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sporadic's Turbo Duratec build #2

28K views 88 replies 20 participants last post by  sutyak 
#1 · (Edited)
Original build from 7/24/2007 is here: sporadic's Turbo Duratec build thread

This second build is going to stretch into 2013 and will be broken down into phases. Since I will be the one tuning it this will greatly simplify the adjustments I have to make.

Phases
1) Swap out the IHI/16T hybrid turbo for a GT2871r (Target: June 2012)
This will involve welding in a wastegate flange for an external wastegate, the dump tube, and a few inches of new downpipe. The turbine outlet is a 2.5" v-band flange, which will immediately open to a 3" downpipe. Tune for the 8psi wastegate spring. No boost adjustment yet.

2) Cossie knock-off intake manifold. (Target: July/August 2012)
This involves moving the power steering reservoir and re-routing some lines. I may do a detailed write-up of this if I have time. Adjust tune. May add boost controller and go to 10psi if logs look OK.

3) Built motor (2013)
There are still many variables here to account for. The only part I have in hand at the moment is a set of 88mm 10.1:1 Supertech pistons. These were used in a 2.3 build for a few thousand miles, and started life closer to 10.6:1 and were professionally milled to a lower compression.
The current plan is to use the stock 2.0 head and cams, but that could change.

My original goal was ~400whp, but instead of jumping ahead I think I'm going to shoot for ~300whp and leave some room for future fuel system upgrades for a phase 4. Basically I'll push it until I nearly max out the stock fuel system.
I considered lower compression pistons, but I decided I'd rather run the slightly higher compression to start with and if I want to go lower I'll use a thicker had gasket. If I started with lower compression and wanted to go higher it will cost much more to mill the head vs. buying a thicker head gasket.

This build will not be real-time like my first one (I have 2 kids now), but I will provide photos and write-ups once phases are complete.

NOTE: This is not now nor will ever be a dyno queen. I will post dyno results if I happen to go with a group for a dyno day. Please don't skip around this thread and expect to find a dyno sheet. This isn't that kind of build. I'm far more likely to provide datalog information and 1/4 mile track times than dyno charts.

Parts list (on shelf)
GT2871R turbo (T3, 63ar, 2.5" v-band out)
Tial 38mm wastegate & dump tube piping
T3 Log manifold from build #1
55lb injectors
Cossie knock-off intake manifold

Parts list (Still to purchase. PM me if you have and want to sell.)
2.0 Connecting rods (leaning towards K1)
Rod bearings
Head gasket (can't decide between Fel-Pro or Cometic and also thickness)
Bottom end gasket kit
Top end gasket kit
Torsen LSD
Clutch (Exedy Hyper Single or maybe even the Clutchmasters FX700)
MAFia for 2005+ Ford (had one, went to 3" MAF so I sold it. Now I think I'll need one again)
60lb injectors
Drag wheels + slicks
Boost controller (might go with electronic)
Larger intercooler

Parts credit (I'll had to this for any person/company who cuts me a deal on parts)
- Top Speed for 38mm Tial wastegate ($150 lightly used was a good deal)
- Tantalus for pistons
- koke'sfocus for intake manifold
- afraziaaaa for ARP fasteners and gasket kit

Pictures







I'm more of a Coke Zero guy, but for some reason there are Pepsi cans around when I take pictures. [confused]


I figure this might help some people if they are considering the GT2871r.
If my calculations are correct my Phase 1 at 8psi will be peak at the intersection of 1.7 Pr and 27.7 lbs/min at 7K RPM. I can't wait to run it at 20+psi/2.7Pr and let it ride that island to 45lbs/min! [strongman] I'm fairly certain that will require a return-style fuel system.
These are just estimates. I'd have to do some data logging to map out real-world results. I might do just that. Mapping the lb/min and RPM from the datalog on the compressor map should be very helpful. I did that with the IHI but didn't post it.


-3AN .035 oil restrictor


Compressor outlet adapter. These are surprisingly expensive at $40 from ATP Turbo.
 
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#72 ·
Finally time for an update. I had quite the tuning issue where the PCM wasn't providing fuel after installing the new intake manifold. See solution here: Adjusting tune for aftermarket Duratec IM

All is well now and the car screams again. Tom pointed out that my timing was way too low, and it was so that certainly woke the car up. I don't recall why I had my timing jacked so low but that's fixed.

I installed a Cossie knock-off intake manifold. I would ONLY recommend these to someone willing to do some clean-up work with a die grinder. The horns for the intake runners were a mess and there were bits of aluminum that needed removed for fear of them coming off and being sucked into the engine. Also, save yourself some hassle and do not buy one of these manifolds that someone painted already. What a pain that was.
Overall I do like the manifold. Nothing lost down-low on my 2.0 and wakes it up more up-top. What I do not like is the MAJOR heat-soak this thing gets from the head. On a 70* day the intake temps will be around 90-100* while driving. After sitting at idle the temps will climb to 140-150*!! A future project is making an intake spacer, probably just out of silicone.

