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finally starting my journey to 450whp

64K views 686 replies 26 participants last post by  focusmaniaczx3 
#1 ·
EDIT: im editing this to give a quick hopefully short summary of what i want out of this thread. i would like some help finding some things and maybe learn some things.
i would like to locate a billet oil pump gear for high revs like what CFM had. unfortunately CFM no longer sells those. if you have a lead please tell me
cheap vband waste gates around 46mm.
somebody should sponsor me since im going to be at the track alot! that means give me $$$!!!! lol joking?
im getting the borgwarner/bullseye s258 unless you know of something better
i need intake manifold options other than topspeed. i dont like theirs.
what EXACTLY do i need for a return fuel system? cheapest way to do it? i know very little about this other than that it needs to be done.
help me with pick out a clutch. i want to spend under $700 for one to hold 450whp/tq every day and maybe 50-75 dyno pulls ONLY (no track or street) at 600whp during its life. no twin disk unless it can last for at least 25k-30k miles.
teach me about anti-lag. ya know? shooting massive fireballs out the tail pipe and making lots of racket. can it be done with the focus?
help me hook up (traction)
help me locate wheels that look like SVT 5 spokes but are at least 8 inches wide or wider that will fit under rolled/slightly flared fenders without rubbing when turning. a rub when bottoming out the suspension is completely acceptable.

now you can read the rest of the post if you want. i think its funny because i typed it up while jacked up out of my gord on sleeping pills and nyquil and i will ramble horribly when i get on here in that state.


well i always like getting input. i have a thread basically asking how to get to 450whp. i know how now and im going for it and i will be at least part of the way there in about a month or two, God willing. this thread will serve as a bit of a documentary i guess. im going to take lots and lots of before and after pics and ill see if some can maybe get snapped during the process as well. unfortunately i wont be present for the build since this is being done a few states away.

a certain somebody is going to have possession of my car for a little while to fabricate a brand new type of turbo kit for the zetec and duratec focus. in the process he is going to do a complete rebuild for me to get the engine in shape to handle the power. at the very least i will be sitting on between 300 and 330whp when he is done.

the main issue is going to be coming up with all the $$$ i need between now and then. which is why i am now accepting all donations! im just joking about donations unless you just feel compelled to give your money away or you want to sponsor me. i have no problem with putting a few bigass stickers on my car for some help getting this thing done. it WILL be at the track quite a bit..... just saying. anyhow back to serious stuff.

im going to need a bigger turbo than the turbonetics super60 that i currently have which will set me back quite a bit along with a return fuel system. i am also in a fuzz over the intake manifold. sorry but i just dont like topspeed's manifold. they are overpriced and i dont like the idea of a partially plastic manifold under high boost. that being said i know the stock manifold can take over 400whp/tq worth of boost so i might stick with it until/if it busts.

for turbo, i am currently leaning in the direction of the bullseye s256 or s258. or call it a borg warner [eek] unless someone has a cheaper turbo that can make the same power and be as reliable. i still want to crest 600whp on race gas occasionally hence the need/want for such a big one. that might run be around $1300.

im still open to any and all suggestions for what clutch to run. i DO NOT want to spend $1200 for the twin disk clutchmasters unless somebody can prove to me beyond a shadow of a doubt that im going to be able to squeeze at least 25k miles out of it. i know im about to spend a crap ton of money but it doesnt make me any less cheap. i want to get a lot of mileage out of this thing if at all possible. if i can find a $500 ish clutch that will hold 450whp/tq on a day to day basis and MIGHT hold 600ishwhp on a dyno once or twice every few months that would be preferred. for the record i have been known to dream from time to time.

open for input on BOV and WG too. im going to try the greddy type RS BOV and see if it works out for now since i already have it. ill probably buy a precision 46mm vband waste gate unless somebody knows of a vband WG that will do the job for cheaper. im looking at $315 for the WG just FYI.

i have not got a clue in the world what intercooler is being used. i am quite curious about that since unless im mistaken the master fabricator doing all of this wonderfulness is providing it.

