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Old 05-02-2010, 06:42 PM   #1
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Race build and need new crankshaft

Broke mine last time on track, oil pump failure

I am going with the high perf oil pump with billet gears this time (long story) but now I also need a crankshaft.


Here is what I have so far in the first build.


JE Pistons, Eagle rods, ARP Studs, Cometic gasket

We are doing another complete rebuild and I need some help..


Will a stock SVT crankshaft stand up to heavy track use? This is about all the focus will see from now on...open course road race application...


If not, what other options do have for a crankshaft??


Now let's talk head gaskets, the Cometic one was starting to show signs of getting ready to do something bad...

The tune is rich and safe....are you boosted guys doing anything different that I should know about?

Thanks so much for all the help in advance, I first blew up the stock motor last April and I have been fighting with it since.

SO, 3 things I need to know.

1. How to stop blowing oil and filling the catch can.

2. Crankshaft options for racing?

3. Any head gasket tricks for boosted motors?



Ken


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Old 05-02-2010, 10:18 PM   #2
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If you are blowing oil and filling the catch can, something is not right.

The stock SVT crank is all you would need for your application.

No tricks on the head gasket, OEM is usually the best choice.

Also your tune being rich is not safe, get it tuned properly.
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Old 05-03-2010, 01:15 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Focus_3XZ View Post
If you are blowing oil and filling the catch can, something is not right.

The stock SVT crank is all you would need for your application.

No tricks on the head gasket, OEM is usually the best choice.

Also your tune being rich is not safe, get it tuned properly.

Thanks for the reply.

Do you OPEN TRACK your car?

Tune is done properly, I should have just said it errors on the side of rich vs. lean.


I am trying to find guys that put their car through the same drill as I put mine to find out if they are using stock parts or aftermarket stuff.


Thanks again,


Ken

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Old 05-03-2010, 02:37 PM   #4
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How high do you rev the car?? What weight oil do you run?

You didn't mention it above but I can only assume you have an Under Drive Pulley.

I've never seen a zetec without one blow the oil pump gears.

Ditch it upon your rebuild.


Also with MLS head gaskets, most machine shops do not have the needed equipment to properly resurface heads and blocks to achieve the required R/A (roughness average)for the mls gaskets to seal properly. The head can be resurfaced and it will not seal right with an mls gasket if it wasn't done properly. Check with cometic about the recomended R/A and ask your machinest if they can get it into those specs and make sure they know it uses an MLS gasket.


The other option is to add coating to the gasket. They make head gasket sealer spray which is pretty much for copper gaskets but works awesome on MLS gaskets. I do this on every MLS gasket I use regardless of the machine work. It makes sure you have a perfect seal.

The other trick is to use a wire wheel and clean the coating off the nuts washer and threads of the head studs. This makes sure you get proper torque that won't change after a few engine heat cycles and require a re-torque.

Also If the bearing ends of the rods look like they got hot, do not use the rods again.
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Old 05-03-2010, 04:27 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pzev04boy View Post
How high do you rev the car?? What weight oil do you run?

You didn't mention it above but I can only assume you have an Under Drive Pulley.

I've never seen a zetec without one blow the oil pump gears.

Ditch it upon your rebuild.


Also with MLS head gaskets, most machine shops do not have the needed equipment to properly resurface heads and blocks to achieve the required R/A (roughness average)for the mls gaskets to seal properly. The head can be resurfaced and it will not seal right with an mls gasket if it wasn't done properly. Check with cometic about the recomended R/A and ask your machinest if they can get it into those specs and make sure they know it uses an MLS gasket.


The other option is to add coating to the gasket. They make head gasket sealer spray which is pretty much for copper gaskets but works awesome on MLS gaskets. I do this on every MLS gasket I use regardless of the machine work. It makes sure you have a perfect seal.

The other trick is to use a wire wheel and clean the coating off the nuts washer and threads of the head studs. This makes sure you get proper torque that won't change after a few engine heat cycles and require a re-torque.

