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Old 09-24-2009, 06:59 PM   #1
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compression test

Wondering what everyone is running on there built engines.

I'm running around 150 on all 4 cylinders (very even) , total seal top ring (special order) , probe pistons , svt head gasket w/ a non-decked FR head.

I also did a leak down test and got less then 10% on all 4 cylinders.

Main reason I did all of this is because I'm leaking oil into the ports (causing the running motor to smoke) , I've narrowed it down to what I think is the valve seals.


Weird thing is the FR head I got, had "fixed" stamped into it, the valves did not seal properly at all when I got it, so they we're hand lapped...every single one of them. Now I have this issue too. Ford Racing's 1800# had no answers for me at all.

I'm guessing these are decent compression test numbers.

I also did a srt4 today, OEM engine. Did 120 across the board, they are 8.5:1 stock. The motor has 80k on it. Guess thats the difference between OEM and a built motor?

-inis


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Old 09-24-2009, 07:02 PM   #2
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Well if the cylinders have good compression and the leakdown test checked out, then yeah your next bet would be the valve stem seals leaking. If they weren't careful and clean while lapping the valves, you also could have gotten some of that grit in with the valve guides which would put excessive wear on them and quite possibly the seals as well.
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Old 09-24-2009, 07:08 PM   #3
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I had a well known (to the zx2 community) guy do the head for me. He had hand pnp it (to get rid of the cnc marks) and went over everything. I've had this issue since start up. Its really strange.

The guides are accessable from the top? I assume to change these the head does have to come off. I can check them by wiggling (or trying) to wiggle the valve?


I'm tempted to change the valve seals by not removing the head. My builder suggest trying it, by using the leak down tester to help hold the valves in. I can make a jig to press the springs. We tried one valve today and was successful. Only issue we had was dropping the collets, but thats no biggie with some needle nose.

I've had some back issues recently , and being the engine bay is so full..this sounds like a great thing to try. Worse come to worse I drop a valve and pull it apart anyways.

Also does anyone know if the FR head uses new or old styel valve seals?
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Old 09-24-2009, 07:13 PM   #4
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Yeah you can definately do the valve seals with the head on. Sounds like you already have the hang of it. I never liked using air pressure to hold the valves though. Instead I feed a small rope into the cylinder via spark plug hole and coil it around on top of the piston while its on the bottom of the intake stroke. Then I raise it to TDC compression and teh valves are held nice and tight by the soft rope.

If you are replacing the valve seals, I would buy the nice umbrella type.

The valve guides are usually pressed in and will require the removal of the head from the motor.
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Old 09-24-2009, 07:19 PM   #5
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Yeah you can definately do the valve seals with the head on. Sounds like you already have the hang of it. I never liked using air pressure to hold the valves though. Instead I feed a small rope into the cylinder via spark plug hole and coil it around on top of the piston while its on the bottom of the intake stroke. Then I raise it to TDC compression and teh valves are held nice and tight by the soft rope.

If you are replacing the valve seals, I would buy the nice umbrella type.

The valve guides are usually pressed in and will require the removal of the head from the motor.
I've heard of the rope trick as well. I heard also of stuffing the port with soft rope. I actaully might try your trick, sounds better then having something in the spark plug hole the entire time. Rope is cheap too.

I ordered some fel-pro seals today, they looked like this in the pic:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...k/100d4059.jpg
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Old 09-24-2009, 07:21 PM   #6
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Fel-pro makes some good stuff. I am sure it will be fine.

And yeah if you can wiggle any of the valves side to side in their guides, the guide needs replacing. Ideally you should setup a dial indicator to measure just how much play there is but definately if you can move it with your fingers and you can feel it, its bad.
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Old 09-24-2009, 07:25 PM   #7
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Fel-pro makes some good stuff. I am sure it will be fine.

And yeah if you can wiggle any of the valves side to side in their guides, the guide needs replacing. Ideally you should setup a dial indicator to measure just how much play there is but definately if you can move it with your fingers and you can feel it, its bad.
this build has turned into a blast (sarcasim) , if I have to remove the head, I'll get everything coated like the pistons, rods and bearings. I wish I would of done it before the assembly but started getting a rush on things (well sorta pending the entire build took 14 months start to finish) ..at the point of putting the head on, I was just ready to throw the engine in the car and get a move on.
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Old 09-24-2009, 07:30 PM   #8
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Just do it carefully if your pulling the head. Drain the coolant and oil first and just go slow. From the sounds of it you already have the cams and timing belt off so the rest if pie. Just take off the exhaust and intake manifolds (intake doesn't techincally have to be removed) and then just loosen the head bolts in the correct order and it'll come of presto! lol. Then you can cover the bottom end with a clean towel or something to keep it all clean in there.
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Old 09-24-2009, 07:32 PM   #9
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For start up, I just ran distilled water. I know I'm cheap haha. Also I'm dry sumped, all the oil is seperate from the engine. No need to drain it.

If my back wasn't so jacked up, I would do this all tonight. I've never had back issues before and I can barely walk..something is seriously wrong.

Build thread: My new rods/pistons (zetec)
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Old 09-24-2009, 07:33 PM   #10
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Well that certainly puts a damper on things. Hope you feel better get the car running well again.
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