Focus Fanatics Forum banner

finally starting my journey to 450whp

64K views 686 replies 26 participants last post by  focusmaniaczx3 
#1 ·
EDIT: im editing this to give a quick hopefully short summary of what i want out of this thread. i would like some help finding some things and maybe learn some things.
i would like to locate a billet oil pump gear for high revs like what CFM had. unfortunately CFM no longer sells those. if you have a lead please tell me
cheap vband waste gates around 46mm.
somebody should sponsor me since im going to be at the track alot! that means give me $$$!!!! lol joking?
im getting the borgwarner/bullseye s258 unless you know of something better
i need intake manifold options other than topspeed. i dont like theirs.
what EXACTLY do i need for a return fuel system? cheapest way to do it? i know very little about this other than that it needs to be done.
help me with pick out a clutch. i want to spend under $700 for one to hold 450whp/tq every day and maybe 50-75 dyno pulls ONLY (no track or street) at 600whp during its life. no twin disk unless it can last for at least 25k-30k miles.
teach me about anti-lag. ya know? shooting massive fireballs out the tail pipe and making lots of racket. can it be done with the focus?
help me hook up (traction)
help me locate wheels that look like SVT 5 spokes but are at least 8 inches wide or wider that will fit under rolled/slightly flared fenders without rubbing when turning. a rub when bottoming out the suspension is completely acceptable.

now you can read the rest of the post if you want. i think its funny because i typed it up while jacked up out of my gord on sleeping pills and nyquil and i will ramble horribly when i get on here in that state.


well i always like getting input. i have a thread basically asking how to get to 450whp. i know how now and im going for it and i will be at least part of the way there in about a month or two, God willing. this thread will serve as a bit of a documentary i guess. im going to take lots and lots of before and after pics and ill see if some can maybe get snapped during the process as well. unfortunately i wont be present for the build since this is being done a few states away.

a certain somebody is going to have possession of my car for a little while to fabricate a brand new type of turbo kit for the zetec and duratec focus. in the process he is going to do a complete rebuild for me to get the engine in shape to handle the power. at the very least i will be sitting on between 300 and 330whp when he is done.

the main issue is going to be coming up with all the $$$ i need between now and then. which is why i am now accepting all donations! im just joking about donations unless you just feel compelled to give your money away or you want to sponsor me. i have no problem with putting a few bigass stickers on my car for some help getting this thing done. it WILL be at the track quite a bit..... just saying. anyhow back to serious stuff.

im going to need a bigger turbo than the turbonetics super60 that i currently have which will set me back quite a bit along with a return fuel system. i am also in a fuzz over the intake manifold. sorry but i just dont like topspeed's manifold. they are overpriced and i dont like the idea of a partially plastic manifold under high boost. that being said i know the stock manifold can take over 400whp/tq worth of boost so i might stick with it until/if it busts.

for turbo, i am currently leaning in the direction of the bullseye s256 or s258. or call it a borg warner [eek] unless someone has a cheaper turbo that can make the same power and be as reliable. i still want to crest 600whp on race gas occasionally hence the need/want for such a big one. that might run be around $1300.

im still open to any and all suggestions for what clutch to run. i DO NOT want to spend $1200 for the twin disk clutchmasters unless somebody can prove to me beyond a shadow of a doubt that im going to be able to squeeze at least 25k miles out of it. i know im about to spend a crap ton of money but it doesnt make me any less cheap. i want to get a lot of mileage out of this thing if at all possible. if i can find a $500 ish clutch that will hold 450whp/tq on a day to day basis and MIGHT hold 600ishwhp on a dyno once or twice every few months that would be preferred. for the record i have been known to dream from time to time.

open for input on BOV and WG too. im going to try the greddy type RS BOV and see if it works out for now since i already have it. ill probably buy a precision 46mm vband waste gate unless somebody knows of a vband WG that will do the job for cheaper. im looking at $315 for the WG just FYI.

i have not got a clue in the world what intercooler is being used. i am quite curious about that since unless im mistaken the master fabricator doing all of this wonderfulness is providing it.