Also If the bearing ends of the rods look like they got hot, do not use the rods again.


Great info and thanks!!
I am running a procharger with an overdrive pully 5.7 I think...

Running 13psi, revving to around 7500 rpm on occasion, shift light set at 7100.
Running 5w-30 oil

Any pointers you can give me with this project will be greatly appreciated. I am using a machine shop that builds race motors and has the tools needed to do...

Should we go back to stock head gasket or stay with cometic? Looking at around 300HP when all said and done and I just want it to stay together so I can finish some track sessions.

Thanks again for all the help!!

Ken

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Old 05-03-2010, 04:40 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kens03cobra View Post
Great info and thanks!!
I am running a procharger with an overdrive pully 5.7 I think...

Running 13psi, revving to around 7500 rpm on occasion, shift light set at 7100.
Running 5w-30 oil

Any pointers you can give me with this project will be greatly appreciated. I am using a machine shop that builds race motors and has the tools needed to do...

Should we go back to stock head gasket or stay with cometic? Looking at around 300HP when all said and done and I just want it to stay together so I can finish some track sessions.

Thanks again for all the help!!

Ken



The overdrive pulley caused the failure of the oil pump. It is just the same as an underdrive in that it gets rid of the harmonic damper.

Billet gears hold up much better than stock but I've seen them fail too.



RPM & or thicker oil than stock can also play a factor in oil pump gear failure. 4.6 mustangs use a similar pump as the focus and those guys break them with udp's too.

As stated very very very very few machine shops have the proper surfacing equipment to do heads and blocks right for mls gaskets. Use some head gasket sealer on either a stock or a cometic and you will be fine.
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Old 05-03-2010, 04:50 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pzev04boy View Post
The overdrive pulley caused the failure of the oil pump. It is just the same as an underdrive in that it gets rid of the harmonic damper.

Billet gears hold up much better than stock but I've seen them fail too.



RPM & or thicker oil than stock can also play a factor in oil pump gear failure. 4.6 mustangs use a similar pump as the focus and those guys break them with udp's too.

As stated very very very very few machine shops have the proper surfacing equipment to do heads and blocks right for mls gaskets. Use some head gasket sealer on either a stock or a cometic and you will be fine.

Should I ditch the overdrive pulley for the rebuild?
Not using thicker oil, using stock weight.

Thanks again for your help..

Ken
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Old 05-03-2010, 05:04 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kens03cobra View Post
Should I ditch the overdrive pulley for the rebuild?
Not using thicker oil, using stock weight.

Thanks again for your help..

Ken
IIRC the car in england that broke the billet gears was running 8600 rpms.

The problem is with no damper on the end of the crank you have a lot of bad harmonics. The oil pump gear takes all of the abuse.

I'd say save the money on the gears, call up power bond or pro race and tell them you need a 5.7" pulley made up. They make zetec stuff already and should be able to custom make a over drive. The question is how much though.
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Old 05-03-2010, 05:14 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pzev04boy View Post
IIRC the car in england that broke the billet gears was running 8600 rpms.

The problem is with no damper on the end of the crank you have a lot of bad harmonics. The oil pump gear takes all of the abuse.

I'd say save the money on the gears, call up power bond or pro race and tell them you need a 5.7" pulley made up. They make zetec stuff already and should be able to custom make a over drive. The question is how much though.
Let me see if I understand you correctly...

I could use the stock oil pump setup with a different 5.7 pulley???

I want this to be bullet proof as much as possible...the billet pumps are out of stock at this time anyhow..

How is the power bond or pro race pulley diff from the CFM one I was using?


Appreciate the help..

Ken
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Old 05-03-2010, 05:21 PM   #10
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The factory crank pulley is a damper. It has a rubber ring between the hub and the outer drive part. This cancels out a lot of the crank / engine harmonics. The aftermarket pullies that are commonly offered do not have any dampning abbilities at all. They are made this way because it is cheaper and easier to do so.
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