I also installed a methanol injection kit with a 2gph nozzle. I have it set to come on about 6psi. Max boost right now is 11psi. Intake temps drop almost 30* after it kicks in, and the AFR drops a solid point. I am not running any additional timing. The mix is approximately 50/50 water/meth mixing 1 gallon of -20* PEAK brand washer fluid with 4 bottles of HEET.

At the same time I swapped out the 55# injectors for some 60# to have some head room for the future build.


Intake manifold details:
- The oil dip stick will have to be bent
- The bottom bolts will be a royal pain to get in
- The IAC has to be mounted upside-down in relation to stock
- The IAC bolt nearest to the throttle body will need ground down so the throttle body does not hit it while opening
- When adjusting the tune, see link above. I did not disable the IMRC in the tune.
- The brake booster fitting doesn't fit. Remove it, go to the hardware store and buy the necessary fittings for a 3/8" line. Sorry I don't know the thread size. I already had it.
- Expect a lot of cleaning up on the inside of the Cossie knock-off. Sorry no before and after pictures
- You will lose cruise control because the cruise control clip will come in contact with the IAC bolt. I'm still working on a solution.
- For a 2.0 it does require the older style power steering pump and reservoir
- Trim and reuse the 1/8" fuel pressure sensor hose. Also use a properly sized 1/4 NPT with 1/8" outlet. The FPS seemed a bit sensitive while tuning. I used a smaller diameter hose initially which messed with the pressure readings.
- Expect the throttle bracket to not fit exactly right on the knock-off brand

The IAC bolt that needs ground down. (this is after grinding and it barely clears)


Manifold installed. I put an IAT sensor in the removable panel


Bottom view. PCV plugged. WMI nozzle installed.


IAT sensor grommet installed. I did not use that brake booster fitting in the photo. I also swapped out that little vac nipple for larger one for the FPS


View of where the WMI nozzle sprays into the manifold. It is directly after the throttle body. Note: this requires a one-way check valve in the WMI line.


Hood clearance of IAT sensor, for those who are curious


WMI tank and pump


After panel replaced and stickers applied :)




Hoses run out a pre-existing vent in the hatch


Hood clearance for power steering reservoir


Vac block all hooked up


That's all the progress to report for now. I doubt there will be anything else major going on in 2012. I've worked on it so much that I just want to drive it now.
I do have some cheapy seats that I may put in this year. (they were free)
 
#73 ·
Nice. Glad to see you were able to get the tuning issues solved. Agreed, those bottom bolts were a major pain. I bought all new hardware for the one I got. Hex bolts helped me out a lot. I got as much stuff out of the way as possible. The bottom middle was the worst for me. Love the wmi, nice job on the install. Look forward to seeing your future progress.


Sent from my LG-P925 using Tapatalk 2
 
#74 ·
More recent photos:



Brake booster. I also installed a 3/8" check valve that is not pictured.


And finally my "beta" solution to the cruise control, since I'll be taking a 5-hour trip this weekend:
 
#78 ·
Checking in to see how the builds going?
Nothing going on at the moment. I still need to work on an insulator between the head and manifold, and also wrap the back and underside in reflective heat tape.

I did get a code thrown from removing the IMRC and leaving the flag set to o"1" in the tune. Out of frustration I just removed the IMRC from the stock intake and wired it up! I was in a rush and driving over 300 miles on-way so that's where it sits now. I have a couple lean spots in the tune, but none in WOT.
Right now it is set at 10-11psi, overall running fine and the meth injection is also fine. I need to get my slicks mounted and try to hit the track once this year before they close.

I have no more build plans for 2012 other than gathering parts for 2013. I still need rods, bearings, clutch/flywheel and diff. I'll play with the tune a bit more but that's all.

I do have a full set of poly suspension bushings I need to install at some point. I just hate messing with the pos rusted bolts on the rear suspension.
 
#80 ·
I just got the garolite but I haven't had the time to put it on on Wednesday for sure I'm making it Ill let everyone know what's the outcome
 
#81 ·
It's been a few months, so I figure I'll share my non-progress. I haven't touched the car in a few months. It runs very well except I'm still fighting the IMRC delete issues. My solution of physically removing the IMRC but leaving the flag set to "1" (enabled) in the computer eventually threw a code saying the IMRC wasn't functioning, and my tune went to crap again.
To get around that issue, the IMRC is wired/hosed in, just not actually attached to the IM. So far I'm wishing I would have not gone with that Cossie style manifold. Overall though I'm quite happy with the build.
I'm not sure 2013 will result in a built motor at the moment. Instead I'm looking to put money into the house instead of the car.
 
#86 ·
Installation was a huge pain. It's a heat-soak nightmare and I've had nothing but trouble trying to tune it without an IMRC. I do have it tuned, but only by having that IMRC wired in and not connected to the IM. I do feel it flows much better, and I like the delivery of the water/meth I set up.
At any rate, it's on now and I'll work around the issues. I have some 1/8" sheet silicone to try and make a gasket/spacer to keep down the heat. I also have a bunch of reflective heat tape to help.
 
#88 ·
That would have been me. Thank for the input! I can see you're going to be a valuable asset to this forum. [bootyshake]
 
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