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Old 09-19-2010, 07:50 PM   #1
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BOV going out?

What are symptoms of a BOV going out. I just started noticing that it isn't opening at lower boost levels (3-4) Psi... Is this normal or should I start looking at buying a new BOV.


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Old 09-19-2010, 08:39 PM   #2
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What brand do you have? If you have any doubts, I'd just get a Greddy knock-off from eBay for $35 shipped. Many many people use them and haven't had any problems.
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:59 PM   #3
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What brand do you have? If you have any doubts, I'd just get a Greddy knock-off from eBay for $35 shipped. Many many people use them and haven't had any problems.
I have a HKS knock-off from eBay. Its been awesome. Just not sure now.... Does the Greedy use the same style flange as the HKS?
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Old 09-19-2010, 09:59 PM   #4
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Nope. Entirely different. Since an eBay knockoff isn't going to have a warranty, I might just get another HKS knockoff or you could open it up and see if there is anything that is jamming up and is fixable.
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Old 09-19-2010, 10:43 PM   #5
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First, understand that bov do not work off of boost. They work of a mix vaccum (to suck open) and the pressure on the opposite side to help move the valve. The sudden change on atmospheric pressures on both sides of the valve cause it to open.Theres little to no difference between 20psi or 1psi on the bottom side of the valve. Because its opening on higher pressures and not lower pressures, makes me believe the vaccum side of the bov is losing its "suck" or kpa somewhere.

Now with that said, I would look for a vac leak or blown seal somewhere on the bov.

Boost leak and some soapy spray water will suffice. Also fixing boost leaks will net you some serious whp improvement. Stock srt-4 neons, along with several other modern fractory turbo cars are known to gain 20+ whp just by doing a boost leak test.

What size is your inlet on your turbo? I can help you make a boost leak tester if you wish.

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Old 09-20-2010, 10:13 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by inis View Post
First, understand that bov do not work off of boost. They work of a mix vaccum (to suck open) and the pressure on the opposite side to help move the valve. The sudden change on atmospheric pressures on both sides of the valve cause it to open.Theres little to no difference between 20psi or 1psi on the bottom side of the valve. Because its opening on higher pressures and not lower pressures, makes me believe the vaccum side of the bov is losing its "suck" or kpa somewhere.

Now with that said, I would look for a vac leak or blown seal somewhere on the bov.

Boost leak and some soapy spray water will suffice. Also fixing boost leaks will net you some serious whp improvement. Stock srt-4 neons, along with several other modern fractory turbo cars are known to gain 20+ whp just by doing a boost leak test.

What size is your inlet on your turbo? I can help you make a boost leak tester if you wish.

-Inis

Okay... I'm going to pick up a new piece of line that feeds(pulls) the BOV. It's been on there since I did my first build. It may be leaking there.... Though on my gauge i'm pulling as much as 23lbs of vac at idle. So i doubt that i have a vac. leak.... I'm pretty sure the inlet is a 2.5. Though I can't remember if that is ID or OD. I'll take a look at it tonight after I get off work... Thanks man.
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Old 09-21-2010, 12:49 AM   #7
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soap and a boost leak test are really the best way. Thats how we (my site kctuners.com) found out synapse bov's are POS's. One of our guys bought one, got it.. leaked all kinds of strange places. We tried fixing most of them with no luck. Called them directly they sent out a revised bov, it leaked everywhere the other one was fine! Both had no less then 3 leaks..and good ones at that. Theres a video in my gallery of it.

Tial is really the way to go.
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