
thats what i was talking about that Its all crap down there. once you fix that problem then you have to worry about the same crappy material on the tranny case.
 
#9 ·
and for my return setup i just used the evap line that runs under the car back to the tank as my main line then routed my return fuel to that then from that hose back into the tank. works like a char. hardest part was dropping the tank to drill the hole for the return line.
 
#11 ·
way too expensive for an intake manifold that uses plastic components. i explained that in my first post... didnt you read the whole thing? [hihi]
 
#15 ·
i think i could probably figure out HOW to do it but it would be nice to know precisely what all i need. i know i need a big ol fuel pump or pumps, which one? there are lots to choose from. same goes for fuel cells. how do i hang the pumps? what filter do i use? will the fuel cell come with filters and hangers? when people start talking about stuff like this that i have not got the foggiest idea about i literally need a step by step guide (in BABY STEPS!). i wont have a problem running new lines back and forth, that i can handle. where can i get the best combination of cheap and long lasting components? how much line would i need? what fittings? any more specific info on wiring? does this system splice into the factory wiring for factory fuel pump? do i just cut out the stock gas tank and put a fuel cell in the back where the spare tire is supposed to go or can i put the cell where the stock tank is supposed to be? i like having a spare tire just FYI. i would also like to be able to still fill my gas tank up from the stock location instead of having to open my hatch and pumping it in that way. i would do it if i had to or if it would make it a huge pain in the ass to run the filler tube to it but that's just my preference. so yeah lots of questions about this.
 
#16 ·
Easiest way is in the tank. And you won't haveto modify the filler hose. And you'll have trunk space as well. Also you won't find a I'M that doesn't use the lower svt manifold for the runners. They won't break you should have no problems. The cfm couplers with the top speed mani or ask chaz to design the same one for like a hundred bux less. Either way for an aftermarket intake ull needthelower portion. Unless u want the ford racing one
 
#19 ·
Dan... Exactly what turbo are you running? I seem to remember you said it was custom the last time I saw you but I cant remember the specs.
 
#24 ·
Yep and its capable of more. the turbo is good to 32psi im currently at 25psi. And my power is very usable. I hit full boost by 3k and starts to fall off right about when i shift at 6500. It was a mind blowing appifany realizing to tune my turbo to my car and not my car to my turbo, made a big difference. I picked up a lot more power lowering the trim size to coincide with the stock power band of the motor. before my max power was after i shifted at like 7200 now its at about 6300 and falls about 5whp by the time i hit 6500 and shift. And this is all with a journal bearing turbo. I could only imagine what it would be like with a ball bearing turbo.
 
#26 ·
i hated my .63ar 50 trim. it was way to laggy



i would like to see the s256 or s258 used b/c every one else is scared of it or getting away from garrett. i believe precision is a good cheap alternative to. even though the s256 is "only" 1200 bucks.

for the fuel system i had no luck with the stock tank just like tom said. its a pain to use with less than 1/2 tank and impossible with 1/4. once i put a fuel cell in the car ran perfectly from full to slap empty. i am seriously considering building a cell for the focus that can be placed under the car. but i wont be doing that till i have the kits finished.

for the bov the one you have will not prevent you from making power but if you want a big fancy one get you the new tial 50mm

the wg will need to be a 44 vband for my kit besides that it doesnt matter to me what brand. either a precision 46 or a tial 44. the precision is less expensive though.

you could always get you a smaller turbo and spray it up to 600whp lol
 
#27 ·
yeah mines is a comp. and i did have to rebuild it once shortly after i got it. but they took care of it under warranty. and havent had an issue since. I hope it stays that way. maybe one day ill look into a ball bearing turbo about the same size. i have another turbo for my drift car that is by comp when i was sponsored by them and its the same thing except with a billet compressor wheel. Im curious to see what it will do. On a 2.4l is suppose to hit full boost by 2200rpm and last until about 6k which on a drift car will give lots of tq and cut off early so i dont have to rev the nuts off of it and i will get longevity and reliability out of it. it will be interesting to see what it does.
 
#28 ·
hey dan. any chance you could shoot me a link to your turbo or give me a part number or something? im having trouble tracking it down. my search-fu is not very strong im afraid...

and i dont have a problem with the borg/bullseye. ill run it if it looks like its going to work best for me but if that comp turbo dan is running can get me into similar territory i think it will be the clear winner because that thing spools pretty darn quick. and i DO have a nitrous kit still. that could be an option. how much do you think i would pick up spraying nitrous ONTO the intercooler to supercool it? not directly into the intake.
 
#29 ·
spray in the intake or its really just a waste. esp if you already running race gas to make 600.

and i wouldnt call me a master lol. there are plenty much better at making art work than me. my goal is strength and function not looks and colorful stainless
 
#30 ·
What turbo were you running tim? When I was running off straight wg pressure it had a bit of lag . But when I dialed in the ebc the thing woke the hell right up. I've loved the precision turbos I've had. They have garrett internals but are little cheaper. I don't see the point in jumping on the garrett band wagon. That's when I applaud ppl like kokes focus when he built his with a holset
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top