the rest is pretty standard stuff. eagle rods, supertech pistons 8:7:1 compression i think with a big overbore to make sure the block is ship shape. i look at it like this. you may say that i shouldnt bore the block out all the way because i wont be able to bore it out any more in the future if it needs to be cleaned up for any reason. well i say that if something happens where i need to get the block cleaned up again then picking up another junk yard block for $100 wont be an issue. ill be using all arp fasteners obviously, stock head unless the machine shop that is going to get my head and block cleaned up can do some P&P and a 3/5 angle for a little extra. the head will get a rebuild, new timing set, water pump, every gasket will get replaced.

unfortunately i will NOT be using the c-f-m oil pump since they dont have any more and i seriously doubt i will stumble across one in the next month. but if somebody somehow has a lead on one of those boogers then for goodness sake please tell me! i want it bad!

i already have a torsen LSD. really wish i would have spent the extra coin at the time and had a quaife installed instead but oh well. we will see if it holds, i plan on running slicks. [shameful]

and speaking of track stuff. anti-lag... anybody have anything to say about that? the whole deal where you stick the car in gear, clutch pedal to the floor, mash the gas pedal to the floor, make lots of racket, shoot flames out the tail pipe, build boost, and then take off like a bat out of hell. whats up with that? can we even do that with a zetec? if so then how? i dont even think i know for sure how its supposed to work.

im also open for suggestions on techniques for hooking up. i think there's going to be lots of spinning in my future but i would at least like to try and cut back on wheel hop if at all possible. what can i do for that?

and this car isnt going to be a super comfy really quick daily driver im afraid. im going to gut it. sorry but i have the SVT to be comfortable in. the only things staying in the interior will be the dash, maybe center console, racing seat for driver, stock seat on the passenger side only for when someone wants a ride along, the radio, 2 front door speakers, and i might even go wild and run a infinity minisub in the back. what? i like my tunes! and any interior braces i can find to stiffen the car up without going to a roll cage unless i can find one that i dont have to climb through to get into the car. ill probably even remove the roof liner.

dont know for sure what wheels and tires im going to run yet but the ugly boogers i have now just aint gonna happen. 17x7 wont help either. what i would REALLY like to do would be to find some 5 spoke SVT wheels to run in back and some 5 spoke 17/16x8 SVT replica wheels with a 40-45 et on radials up front. i found some 16x8 svt cobra replicas but the only offset available is 15 and 25 that i could find and i dont like that look. they need to be tucked. i refuse to have tires bugging out of the fenderwells looking like a [:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)] unless im running slicks at the track. if anyone has a lead on anything like what im looking for please let me know. otherwise i might just run some team dynamics 17x8's or wider if i can get them to fit well if i cant find some SVT 5 spoke style wheels like i want. either way i guess i need to get a front wheel off and take measurements to see what is the absolute widest tire i can run and tuck with some mild fender rolling/flaring without rubbing the shock in the front. im going to need the traction!

as far as appearances go im going to put the car in black primer sometime before i take it down and i may leave it that way. i like flat black. it will either be flat black or factory red. im going to stick with the roush front bumper, cobra style hood, and roush back bumper. i dont know about the wings west side skirts, those might have to go but we will see. im also sticking with the roush top wing. i will never run a mid-wing again though. been there, done that, thought it looked stupid. i may change out headlights and tail lights at some point if i cant stand not fiddling with it in the coming months. it might make me nuts just being "done" with my little zx3. ive always been fiddling with it but after i hit my power goal i dont think there is much of anything else for me to do other than get rid of the MTX for a lentech ATX, get a much bigger turbo and shoot for tom's old drag car record. but that would pretty much turn it into a track only car at that point so i dont know if that will ever happen or not. we will just have to wait and see if guess. only time will tell. i will update as things progress, this should be pretty epic you guys! especially when this thing is done and you see pictures of my car before hand so you can see what i started with, how far it fell, and then how far it came thanks to a guy in alabama. and in case you are wondering i have been mysterious about this man's identity for a reason. i dont know if he is ready to step into the light just yet or not but im sure if he is he will pop in here with a few words after he spends the next month reading this book i just wrote.

and on that note let me finish this epic post with this... i really gotta stop getting on this forum after work in the mornings AFTER downing 2 shots of nyquil and sleeping pills. unfortunately if i didnt do it then i would never have time to get on here. wish me luck gentlemen, the race is on!