the rest is pretty standard stuff. eagle rods, supertech pistons 8:7:1 compression i think with a big overbore to make sure the block is ship shape. i look at it like this. you may say that i shouldnt bore the block out all the way because i wont be able to bore it out any more in the future if it needs to be cleaned up for any reason. well i say that if something happens where i need to get the block cleaned up again then picking up another junk yard block for $100 wont be an issue. ill be using all arp fasteners obviously, stock head unless the machine shop that is going to get my head and block cleaned up can do some P&P and a 3/5 angle for a little extra. the head will get a rebuild, new timing set, water pump, every gasket will get replaced.

unfortunately i will NOT be using the c-f-m oil pump since they dont have any more and i seriously doubt i will stumble across one in the next month. but if somebody somehow has a lead on one of those boogers then for goodness sake please tell me! i want it bad!

i already have a torsen LSD. really wish i would have spent the extra coin at the time and had a quaife installed instead but oh well. we will see if it holds, i plan on running slicks. [shameful]

and speaking of track stuff. anti-lag... anybody have anything to say about that? the whole deal where you stick the car in gear, clutch pedal to the floor, mash the gas pedal to the floor, make lots of racket, shoot flames out the tail pipe, build boost, and then take off like a bat out of hell. whats up with that? can we even do that with a zetec? if so then how? i dont even think i know for sure how its supposed to work.

im also open for suggestions on techniques for hooking up. i think there's going to be lots of spinning in my future but i would at least like to try and cut back on wheel hop if at all possible. what can i do for that?

and this car isnt going to be a super comfy really quick daily driver im afraid. im going to gut it. sorry but i have the SVT to be comfortable in. the only things staying in the interior will be the dash, maybe center console, racing seat for driver, stock seat on the passenger side only for when someone wants a ride along, the radio, 2 front door speakers, and i might even go wild and run a infinity minisub in the back. what? i like my tunes! and any interior braces i can find to stiffen the car up without going to a roll cage unless i can find one that i dont have to climb through to get into the car. ill probably even remove the roof liner.

dont know for sure what wheels and tires im going to run yet but the ugly boogers i have now just aint gonna happen. 17x7 wont help either. what i would REALLY like to do would be to find some 5 spoke SVT wheels to run in back and some 5 spoke 17/16x8 SVT replica wheels with a 40-45 et on radials up front. i found some 16x8 svt cobra replicas but the only offset available is 15 and 25 that i could find and i dont like that look. they need to be tucked. i refuse to have tires bugging out of the fenderwells looking like a [:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)] unless im running slicks at the track. if anyone has a lead on anything like what im looking for please let me know. otherwise i might just run some team dynamics 17x8's or wider if i can get them to fit well if i cant find some SVT 5 spoke style wheels like i want. either way i guess i need to get a front wheel off and take measurements to see what is the absolute widest tire i can run and tuck with some mild fender rolling/flaring without rubbing the shock in the front. im going to need the traction!

as far as appearances go im going to put the car in black primer sometime before i take it down and i may leave it that way. i like flat black. it will either be flat black or factory red. im going to stick with the roush front bumper, cobra style hood, and roush back bumper. i dont know about the wings west side skirts, those might have to go but we will see. im also sticking with the roush top wing. i will never run a mid-wing again though. been there, done that, thought it looked stupid. i may change out headlights and tail lights at some point if i cant stand not fiddling with it in the coming months. it might make me nuts just being "done" with my little zx3. ive always been fiddling with it but after i hit my power goal i dont think there is much of anything else for me to do other than get rid of the MTX for a lentech ATX, get a much bigger turbo and shoot for tom's old drag car record. but that would pretty much turn it into a track only car at that point so i dont know if that will ever happen or not. we will just have to wait and see if guess. only time will tell. i will update as things progress, this should be pretty epic you guys! especially when this thing is done and you see pictures of my car before hand so you can see what i started with, how far it fell, and then how far it came thanks to a guy in alabama. and in case you are wondering i have been mysterious about this man's identity for a reason. i dont know if he is ready to step into the light just yet or not but im sure if he is he will pop in here with a few words after he spends the next month reading this book i just wrote.

and on that note let me finish this epic post with this... i really gotta stop getting on this forum after work in the mornings AFTER downing 2 shots of nyquil and sleeping pills. unfortunately if i didnt do it then i would never have time to get on here. wish me luck gentlemen, the race is on!







