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Old 01-20-2013, 02:35 PM   #31
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Like I said mine is a custom setup. but the comp turbo i have for the drift car is suppose to be the same just with a billet compressor wheel. And i think its a c-2558 turbo. call comp turbo The guys name is Justin. I think the turbo is about 1k for the one i have for the drift car. And About the oil seals zxthrizzle. Just like any journal bearing turbo (and i discovered this the hard way) you have to have an oil restrictor in there to prevent it from flooding it with too much oil. Do it correctly and the turbos are great. Get it wrong and youll blow the seals. journal bearing turbos are a bit sensitive to oil pressures.
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Old 01-20-2013, 02:38 PM   #32
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Keep in mind maniac. My turbo wont get your car to 600whp. if you do the math which my car has been pretty consistent at all the diffent levels. At full boost capabilities of my turbo i would only get to just above 500whp If i got lucky. But like i said in my email to you. I can turn mine up but until i can get mine to hook there is no point.
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Old 01-20-2013, 05:53 PM   #33
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im starting to think awfully hard about just running the slightly smaller turbo and on dyno day making up the difference with nitrous. ive got a kit that ive been trying to sell for a few months with no success and i understand that it would probably be better to spend a little extra on a bigger turbo to get me there and sell the nitrous. HOWEVER now that i think about it let me pose a question.

would it not be better to run a smaller quicker spooling turbo to get me to ONLY 450whp to run on the track and street (which is all i really want and WAY more than i really need or can even use) and then on those rare occasions when i want to turn it up a notch on dyno days just throw a 150 shot of nitrous to it? or hell if i could squeeze over 500whp out of a turbo like dan is running i wouldnt have to run a shot that big. and im sure the engine would be able to take it wouldnt it? and once again i seriously doubt i would EVER run that power level on the track or street unless i did it on the street just to do some rolling freeway burnouts or something stupid like that. and the thing is im not sure if i would even need 600hp to smoke the tires at 80mph. dan what say you on that note? i seem to remember you saying that your car spins tires at 80mph just from punching it in 5th but that may be someone else im thinking of...
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:43 PM   #34
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Here's my return fuel setup

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Old 01-20-2013, 07:58 PM   #35
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yea with my precision journal turbos I run a restrictor for the same reason. some idiot at a local tuning shop kept telling me with journal turbos there is no need for restrictor and I laughed in his face. I run a .065 size
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:03 PM   #36
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:08 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudel View Post
Here's my return fuel setup

Mine is very similar, just have the Y block out of the tank, but yes the OEM line is the return. Good pic!
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:11 PM   #38
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does the fpr allways go after the fuel rail?
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:18 PM   #39
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does the fpr allways go after the fuel rail?
Yes, it regulates pressure from the pump/s to where FPR is (fuel rail in between).
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:21 PM   #40
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my turbo was a garrett 50 trim t3/to4e .63ar 360 journal bearing

i made this return set up how to a long time ago

How To: Return Fuel System

a regulator like the aeromotive has 2 pressure/feed fittings and one return. on that type you could put feed fitting to the pump and the other to the rail and cap the end of the rail and then the return fitting on the bottom of the regulator. but doing it this way is not the best routing and is kinda useless. best way is to feed one side of the rail from pump, then go to the regulator from the other side of the rail, cap the extra feed/pressure port, and then put return on the bottom. this is best for making sure air is not in the rail
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