[hatchet]
 
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#310 ·
yep, ive been pouring over data on the different turbos for the last hour solid, looking at dyno graphs, comparing spool time, peak boost, price, etc, etc and i think im going to run the borg warner/bullseye s256 SS .55ar. very good price, spools like a BB turbo, and it will get my 450whp goal without breaking a sweat and is probably capable of more. what's your take on that turbo jim? would you run it?
 
#312 ·
i cant wait to build a s256 kit. ive been impressed with what ive seen from them and havent read where any one was disappointed

S256 4 bolt Outlet 74/64 Turbine Wheel 0.55 A/R
Turbocharger Name - S256
Compressor Wheel Inducer - 56mm
Compressor Wheel Exducer - 80mm
Compressor Wheel Trim - 49
Turbine Wheel Inducer - 74mm
Turbine Wheel Exducer - 64mm
Turbine Wheel Trim - 75
Turbine Option - Outlet - 4 bolt
Turbine Option - Inlet - T3
Turbine Option - A/R - 0.55
Horsepower Rating - 300-550

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oVSidl9mOKs
 
#320 ·
Something is up with that comparison graph.

Borg 256 are great turbos i would deff run one. however they are not known for there spool time. but still great turbos. If your looking for one My friend is a dealer for them and will give me them at cost. if you want one shoot me a pm
 
#322 ·
umm hell yes! im between two right now. the S256 and the B252. they are both rated at the same power level, the 252 is smaller and much faster spooling and $250 more direct from bullseye. just trying to decide whether its worth the extra coin. and the 252 has a 6 bladed wheel instead of the 7 from the 256 which means they can make the blades a bit thicker and stronger.

B252 BatMoWheel turbocharger:
4 bolt Outlet 74/64 Turbine Wheel 0.55 A/R
Turbocharger Name - B252
Compressor Wheel Inducer - 52mm BatMoWheel 6 bladed wheel
Compressor Wheel Exducer - 70mm
Compressor Wheel Trim - 49
Turbine Wheel Inducer - 74mm
Turbine Wheel Exducer - 64mm
Turbine Wheel Trim - 75
Turbine Option - Outlet - 4 bolt
Turbine Option - Inlet - T3
Turbine Option - A/R - 0.55
Horsepower Rating - 300-550

S256 4 bolt Outlet 74/64 Turbine Wheel 0.55 A/R
Turbocharger Name - S256
Compressor Wheel Inducer - 56mm
Compressor Wheel Exducer - 80mm
Compressor Wheel Trim - 49
Turbine Wheel Inducer - 74mm
Turbine Wheel Exducer - 64mm
Turbine Wheel Trim - 75
Turbine Option - Outlet - 4 bolt
Turbine Option - Inlet - T3
Turbine Option - A/R - 0.55
Horsepower Rating - 300-550

decisions decisions decisions...
 
#324 ·
the dyno comparison was a built 2.5l sti engine. and the s256 used was a .55ar exhaust housing. the dynos with the s256 on the sti with a .70ar look much different.

batmowheels look awesome but i havent seen much from them yet. but i would glad to use which ever you want on the build. just try to get it with a t3 foot print

Tim
 
#325 ·
LOL the batmowheel was the biggest GIMMICK it was junk it flowed less then a standard cast wheel you guys need to do your research. BW put the hole design on the flow bench, then burst test, then aero ill find the results after the track tonight.

edit: sorry not meaning to sound like a dick
 
#327 ·
Bw made a batmowheel for the stock turbo srt4, beside intake exhaust, intercooler and tune a before and after test was done. Batmowheel made 40whp just by swapping the intake turbines wheels and of course a new tune, that wasn't maxed out either. The tuner ran out of fuel. Yeah that's complete waste to me....not. This test was done 2 months ago.
 