[hatchet]
 
See less See more
#550 ·
awesome tim! thanks for the comparison pics, that is what i was going to ask for next lol. loving the ammo can in the background! are you a gun fanatic as well? im personally a fan of the ruskie and austrian designs myself [gunfire]

seriously? troll much? gtfo dude. bring yourself around to the NC area in a few months time and ill put that shitty manifold where the sun dont shine. its going to be a damn sight better and more affordable than any other manifold on the market that keeps all the factory components intact. not to mention that you can run a turbo on this manifold that is big enough to support waaay more HP than ANY other focus on the street and a very good portion of the ones that are track only cars.
please keep the slander to PMs, I will delete any posts if this continues
thanks boss
 
#546 ·
thanks for your professional opinion on the manifold. means a lot coming from some one who just a few months ago was asking about a jgs manifold being interchangeable. lets see your manifold that allows you to keep all these stock components. i could make a huge fancy twin scroll equal length manifold if my goal was to have the customer delete all stock DD components
 
#553 ·
no its 304ss. i was going to run mild steel but it is more expensive than the stainless if that makes any since. i'll post some better pics of the welds later on.

which compressor housing did you get on yours?
 
#552 ·
eehhh maybe a bit... sorry but trolls piss me off. and i could run a turbo big enough to make quite alot of hp on that manifold. maybe not more than any other focus but it would get me right there at it i think
 
#555 ·
Not that you have to post it on here but how was the penetration inside the pipe?

Also how many amps on the flange to pipe?
 
This post has been deleted
#558 ·
Do you have daddy issues? Never was around Christmas morning? Love the bottle more then you? It's okay... Ill be your friend gimmemoreboost.


┓┏ 凵 =╱⊿┌┬┐

-Tardis
 
#560 ·
Aww you're so right! :( I didn't get to go to the fair!

Actually instead of spending $12k for 450fwhp with shitty parts, I'd like to spend $12k and make a 700rwhp monster with good parts that weren't designed in five minutes and look like complete shit. Lol

I wonder how many times I can get banned by all the wannabes on this forum. Hahaha [duh][boxface]
 
#562 ·
i dont mind constructive criticism like jim is trying to give. from an experienced proven fabricator but an opinion that is just pathetic enough to just say it looks like shit is not worth my time. if you dont like it then i wont make you one, ok.

every runner and angle has a reason. when you trying to fit a 3" dp, 1 3/4" dump tube, 3" charge piping, along with all the other factory components. we will see soon enough what it will do on the dyno.

now to jim's questions that are worth my time.

im running 110amp as max on the machine and i have no idea what its running while im welding with the pedal, i just judge by the puddle.

i knife edged all the pieces before i put them together on the final weld. i did a fusion root pass on a couple then a cover pass and a couple with out and decided i was getting plenty of penetration with out the root pass. after welding the out side of the flanges i fusion welded around the inside as well. i'll take you some pics if you want

for my next manifold im stilling thinking about switching to mild steel or switching to tri mix mig for the manifold and just use my tig for aluminum.

Tim
 
#563 · (Edited)
Looks like you can use almost full pedal on the flange if you move a little faster. or do 3/4 pedal and a slower pace. with this much amps you will have to focus the arc more on the flange side but you will be able to get a better looking as well as a better weld. dont be afraid to feed that wire in there since you will be on more amps. I dont do any root passes and get full penetration as well.
 
#568 ·
i think for my final kit im going to building log style manifolds with the same turbo location. it will be a lot easier for me to keep the price down and they will still be able to make plenty of power. i can still make a tubular manifold like this one on request but price will be higher. i'll be ordering the parts to build a log manifold very soon. the plan on the price for the tubular is about 550 and log about 300-350.

im trying to get the cost down enough for me to offer a "byot" kit for 1200

why would you need an adapter to run a gt28?

Tim
 
#574 ·
[clap] wheeee i love pictures! awesome work tim! keep it coming!

funny, the first thought through my head when i saw the new pics was "jesus christ my valve cover looks like shit" lol
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top