#330 ·
they flow less then the cast standard borg wheel. were not talking about the stock SRT wheel. stock srt wheel is crappy so yes the batmowheel will flow more but when compared to a BW wheel it flows less. Do you understand? your comparing apples to oranges.
 
#331 ·
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z17/dmscrx/CastVSBat18psi_zps24603d3f.jpg

thats a honda cast vs bat. not a lot of gain but still a gain not a loss. im not defending them or any thing i would like to know to. i still like the s series for the price and performance combo but thats just me

they show gain on stock cummins and duramax but like jim said i hope they out flow the stock one... lol

Tim
 
#332 ·
I just go off of hard fact Aero, flow, and AR difference. dyno = diff day, diff weather, anything added or takin away etc. its just what I've seen i would not run a BATmo over a standard cast.
 
#334 ·
bw is a parent company. bullseye takes borg warner turbo and puts different housings on them. you can get a s256 from bw but you cant get one with the .55ar housing from them. you have to get that from bullseye.

i wouldnt waist my money on the batmowheel either. even if they do have a gain over the bw wheel i doubt it would enough for the price or even noticeable on the street

that test was dont back to back on that honda with the cast vs bat

here is the comp map from the bw cast vs bep bat

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h344/fbodyjunkie06/batmovsborg.jpg
 
#336 ·
i dont think any one will argue that either bullseye is a bad turbo. the only argument is that its not worth the price difference between the bat and the original borg warner wheel
 
#338 ·
Jim if you can get a true blue borg with these specs I will take it. Its what I settled on before the billet bat distracted me and its what I want to run.

S256 4 bolt Outlet 74/64 Turbine Wheel 0.55 A/R
Turbocharger Name - S256
Compressor Wheel Inducer - 56mm
Compressor Wheel Exducer - 80mm
Compressor Wheel Trim - 49
Turbine Wheel Inducer - 74mm
Turbine Wheel Exducer - 64mm
Turbine Wheel Trim - 75
Turbine Option - Outlet - 4 bolt
Turbine Option - Inlet - T3
Turbine Option - A/R - 0.55
Horsepower Rating - 300-550
 
#341 ·
This is the Borgwarner 200sx-56

Rated at 220 to 600HP
Compressor flow is rated at over 60lb/min

Wheel Dimensions:
Compressor: 56mm inducer / 69.6mm exducer, with exclusive Extended Tip Technology.
Turbine: 69.6mm inducer / 61.5mm exducer. Cast in Inconel 713 for high-temperature operation.

Housings:

Compressor: 3.00" air inlet / 2.00" charge pipe outlet
Turbine: T3 .55, .70 ,

I wouldnt run anything smaller then a .70 AR
 
#342 ·
why not run smaller than a .70? its been proven time and again that the .55ar works very will on the 200 series. it doesnt peak as high but spools a couple thousand rpm faster. that dyno i posted was a built 2.5l with a .55ar s256. if it can maintain power that good on an engine like that then it will have no problem maintaining it better on the zetec
 
#343 ·
The .55 will end up choking out the exhaust side before its ready to give up. You guys should know im all about making the most power possible. thats why i wouldnt put a exhaust housing on it that will end up limiting the turbo. and a .55 to a .70 will not make a couple thousand rpm spool difference. your looking at a 100 to 300 rpm in spool.
 
#344 ·
i'll find the dyno graphs im talking about. both have been tried on the sti and the .55 vs .70 housing makes a huge difference in spool. you can tell in the dyno that i posted that it does choke down the sti up top having the .55 on a 2.5l. but the turbo will max out at around 550whp and he is only shooting for 450whp and fastest spool possible. that is why i think he will be more happy with the .55 vs the .70. if he wanted the most power possible out of the turbo and race gas then hell yeah i would say get the .70
 
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